Replacing Rotors

[kkat]

I have a pulse in my brakes and it was diagnosed as warped rotors. I bought new pads & rotors but only replaced the pads as the rotors seemed to be more of a project. Can anyone please tell me what I have to do to get the rotors off?
Thanks
Ken

[warmonger]

2WD or 4WD?

[kkat]

Originally Posted by warmonger

2WD or 4WD?

4WD, sorry about that

[warmonger]

Remove wheels. Remove caliper at caliper frame, not the caliper itself. I seem to recall the caliper frame bolts being 22 or 23 mm. Zip tie caliper to keep brake line hanging loose. DO NOT let the caliper and frame assy hang by the brake line!!! Remove front hubs. (Method depends on whether they are factory autolockers or after-market manuals.) There will be a snap ring that will have to be removed depending on which hub you use as to where it is located. Remove two phillips head screws from lock washer. Remove nut from hub. Aussie has a place that has a socket for loosening and tightening that nut to specs. Slide rotor off spindle. While it is off it is a good idea to repack your wheel bearings and replace the rear rotor seals. There are 6 bolts holding the hub to the rotor. You may have to use penetrating oil and an impact wrench to break them loose. Once those are removed, a rubber mallet or small ball peen hammer should separate the rotor from the hub assembly. Make sure you thoroughly clean the hub/rotor mounting surface to remove all dirt and rust. I recommend a wire wheel or emory cloth. You are now ready to bolt the new rotor on and put it all back together. I would advise you if you are running larger than factory tires to investigate the cost of cross-drilled rotors for improved brake cooling. I went to them when I replaced my brake rotors and love them. They work especially well when pulling my boat. You will need to get torque specs from the service manual.

[kkat]

Thanks very much, I don't understand your reference to "Aussie"

Originally Posted by warmonger

Remove wheels. Remove caliper at caliper frame, not the caliper itself. I seem to recall the caliper frame bolts being 22 or 23 mm. Zip tie caliper to keep brake line hanging loose. DO NOT let the caliper and frame assy hang by the brake line!!! Remove front hubs. (Method depends on whether they are factory autolockers or after-market manuals.) There will be a snap ring that will have to be removed depending on which hub you use as to where it is located. Remove two phillips head screws from lock washer. Remove nut from hub. Aussie has a place that has a socket for loosening and tightening that nut to specs. Slide rotor off spindle. While it is off it is a good idea to repack your wheel bearings and replace the rear rotor seals. There are 6 bolts holding the hub to the rotor. You may have to use penetrating oil and an impact wrench to break them loose. Once those are removed, a rubber mallet or small ball peen hammer should separate the rotor from the hub assembly. Make sure you thoroughly clean the hub/rotor mounting surface to remove all dirt and rust. I recommend a wire wheel or emory cloth. You are now ready to bolt the new rotor on and put it all back together. I would advise you if you are running larger than factory tires to investigate the cost of cross-drilled rotors for improved brake cooling. I went to them when I replaced my brake rotors and love them. They work especially well when pulling my boat. You will need to get torque specs from the service manual.

[OffroadX]

Aussie is the handle of another user here.

Please don't quote the entire post, we know what you're replying to...