tired of dealership misdiagnostic- any help would be greatly appreciated-thanks

[nhockett]

I have a 92 gsx with some type of serious mechanical problem. The dipstick blows out usually under hard excelleration, but not always. The car stalls in nuetral at stop signs (5-speed). I have lost approx 30+ horsepower under full acceleration. Approximately 170K miles -newer head that supposedly warped under extremely hot temperatures. The head is at a machine shop being analyzed. The bottom end is stock (as far as I know). A previous owner let the timing belt break (marks on pistons and I believe it has a newer head-according to previous owner). My turbo is newer. Where is my boost going? Why is the dipstick blowing out? I was told that my compression was at 80 all across and should be at 120. Was the warped head causing a leak on the head gasket? Can anyone help me?
Thanks

[kjewer1]

The dipstick could be blowing out because of unusually high crankcase pressure, caused by that unusually low compression ;o) The bottom end is going to need a rebuild if the compression loss is not due to the head/gasket. If it low acrros the board, I would suspect the motor. When its the head/gasket its usually only one, maybe 2 cylinders. Now, if you get a good head and new gasket in there, and compression is fine, then its not the bottom end. It is fairly common to blow out the dipstick, but usually not until you are over 400-500 HP. The dipstick itself can get old and pop out under the slightest pressure, so replace that as well. Its a 12 dollar part. In my case even with a fresh race motor at 175 compression, I had to safety-wire my diptsick down. Be careful who you let rebuild the block, a special torque plate is required to simulate the block distortion caused by the torqed down head. If this isnt done, once you bolt the head on your round cylinders will become eggshaped and making a lot of power will be near impossible. If the block still looks ok, you might try a simple hone and re-ring. Its short money of you can do this type of work yourself. If you have to pay a shop through the nose to do it, it wont be worth since there is a good chance it may not be enough Another option is to pick a up 100k mile block for about 500 bucks and just swap it in. Add in 2-300 for tbelt parts, and you can get out fairly cheap.

Hope something in there helps...