BackFlushing Coolant ('96) Aurora

[Spinman]

It way past time for me to change the coolant in my '96 Aurora.
Naturally, the underhood experience leaves a lot to be desired...and was wondering if anyone has experienced this already and could share some thoughts.

1) Is this a DIY task - or would I be smarted to make a boat payment for my dealership?

2) I see that I must CoolDex coolant and the old GM coolant sealer # 3634621 (3 pellets in lower radiator hose).

3) Where might I find the heater hoses so that I can tap in and install a flush "T"? (Anyone ever construct their own from metal plumbing fixtures to avoid the possibility of plastic failure?)

4) Should I use a cleaner - or will that cause more damage than benefit? (I heard both pro and con when working with alumunium engines - yet prestone strongly recomments)

5) I've never worked on a vehicle with a pressurized coolant bottle - how would I handle the overflow from the back flush? Is there a simple screw on cap that I can obtain that I could modify with a drain hose?

6) Should I replace the thermostat as part of my maintenance (or wait for possible future failure)?

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

[Indy8]

I would not be so concerned about getting an absolute 100% flushing of the system as I would with changing it more often. You will find a round access hole in the body for the drain plug in lower, drivers side air dam area. Use a deep 19mm socket to reach and remove the drain plug. I just remove the reservoir cap, insert the hose with a pressure nozzle, wrap a towel around it and squeeze that trigger. Repeat several times in 15 second bursts. Allow to fully drain, plug it and refill with 50/50 mix of Dex-Cool and distilled water. It usually takes 1.5/.80 gallons to fill using this method. I start it, let warm up at this point. As it warms you will see the reservoir level slowly drop as fluid begins to circulate and the system burps itself(if your car has the small hose between throttle body and tank) add more fluid as needed until the thermostat opens, then cap the tank and drive a few miles, pop the hood and let it fully cool, then re-check level. I do this every 20,000 miles, it only takes 30 minutes. If your car consistently runs over about what you would think is 210 degrees, change thermostat. 15 bucks and 10 more minutes labor is worth it. Mine rarely gets over 200 since I changed it. Both hoses should be very firm, otherwise change them. $17 upper/$9 lower. Go for it!

[bustedratchet]

Yes use the G.M. seal tabs put 3 in a baggie and crush them to a powder. I just put the powder in with the coolant. Kinda cool how nut shells seal a cooling system.

[makthenif]

can you give that to me again about the drivers side air dam area? where exactly is that? thanks

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by makthenif

can you give that to me again about the drivers side air dam area? where exactly is that? thanks

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