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#1
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I'm about to take most of the goddamn engine apart to replace the timing belt, and i was wondering if there is anything else i should do while im in there? It is a mighty D15B2 with 140k miles on it. Should i go for getting new valve seals/head redone to maybe prevent oil burnage? Should i replace the waterpump? How do i tell if i even need a new one, or is it just sorta accepted that you should always. Is there anything i could do performance wise? For instance, if some of my valves were bent(which they probably are from over-cranking), and i get a head job done, could i use that opportunity for performance.....like larger bore etc. I havent researched at all yet, just sorta brainstormin.
Anything...past experiences, whatever, would be helpful. work isnt an issue for me. So, im not worried if its even worth it (for a lowly D15), i still want to get in there and make this engine last forever, heh. thanks -Cole edit: maybe i could get a hold of an Si cam shaft? |
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#2
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Did the timing belt break, or are you just replacing it? Either way you shouldnt have bent valves. While you in there to replace the timing belt i would highly recomend doing the water pump its only another 4 bolts to replace it. Replace the drive belts while its going back together and new cap, rotor and plugs and she run just fine. However if your thinking of valve seal and head work you might as well drop the pan and ring it as well and have a fresh motor that will last another 100,000 miles...
gunnmen01
__________________
My other ride..... is YOUR MOM !!!!!!
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#3
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was thinkin that too.
The way i see it is that the fewer (or fewest) times i have to take this engine apart, the better. Just get everything done at once or not at all and just wait. ya know? |
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#4
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Ok, a bit of advice from someone who's been there. DONT just rebuild the head and leave the block, I don't know all the reasons why, but when you have a "new" head on the old block, the compression goes up greatly, and in my case, started to burn oil. (I was putting 10w40 in just so it wouldnt burn as fast) Its got something to do with the new seals on the head, and the old stuff in the block.
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#5
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heh, shite, after all of this, ill have the best damn D15B2 out there. Might as well spring for a swap. goddamn. $$$$$$$$$$
can anyone else vouch for that new head on an old block thing? Got me worried. Maybe it was just the pistonrings, or the gasket that increased the compression. Im worried that if i end up pulling the pistons to replace the rings, ill probably have to end up boring out the cylinders to make them round again and get new pistons and rods and shit. Chances are, the pistons arent round, and i dont even have the special micrometers to test it. |
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#6
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I'll admit that the car i had the oil thing on was old, an 86 civic, but it only had about 100k on it. When you pull the pistons out, you get the cylinders honed, that makes them round again without making the holes considerably larger (its still within tolerances). You can use the old rods no problem (as long as there is nothing wrong with them), but you would need new rings, pistons, and should put new berings in there.
If this happened to me, and I was looking at this kind of money again, I would take it as a sign from god to get a new, larger engine
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#7
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I'm almost done repairing an 86 Integra I bought with some bent valves from a broken timing belt.
I bought a used head for $150. Ordered timing belt, head gasket, exhaust gasket, intake manifold gasket, and water pump from Beck/Arnley: $167 Replaced heater hoses: $20 New thermostat: $8 Tube of gasket sealer: $3 Even without the used head, I spent over $200. Now I found an 88 Integra in the junkyard, and the engine is $225. I could have swapped out the whole motor in less than a weekend. Replacing the head has taken me three weekends and cost much skin off of the back of my hands, especially the knuckles. Fuck it. I'd rather swap out a motor. Flunky PS-Even if I swapped a motor, I'd still replace the water pump and timing belt... |
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