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#1
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Do you have to jack up the front and/or remove any parts to change out the serpentine belt? Looks really tight in there. Mine is a 98 classic. Thanks in advance.
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#2
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well I didnt' want to do it cause I figured it'd take a while so I had my mechanic do it and when he did it took him 2 hours and he had to take the wheel well out to get to the belt but I would go to like pepboys and look it up on the books they have like the chiltons, they dont have a book just for the aurora they have one for all cars like 97 and up or something. Just look at that.
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#3
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Thanks 97Silverbullet. That is very good advice. I subscribed to alldata and found step by step instructions there. It took me about 3 hours and a bunch cussin'. I had to raise the front and then remove the splash guard. Threading the new belt around the tensioner was a bear. Learned a lot in the process, though. Car still runs and no more squeek.
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#4
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Re: Belt replacement question
It sounds like you guy's did some unnecessary work. I have a 97 and I changed mine in ten minutes. If you're just changing the belt there is no need to mess with the torque plate or tensioner. Relieve tension, slide belt off p/s pulley and remove. It's tight threading the new one but nothing in the routing requires removal. That's why dealers can advertise this service for $69 belt and labor, and still make money. If it took a pro mechanic more than 30 minutes, he did'nt know the car.
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#5
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Re: Belt replacement question
Hey Indy8
Did you access the belt from underneath? Mike |
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#6
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Re: Re: Belt replacement question
You might have to reach underneath to make sure the belt is centered on the crankshaft pulley, but otherwise you can do it all up top. Use a 1/2 inch square ratchet extension(scrap steel,whatever)and insert it into the recessed area on the forward face of the tensioner. Push the belt towards the engine a little, you'll see it. Now pull forward and down towards the headlight, you'll see the belt go slack, just slide it off the top of the power steering pulley and then let the tensioner return. Work the belt off all the other pulley's, then thread the new one on and reverse the operation. Routing guide is either in owner's manual or on underhood sticker. Draw it out on paper if you have to before you start. It's even easier changing the water pump belt, and at $6, it's cheap insurance.
__________________
Quality isn't expensive, it's priceless. |
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#7
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Re: Belt replacement question
I also have a 98 classic. When i changed mine I used alldata. I removed the wheel and partially removed the splash shield. The 98 has an extra motor mount but it went smoothly except for getting the belt onto the tensioner (tight fit) and twisting the belt After ten minutes I walked away to get some water and came back to try again the belt slipped right onto the pulley . Total time minus the ten minutes was probably less than twenty minutes.
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#8
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belts
If you are changing the belt, dont forget, the water pump has its own belt, on the other side of the engine.
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#9
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Re: belts
When installing the belt, thread the whole thing on except for the power steering pulley. Smear a little silicon(die-electric)grease on the outer lip of the pulley and then pull down on the tensioner. It should easily slip on.
__________________
Quality isn't expensive, it's priceless. Last edited by Indy8; 12-06-2003 at 07:17 PM. |
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#10
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I just went to one of those quickie oil change places today and the nimrod there said i needed the serpinetine belt changed which i agree with him on that one. When he told me that it required removing a motor mount to do it is when i knew he was full of crap. I used to work on cars for a living and could tell that i have forgotten more than that idot knows otherwise he wouldnt be stuck working in a oil change place. Sometimes I wish i was working on cars for living again but machine repair pays better and i have better benifits. Anyways i can see that by using a 1/2" breaker bar or a rachet extension you can release the tension on the tensioner pulley and remove the old belt and replace it with a new one. So i think that it is entirely possible to do it in like ten minutes. It may be a tight squeeze but it can be done
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#11
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Re: Belt replacement question
At first glance it looks like the motor mount needs to be disconnected but any one that works on cars for a living should be able to trace the belt and tensioner in a few moments but considering that one of those places had to buy a friend of mine a rebuilt engine because they put the wrong oil filter on I certainly am not suprised. They were lucky it was a Ford ohv 5.0 liter and not a Northstar!
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#12
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Hey all,
I have a 98 with almost 75K on it. I'm about to change all the hoses and belts before I drive it to Texas from Virginia. I got an estimate from a shop and they wanted, go figure, $500 since they "have to remove the motor mount". I think I'll opt to do it myself! Any advice?? I looked at alldata, but looks like I have to pay. From what I've read, it should make it easier to remove the right front wheel and splash guard to get better access and to lube the pulley. Any other advice? Thanks - |
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#13
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Re: Belt replacement question
hmmmm I have a noisey pulley too!
(think its the A/C) can it be lubed? or only replaced |
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#14
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Re: Belt replacement question
Belts and hoses take 60-90 minutes with basic hand tools. A/C clutch pulley's can be replaced.
__________________
Quality isn't expensive, it's priceless. |
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#15
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I just changed both my serpentine belt and water pump belt today in less than 2 hours combined. The first 30-45 mins was just jacking it up correctly, taking off the wheel, and looking the thing over. If anyone wants some guidance just let me know (pm, email, or I can post something here). It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought. Just yesterday I had a shop tell me it would be over $400 to get them replaced along with 2 hoses b/c it would take probably 2.5 hours just for the serpentine since they had to remove the engine mount. That's a crock! Anyways...definately doable with basic tools and maneuvering the belt around.
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