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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
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I need help real bad. PLEASE help fast.
I've come here for some very important advice from you mustang pros.
I am about to get a 1993 5.0L GT or LX mustang so: 1. What do I need to check very carefully to know that it is in good condition? 2. What are the first things i better buy or change in it? 3. How far can i push the car.(e.g. I can race 24/7 or once a month or not at all)? 4. Is a 1993 a good choice? Thanks to the people who wish to help |
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#2 | |||||
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AF Enthusiast
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Quote:
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I have the Bullitt... just waiting on funds for the other four cars. |
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#3 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Thanks
Wow. I didnt check the windows. Thanks alot Los. Realy helps. I shall do as you say.
I did find a good one and it looks good, inside and outside, no strange sounds, the stareo is totally wasted(i will by a new one anyway), no oil leaks or any other leaks, ive tried to rew it up and it does some good noise BUT: I tried another 5.0, same model, and the car responds to the gas peddal much faster then the one i want to buy. What might be the problem? BTW I am a serious racer, I dont race just anyone, only for money My friend said that i have to race a 93 mustang right next to the repair shop(cause after every race its SUPPOSED to break) He scared me to death, tell me its not true.Sorry for being so uneducated but, whats a "short throw"? |
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#4 | |
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I read and am helpful.
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it's a new shifter that shortens the length that your arm needs to travel to change gears. when buying, i'd cheak for leaks for sure and snif for unusual oders, while the engine irs running and when it is freashly off. let it run for a while until the temp goes up before you stop it and check. 93 is a fine vintage of fox 50 mustangs. Change what ever you deam necessary.
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free hypsi87!! Dan's White Horse Bring back Melt Crew 002 - 3657 posts can't be wrong! |
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#5 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Re: I need help real bad. PLEASE help fast.
Thats alot of help from you two. Thanks. If anyone else has anything important i should know, PLEASE write, I will maintaining this thread untill the 7th of october(the day when i get the car), and probably will ask for help during any breakdowns. Thanks to all again. Please continue posting.
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#6 | |
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AF Regular
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i am new to 5.0's but i have read alot of posts about the heater core being bad, I know its like the bigest pain in the ass to change, i think you run the engine and put the heat on and if it smells like radiator fluid coming out of the vents the the cores bad if im wrong someone correct me peace
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#7 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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to CRXsk8er. yes heater cores are a huge pain in the ### in the 87 - 93 stangs. i had to do mine about a year ago. i figured out the heater core went when steam would come out of the defroster vents even when the heater was off. but yes when the heater is on you should smell coolant as well.
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Alum Dished Pistons), B50 Block, Track Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK EL-CC Headers, MAC O.R. H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Accufab 75mm TB, MAC CAI, BBK Pulleys, Griffin Alum Radiator, Mark 8 Fan, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 L-U Converter, B&M Trans Cooler; 3:73 gears. |
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#8 | |
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Stanger
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Re: I need help real bad. PLEASE help fast.
If the car does not have factory AC, then the heater core sawp is simple, and should take no more the 1/2 hour, start to finish.
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[size=1]-1950 Ford Custom, flathead V8
-2013 Ford Flex -1999 Ford F150 |
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#9 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Heater cores are just a PITA period. I have an 01 and it took a shit over the summer.
Revving has alot to do with cams, at least, I'm pretty sure it does. My best friend's 5.0 revs very quickly and slides down the rpm scale quickly as well while my own motor likes to float around the rpm scale. |
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#10 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: I need help real bad. PLEASE help fast.
Quote:
Where is the "Heater Core"? If possible, please provode a picture. |
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#11 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2002
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ok first (incase u don't know)... a heater core is basicly your heater.
i'm not 100 percent sure where it is in a 93 stang, but i know in my 67 that it is under the dash on the passenger side.. hope that helps (oh yea, it looks just like a little radiator) |
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#12 | |
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I read and am helpful.
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with ac it's behind the dash, w/o ac it's behind the glove box. The heater core is fine if the cabin doens't smell like antifreeze when you turn in on, it doesn't leak antifreeze into the cabin when it's off or when the coolant system doens't leak at all.
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free hypsi87!! Dan's White Horse Bring back Melt Crew 002 - 3657 posts can't be wrong! |
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#13 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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the heater core is at the very top of your heater assembly on the passenger side. the steering wheel must be dropped and the entire dash must be pulled back off the firewall to get to it on AC cars. get a chiltons manual, it will walk you through the entire process w/ pics.
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Alum Dished Pistons), B50 Block, Track Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK EL-CC Headers, MAC O.R. H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Accufab 75mm TB, MAC CAI, BBK Pulleys, Griffin Alum Radiator, Mark 8 Fan, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 L-U Converter, B&M Trans Cooler; 3:73 gears. |
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#14 | |
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I read and am helpful.
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my white behind - the chilton was the long/complicated way with three hard to identify images. if it needs to be changed talk to me, i know of two great web reasources that will help.
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free hypsi87!! Dan's White Horse Bring back Melt Crew 002 - 3657 posts can't be wrong! |
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#15 | |
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Stanger
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Re: I need help real bad. PLEASE help fast.
Just start pulling shit apart. As long as you have a good set of hands its easy, just time consuming.
__________________
[size=1]-1950 Ford Custom, flathead V8
-2013 Ford Flex -1999 Ford F150 |
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