tornado air fuel saver

[dario03]

I was just wondering if anyone knows if they work? Example of any car that it does work in would be cool, but I mostly would like to know if it would work in a 2002 yukon xl and monte carlo, a 2001 grand am, a eagle talon, a 96 thunderbird Lx, and most of all my car a 2003 impala Ls.

[frankendart]

They Don't.

[ra11585643]

They work to a dregree but they wont make it a race car.

[markg96]

Bought one for my '95 Tahoe TBI. Wasted $. No effect whatsoever.

IMO - Buy a K&N filter and call it a day.

[RABarrett]

The Tornado works by creating a vortex, or funnel in the incominbg air flow. The result is that some of the restrictions to that air flow are eliminated. As the air flows around restrictions and other objects, it creates what is called a boundary layer of air close to that restriction. It is caused by the air flowing around the object. Since some of the airflowing around this object must turn, rise or descend, the change in airflow causes some for the air to stagnate, or stop moving, enlarging the restriction and causing a restriction on the flow path. In essence, the path is restricted by non-moving air. The more airflow you try to create, the larger the restriction. If you have ever observed a tornado, you will notice that it appears to be very unstable, curving, turning, etc. This is because the violently revolving air is very unstable, allowing almost anything in its path to change its course. The Tornado device works the same way; it causes a vortex to form, allowing the funnel to better conform to the intake path. The boundary layer is reduced, and the result is more airflow into the cylinders. The reason there is typically very little gain is that most post 1965 vehicles were desgned with this in mind. The muscle car era solved quite a few problems like these since more air results in more effective compression, hence, more power. Ray

[AAB]

I second markg96's response. Bought one too and wasted money ... 100 % money back back guarantee only works if you can get a hold of them.

Gave up trying after leaving 5 messages.

[bhons]

Originally Posted by dario03

I was just wondering if anyone knows if they work? Example of any car that it does work in would be cool, but I mostly would like to know if it would work in a 2002 yukon xl and monte carlo, a 2001 grand am, a eagle talon, a 96 thunderbird Lx, and most of all my car a 2003 impala Ls.

From what I hear they do not work. I am using a device called a Gas Economizer and have made up to 32.1 MPG. My oils is very clean my change oil light went on at close to 3000 miles and after using it for a while and this is a test - my change oil light went on after 8500 miles and oils appears very clean. At 95000 miles I experience a slight fludder in the engine at idle. Change wires to premuin wire and plugs from factory. Tested the wires and 3 had 53000 ohm' and 3 had 63000 ohm's
which would explain the engine fludder.

I have a starter problem ; 1st time in Aug 2003 when hot it would start but wait and it would start and it was in warrenty and dealer fixed it but did not understand the fix. Now several times it would not start but with a jump it started but on 1-14-05 went out to eat after about 45 minutes it would start. I thought I needed a jump but my mechanic came
out because it would be cheaper than tow or jump. But it would not jump and the mechanic said it was the starter. Had to order a starter so by the next afternoon got the starter and guess what would crank - mechanic did some jumping inthe fuse block at the starter crank relay. got it sarted but died reverse the relay and it ran and drove to shop. My mechanic took the starter to the parts house and tested it and said the starter had low voltage. But I question this as a cover up on the parts house part. My mehanic is honest. Trying to get a 4 prong relay TYCO 12193604 # on the relay. I have had security come on and lights in the dash on coming then coming -the same senario every posting a none starting problem. Like everyone else love this but this problem needs to fixed.

[enginetune]

Originally Posted by bhons

I have a starter problem ; 1st time in Aug 2003 when hot it would start but wait and it would start and it was in warrenty and dealer fixed it but did not understand the fix. Now several times it would not start but with a jump it started but on 1-14-05 went out to eat after about 45 minutes it would start. I thought I needed a jump but my mechanic came
out because it would be cheaper than tow or jump. But it would not jump and the mechanic said it was the starter. Had to order a starter so by the next afternoon got the starter and guess what would crank - mechanic did some jumping inthe fuse block at the starter crank relay. got it sarted but died reverse the relay and it ran and drove to shop. My mechanic took the starter to the parts house and tested it and said the starter had low voltage. But I question this as a cover up on the parts house part. My mehanic is honest. Trying to get a 4 prong relay TYCO 12193604 # on the relay. I have had security come on and lights in the dash on coming then coming -the same senario every posting a none starting problem. Like everyone else love this but this problem needs to fixed.

You didn't say what year or model of vehicle. You did say security light. That is most likely the culprit. The last two of those I heard about needed new keys. Seems the chip in the key doesn't match the what the ecm needs to see and won't let the engine crank when it rains. Or if it gets cold. Or if it gets hot. Temperature and humidity have a lot of effect on electronic devices. a computer gets hot when it operates and cold when it doesn't. This takes a toll on things and the values change.