14b at 16 psi

[95_GSX]

first question. my cousin has a 14b that is in good shape and wants a 100-150 dollars, is that a fair price? if so could i run this turbo at 16 psi with an MBC on stock fuel infectors and no fuel management? because right now my car is pretty much stock except for a blitz BOV and a K&N(building home depot intake this weekend).

thanks for the help.

[Talon007]

Look around your area and see how much used 14B's are going for, thats a good price in my area, but mabey not in yours.

[RockinWRX]

The 14B is a solid upgrade for the 2G. You'll need an adaptor for it though , I beleive , So it can bolt up to the exhaust mani , and the compressor outlet faces the wrong direction from what the T25 does. The T25 goes out underneath and toward the P-side fender , the 14B comes out on top and toward the radiator. And I'd say about $100 for a good 14B in excellent running condition is about average.

[Talon007]

The 14B will bolt up to the Ex mani. The kit is for the water/oil lines

[RockinWRX]

Originally Posted by Talon007

The 14B will bolt up to the Ex mani. The kit is for the water/oil lines

Yeah , I was thinking about the T3's , don't ask me why. That requires a whole nother exhaust mani. But yeah , he's right , you'll need the kit for the relocated water and oil lines on the 14B. You can check RRE (RoadRaceEnginering) for those. And you'll need to reroute the plumbing coming off the turbo outlet.

[my91gvr4]

Originally Posted by RockinWRX

Yeah , I was thinking about the T3's , don't ask me why. That requires a whole nother exhaust mani. But yeah , he's right , you'll need the kit for the relocated water and oil lines on the 14B. You can check RRE (RoadRaceEnginering) for those. And you'll need to reroute the plumbing coming off the turbo outlet.

The T3 does not require a new manifold. There are a number of kits (all really the same things) that will allow you to utilize the stock manifold. And the "2G install kit" works with the stock 2G IC pipe routing. The routing is not altered.

[kjewer1]

The "routing" is altered. A j-pipe is required to get back down to the LICP. All you need to toss a 14b on is the jpipe, and oil feed line. It can be had for less than 200 bucks, or you can pick up RREs hacker tweaker kit for 199 (fill kits are ~100 more, but you can reuse all of the metal gaskets). For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge. For water lines, simply swap the front with the rear, bend slightly as needed, and drive it on. Very simple, and it can all be done for 300 bucks. With this, BOV, exhaust, filter, AFC, boost controller, and race gas, I ran 12.7s. Others have gone faster. Defintely some VERY good bang for the buck.

[RockinWRX]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

The "routing" is altered. A j-pipe is required to get back down to the LICP. All you need to toss a 14b on is the jpipe, and oil feed line. It can be had for less than 200 bucks, or you can pick up RREs hacker tweaker kit for 199 (fill kits are ~100 more, but you can reuse all of the metal gaskets). For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge. For water lines, simply swap the front with the rear, bend slightly as needed, and drive it on. Very simple, and it can all be done for 300 bucks. With this, BOV, exhaust, filter, AFC, boost controller, and race gas, I ran 12.7s. Others have gone faster. Defintely some VERY good bang for the buck.

Thanks for the knowledgable reply. We need more of that around here.

[kjewer1]

Dont mention it. I dug up an old reply with a couple more details, but I think I covered all the good stuff above.. In other parts of that file I covered boost creep extensively. I forgot that I was getting creep to 22 psi, something you dont really have to worry about on the t25... If anyone is interested in that info, its a cut and paste away.

-----

As far as the install I used RRE's "hacker/tweaker" instal kit for 200 bucks. Had everything I needed. The ONLY part that I would consider a pain in the ass was filing out the holes for the oil return line. But it beats removing it from the pan and having trouble with the infamous leaks. Now with my die grinder that job wouldn't take 5 minutes. Total job took me about 5-6 hours taking my time with food/drink breaks.

Also read the vfaq on 2G 16G install.... Tom Stangle put some notes in red about not switching the water lines front to back... I did this and it was a piece of cake. No extra water line necessary. Also, about all the hype about removing the stud... With the fan off (driver side) I have never had trouble removing the turbo or installing it in my 95, whether it was the T25 or 14B, so I always left it in. Everyone laughed and couldn't belive the stud was still there when they saw my 14b, but it works I did evetually remove it because in my quest to eliminate boost creep I was removing just the turbine housing itself about once a week And I got a handful of extra bolts from a NEDSM member at the local track hehe.

[Talon007]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

And I got a handful of extra bolts from a NEDSM member at the local track hehe.

One mans garbage is another mans gold

[95_GSX]

Alright here is what i got on my hands, a 14b with no shaft play for a hundred bucks, he said he would give me a stock 1G exhaust mani for free if i wanted it.(is it better than the stock 2G???) also could i build my "J" pipe out of 2-2 1/2" PVC and run it into my stock LICP??? i would need to switch the water lines front to back, and this is what i need some more clarification on "For the oil return line, simply file/drill/grind the two bolt holes clower together to match the spacing of the tdo5 cartridge." does Vfaq have more info, step by step instructions???? or any other help would be greatly appreciated.thanks

[my91gvr4]

The 2G manifold is better. Keep yours and get the 1G to sell.

[kjewer1]

PVC and ABS is great, but only before the turbo. Some people use it after, but I defintely dont trust it with the after turbo heat. As for the drain line holes, the vfaq mentions it, but once you look at the parts it will make sense. Its very simple. The bolt holes are spaced farther apart on the 2g turbo/drain line than on the 1g turbo/drain line.

[95_GSX]

so who makes a good manual boost controler? and what brand of gauges are accurate and reliable? i dont want any bling bling non functioning POS.Thanks

[95_GSX]

Originally Posted by 95_GSX

so who makes a good manual boost controler? and what brand of gauges are accurate and reliable? i dont want any bling bling non functioning POS.Thanks

needed to bring this back up, thanks.