Question for the Integra guys-

[Loopey]

Well, lemme say frist that I don't know shit about Acuras- I'm into the Hondas. But I've got a little sister that wants to buy a 90 Acrua Integra GS (I think he said GS, but it might have been LS). She want's me to go take a look at it sunday. So my question- what kind of known problems should I look for on thiss thing? I know it's got 148,000 miles on it, and she tells me that it's in good shape. Hes asking $2,600 for it, is that a fair price? And do Integra engines handle going over 100k as well as lets say a 90 Honda civic? Any help here would be great, cause like I said, I dont know the first thing about Integras. And if she ends up getting this thing and has problems with it, guess who gets to fix it? Me

Thanks again-

Loopey

[94blklighting]

Pop the hood and what do i see a little 4 banger holding the badge of the mighty Honda.

yes it will go fine over 100k. Just do the reg stuff to it and it will be fine.
Great Engines.

[Loopey]

really? a honda engine in em? cool. Any one know which engine model it is?

[100proof]

better then a civic
civic si-127hp
integ ls or gs-140hp acura and honda are the compeny
acura is just a higher quality

[config]

Acura = Honda's [owned by Honda, and IS Honda] American Luxury Line of cars

[PWMAN]

Originally posted by 100proof
better then a civic
civic si-127hp
integ ls or gs-140hp acura and honda are the compeny
acura is just a higher quality

A 90 integra would have 130 HP, not 140. But more torque than the civic. The engine is the B18A1, it's a good one.
Yes honda and acura are the same thing.

[Loopey]

Thanks for clearing that up for me Any specific problems I should check for?

[PWMAN]

Take it to a garage and get it ''pre-inspected''. In other words, run it through an inspection and see what it needs. Ask them to specifically check the CV joints and the brakes.

[strangerover]

It is a rock solid engine. First, though, make sure the oil was changed. Open the oil filler and if it is dark in there, the oil changes were pushed. At 140K, the car should have had at LEAST one timing belt service done (TB service=TB, water pump, coolant, usually accessory belts, and if they're good, a TB tensioner pulley). If this car was serviced at the dealer, and there's proof of that, they would have done it as part of a "packaged" major service, such as a 60K or 90K service. This service would also include the valve adjustment, which should be done every 30K (I think). If that timing belt is original and has been in service for 13 years, that thing is a time bomb and it should be serviced pronto. Like they said, check the CV boots. If they're torn, you probably need joint(s). Incidentally, most afterbirth, I mean, aftermarket "remanufactured" axles are SHIZZIT. The only reman parts worth using are genuine Acura ones. If the car is a 5-speed, check the clutch pedal feel. It should be relatively light and smooth through its travel. If it feels like it doesn't move much before reaching the floor, the clutch is probably whipped. Make sure the gears shift smoothly, as they should. If it's auto, just make sure the tranny fluid isn't really rude looking and make sure it shifts OK. If it clunks/thumps under the hood during on/off throttle transitions, the motor mounts are probably spent. If the suspension is original, check the ball joints and rear trailing arm bushings. Make sure it doesn't shudder over rough pavement. Tha't basically it. These are robust, tough little cars. It is basically the same an 88-91 Civic, but with different skin and engines. Pretty easy to work on.

[Loopey]

strangerover- Thank you. That is exactly what i was looking for here I know how to throughly check a 2'n or 3'd gen CRX or Civic, but I was clueless as to what to look for in a Acrua. I'm to lazy to read up on other models of cars

[94tegRS]

oh yeha, when you test drive it, even though the seller might not like it, wrap it out through at least first/second. cuz when i bought my teg IN only could test drive it in a parking lot and topped 1st, shifted to second and had no more room to pull, and then went to 3rd, and it was fine, but when I was on the way home after buying it a couple days later I topped it out in 2nd and shifted and it ended up if you took it past like 5k+ in 2nd it would grind into 3rd.

[Myrrdex]

Originally posted by 94tegRS
oh yeha, when you test drive it, even though the seller might not like it, wrap it out through at least first/second. cuz when i bought my teg IN only could test drive it in a parking lot and topped 1st, shifted to second and had no more room to pull, and then went to 3rd, and it was fine, but when I was on the way home after buying it a couple days later I topped it out in 2nd and shifted and it ended up if you took it past like 5k+ in 2nd it would grind into 3rd.

my friend had that same problem and it ended up being his vtec controller, some computer problem the dealer tried to make him pay a lot of money to fix. He just went to a local import mechanic and he referred him to someone else who fixed it for 300 dollars so if that is a problem with the car the car would be 2900 after that gets fixed. which is not all that bad. assuming you know the ppl to fix it

[94tegRS]

mine was the synchros, no vafc or any kinda of piggy back system.

do you know what the problem with the vtec controller was?

cuz in a 5 speed, theres no wires at all controlling anything so if the clutch is in and you shift it should be the same no matter what your fuel curve or vtec engagement point is.

[tran_nsx]

one more thing u should check also i didn't see no one wrote down was the fuel filter. i change mine any time i buy a used car