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Old 08-06-2003, 04:37 PM
Ketch Ketch is offline
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99 Suburban Alignment specs

would somebody with access to a shop manual or alldata lookup the toe, camber and caster specs for a 1998/9 suburban c1500 2wd 5.7L

I just spent 120 for an alignment right before a 2500 mile road trip and the thing still pulled all the way! I have the printout and want to check if he even got near.
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Old 08-09-2003, 01:38 PM
Ketch Ketch is offline
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no responses...hmmm..perhaps I needed to say "please" :-)

anyone have access to a shop manual to check the alignment specs for c1500 suburban 2wd 5.7L please?
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Old 08-09-2003, 01:48 PM
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TorinoGT69 TorinoGT69 is offline
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Have you had it aligned before?
Those trucks have knockout plugs which must be removed to properly align them.
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Old 08-09-2003, 01:49 PM
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TorinoGT69 TorinoGT69 is offline
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Also if the pull is a hard pull it may be a tire you might try swapping the two front tires.
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Old 08-09-2003, 02:37 PM
pcv pcv is offline
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I have two specs for you.
Silverado and Sierra
CAMBER 0.25 RANGE( -.025 TO .75)
CASTER 3.75 RANGE(2.75 TO 4.75)
TOE-IN 0.1 RANGE(0.1 TO 0.3)


Independent suspension except Silverado and Sierra
CAMBER 0.5 RANGE ( 0 TO 1)
CASTER 3.75 RANGE (2.75 TO 4.75)
TOE-IN 0.1 RANGE (0.04 TO 0.44)

ALL READING ARE IN DEGREES.

I hope this information is of some help to you.
Good Luck.
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NOTHING LIKE AN OLD CAR.
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:33 AM
TomMustang TomMustang is offline
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Re: 99 Suburban Alignment specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by TorinoGT69
Have you had it aligned before?
Those trucks have knockout plugs which must be removed to properly align them.
Where are the knockout plugs?
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Old 03-06-2005, 01:02 PM
Ketch Ketch is offline
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Re: Re: 99 Suburban Alignment specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomMustang
Where are the knockout plugs?
my understanding and observation is that each top control arm mounts to the frame with fore and aft cam bolts. Those bolts can be turned and the cam action allows you to adjust camber and even caster to some degree. There are perforations around each hole to enable you to "punch out" and make the hole bigger in case you need more adjusting room. A die grinder probably needs to be used to smooth out the holes.

I was told the current truck design has plastic inserts so its easier to remove these and no grinding is necessary to smooth the hole.

a dealer originally did my knock-outs. But last time I went to alignment shop they charged me to grind the holes smooth, claiming the burrs left by the dealer were interfering with the cam action. Uh-huh.
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