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  #1  
Old 11-17-2001, 02:25 AM
Sub Boy Sub Boy is offline
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Where do I go to check Chassis numbers for R32 GT-Rs?

I've found a GT-R that I want to buy (Finally!) I just want to check out if it's a lemon! Which one of you clued on dudes can help me out?

CV:frog:
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Old 11-17-2001, 02:32 AM
mrmeal mrmeal is offline
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I can't help directly, but I can maybe help by pointing you in a good direction. MrGTR in Aussi can probably help you. Steve used to frequent our forums before they went down, not sure if he has made the transition to here, unless he was already here :-)

I don't even know his e-mail addie sorry, but someone here might.
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Old 11-18-2001, 02:25 PM
Sub Boy Sub Boy is offline
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.......Can't anybody help me out?
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Old 11-18-2001, 02:29 PM
Brenhan Brenhan is offline
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post any questions that you have here and someone will work it out , what do you want to know?
Bren.
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Old 11-19-2001, 12:11 AM
Sub Boy Sub Boy is offline
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Hi Brenhan! Well the Chassis number is BNR32-212926 Basicly I want to know if there is any thing I sould know about this car......You tell me, I'm just trying to cover my ass by checking every thing I can.
Ta Dude,

CV
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Old 11-19-2001, 01:23 AM
GraemeWi GraemeWi is offline
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I'll paste in my tip for pre-purchase checks on a Skyline:

The year of manufacture can be found by looking at the front seatbelts, near the floor mounting point. There is a fabric tag with the seatbelt specifications and the year of manufacture sewn onto the webbing.

The GT-R also has a year (and month?) code printed on one of the rubber brake lines on the booster. Someone with a GT-R may be able to provide some help.

Inspect the welded seams in the front door sills just below the plastic kick plate. This is where I have seen rust start to form on Skylines, especially the R32. The R33 has an identical seam, so these will also show in years to come.

Remove the rubber around the boot rim. This is a prime rust spot in any car. While you are in there, look in the side panels and make sure they are not full of water.

Feel inside the panels in the boot where the jack is. debris found here will tell a story. Watch for glass (broken rear window or tail lights at some point)

Inside the engine bay, look for crayon or chalk marks on components - this may indicate they have been replaced with second-hand parts.

Crawl under the car and inspect behind the front and rear bumpers for signs of collusion damage.

If you are keen, use a set of vernier callipers to measure the panel gaps especially on the doors.

Diagnostics - it's something the AA doesn't do or know about. Chances are the seller doesn't know about them either. Run them!
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Old 11-19-2001, 03:34 AM
Brenhan Brenhan is offline
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Graeme has covered about everything , it must be a pretty late model one with that chassis number , check the 4th gear synchro , that seems to be the thing that indicates if it has been thrashed , has it been modified at all ? pull the kickpanel that covers the ECU out and see if the wiring has been hacked into , ( tell tale signs of boost / fuel / ignition controllers) . does the gearbox whine ? ( bearings or gear hardening) does it have any rattles from the suspension? how many k's?
Bren.
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Old 11-19-2001, 03:44 AM
Sub Boy Sub Boy is offline
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Yeah.....It's got a few mods,1991,90,000ks, T28 turbos,twin blow-offs, nismo oil cooler, cusco braces, tein suspenstion (There is some noise from the left front of car, but I'm unsure of wether it is from the shockies) full nismo body kit, black, 260k speedo, 17" momos, etc.
Gearbox doesn't seem to whine, But I'm getting the car checked out first, Haven't checked for A/Market ECU.
Whats the price on a C's or Cusco gear set for um?
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Old 11-19-2001, 01:18 PM
Brenhan Brenhan is offline
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if its a 91 there may have been an extra number in the chassis number there are only 5 numbers normally. my car is a late 1990 and it is BNR32-12xxx , Twin blow off valves are standard equipment , are they aftermarket ones ? they seem to run better with the recirculating ones with the factory ECU or Power FC , if the noise from the front left is a rattle it will nost likely be the upper arm bushes , a pretty easy job to replace them . a short shifter is about $500 -$600 but you might find a cheaper one .
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Old 11-19-2001, 11:17 PM
primo primo is offline
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my book says it is a september 91 model
thats all i can tell
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Old 11-20-2001, 12:05 AM
Sub Boy Sub Boy is offline
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Thanks Mr Primo, It doesn't give an indication of spec, I.E this has the alloy bonnet etc and it's black?
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Old 11-20-2001, 12:35 AM
primo primo is offline
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they all have alloy bonets and gaurds
the chassis no# only tells me of the month and year
thats all i can help with sorry
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Old 11-20-2001, 05:33 AM
MRECCE MRECCE is offline
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Hey Bren, my gitter (gtr) is in the 12,000's too, i dont mean to get off the beaten track, but i want to know about a weird noise when i start the car, about 3 seconds after it ignites there's a woosh noice, kinda sounds like a sub (speaker)more than a air noise.
Any thoughts???
Now about buying gitters, look at it over and over and over, and you'll still find something sus on it, r32's are 10 years old or more, thats a long time to even have a small whack, you may want to accept that it's had a crash already, look at what you are paying for it and if it 's not shagged buy it. Like most gtr owners the first thing you'll do is pull it apart aye?
And you're bound to find stuff that scares you. The only thing i could really suggest about finding out about it's life, is to find where in japan it's lived, if it's in an area that snows it will probably get rust problems,( the still use salt to cover roads in some parts) thats not to say it wont happen to others
Stace
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2001, 02:33 PM
Brenhan Brenhan is offline
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just trying to think , it wouldnt be the viscous fan would it ? I cant think of anything else . yeah , not long after you get the car you pull it apart , then wonder why .
Brenhan.
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