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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2003
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which head which block?
b18 head + b16 block OR b16 head + b18 block
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#2 | |
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AF Newbie
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which one is better performance wise?
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
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mayb no post cuz no one knows what im talkin bout?
im talkin about to make a ls vtec |
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#4 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
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The best performing ls/vtec ive heard of is a b18 bottom end with a b16 or ITR top end.
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#5 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Quote:
__________________
2003 Infiniti G35 99 Yamaha YZF-R6 (sold) 2000 Acura Integra Type R (sold) 1994 Acura Integra GSR (retired/sold) |
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#6 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Enola, Pennsylvania
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Yeah B18 block with B16 head is best. Or ITR head like krnxracer said, same thing but probably more expensive.
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#7 | |
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AF Regular
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I want to do this also but am kind of clueless. The B16 head would be off a 99 or so Civic Si? Also, is this a job that I could possibly do just by taking note of how everything goes together, and putting the B16 head on myself? Or is there a silly amount of wiring and jerry rigging that must be done? About the most advanced thing I've ever done is changing springs/struts, and timing belt.
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#8 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Enola, Pennsylvania
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I wouldn't do it, LS/VTEC has been proven unreliable on a stock engine. Now if you built it up with aftermarket stuff, that would be different.
Why don't you just go turbo, that is ideal for an LS teg. |
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#9 | |
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AF Regular
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Wouldn't it be cheaper though to find a junkyard motor and steal the head off it? Plus I wouldn't think it would be any worse for a motor than forced induction would be? I'm not pointing fingers, just making educated guesses.
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#10 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Any time you tamper with an engine by taking it apart it always to to screw stuff up. Just my experience. Especially since you don't really know what you are doing. Putting on a turbo kit is WAY easier than doing an LS/VTEC. You would be better off, trust me. Get a turbo kit and run like 8 PSI, forget VTEC. How many miles are on your car? |
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#11 | |
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AF Regular
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Probably too many. Like 94,000. I'll just scrap the idea then until I'm done with school. I don't have $3,000 to put a turbo in it.
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#12 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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1.Less than 50K-safe to boost 12 PSI 2. 50-100K-safe to boost 10 PSI 3.100-150K-safe to boost 8 PSI 4-Over 150K-Not worth risk of blowing engine up These are very safe numbers, I've seen 12 PSI boosting on an LS with over 100K still going after 2 years. Now has 125K or something like that. |
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#13 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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wtf is doesnt matter how many miles are on the engine and the safe PSI to run on it. If the motor was well taken care of, and a compression and leak down test prove that, then boost the normal safe limit. but 12 psi on the stock motor sounds like a bit much to me...
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#14 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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12 PSI is plenty safe, for this particular engine-B18B1/B18A1. 14 has been done before, 12 is the ''safe'' limit. The normal standards for stock internals-12 PSI on the pistons, 14 PSI on rods, and 15 PSI on stock sleeves. If you don't know what you're talking about then don't question what I'm saying. |
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