Air Conditioning Line Problems on Right Side Front

[smata67]

I'm still trying to figure out where my right side front clunking sound is coming from. The wheel feels tight right to left and top to bottom and I did the sway bar bushings and links 30K ago, and they appear to still be fine. I have come across some claims as to an issue with A/C condensation possibly causing corrosion on the subframe or right side strut mount, but no details. Can someone point out what this issue might be about and where to check for it?

[phil-l]

Has your van had work performed for the front subframe recall? That might help explain what you're hearing...

[smata67]

I don't think mine had that recall, I never got a notice. I did get the rear axle one, but knew Ford was going to bugger it up, so I didn't do it. I am going to take advantage of the $300 axle replacement, but want to get this clunking resolved before bringing it in.

[12Ounce]

There are a number of clunk makers: the ones you have already resolved, plus ... engine & tranny mounts, steering rack tie ends and outer rod ends, strut upper bearing blocks, lower control arm bushings and ball, sub-frame hangers, .... (I'm just warming up!).....

[scubacat]

Did you ever resolve the clunk? When does it occur - over bumps specifically or randomly? If you bounce the front right corner by hand, do you hear it? (check strut mount)

Grab the tie rod up towards the boot and pull back/forth and up/down fairly HARD. I had a slightly loose inner tie rod that took me forever to track down until I did that. When they're starting to go or took a good shot from a rogue curb or pothole, they can seem tight at first glance but actually be damaged. The Ford inner tie rods could be a bit "beefier" IMHO. (The ones on my Camry are much sturdier for a much lighter and smaller vehicle.)

I'd also pop out the ball joint out of the knuckle just to verify that it's still got some firmness. After a while they get really loose, and, again, it's almost impossible to tell while it's bolted in.

[smata67]

Back to the original inquiry about A/C condensation, I believe the issue is condensation falling onto one of the arms of the control arm or the bracket on the chassis. I do not see anything unusual there, so that is not the problem. The donut mounts also look fine, as do the engine mounts which were replaced 2 years ago. The inner tie rod was replaced to address the clunk and I believe it helped for awhile, but it came back. It was done at TiresPlus with the cheapest part available. I was in for new tires and just had them do it, I usually don't go that route for repairs. I now have motorcraft outer tie rods and control arms that I will have installed this coming week. The clunking does happen when the right side is bounced, but the sound appears to be coming from underneath, not the strut mount, but we will see.

[smata67]

Originally Posted by phil-l

Has your van had work performed for the front subframe recall? That might help explain what you're hearing...

I read the TSB and the subframe attachment point looks to be in good enough shape to not have any work done, it would pass the inspection.

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by smata67

The clunking does happen when the right side is bounced, but the sound appears to be coming from underneath, not the strut mount, but we will see.

I'd head over to harbor freight and buy this ($3.00 right now): http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html If you have ramps, drive it up onto ramps and have someone else bounce the front end and carefully touch the end of that to different spots. It works remarkably well, and you'll have a pretty decent shot at finding the actual source of the clunk rather than throwing parts at it randomly.

[smata67]

That looks like a worthwhile tool to have. I did do the "tube" moving around to different places, but I could not narrow it down. Fact is the van is 17 years old and the boots on the control arm are shot and the bushings are cracked, so no harm in changing the control arm. I got the outer tire rods for $25 each, so why not? If the mechanic changes these and I still get the clunk and he cannot firmly determine what is needed, I will go ahead and do the struts. The springs are corroding anyway. I also plan on getting the rear axle done later this summer under the recall. I bought this van 10 years ago for $6K and other than doing the lower intake gasket myself a few years ago, front bushings and links, and the motor mounts for $800 by a shop some 3 years ago, it has not been a pain. The window motors and regulators a time or two. Anyway, not nearly the issues others have had. A/C still works. Fits a sheet of plywood in the rear. A decent vehicle.

[scubacat]

I have nothing to complain about either. $160 for 6 months of insurance. About the same maintenance you've had; the usual TSBs. I noticed that they didn't spray any foam under the rear axle brackets per the TSB and pointed that out, and they replaced the axle for free last fall. I've done the control arms, sway bar links and bushings a couple of times, struts, etc. If you do struts, get the Motorcraft ones off Rock Auto or another online vendor. They're not significantly more and come with a new boot and bump stop (everything but the mount and spring). Don't waste your time or money on Monroe or KYB quick struts. I tried them both and within 6 months, the "floating" returned. Going on 3 years and the replacement Motorcraft ones still ride like factory new. Get the Motorcraft rear shocks as well. They're just a few bucks more and just as with the struts, still ride very well. They come with new bolts and the funky j-clips as well, a nice little bonus.

Do triple-check the INNER tie rods as well. Yank on it while fully assembled next to the boot with some force and see if it moves or makes noise. If you pop the outer out of the knuckle, you may detect some in&out play as well.

[12Ounce]

Agreed on the inner tie rod ends. Some folks repair/replace them ... i prefer to swap out the whole rack. AutoZone warranties this piece for life ... so you only pay for it once, and save money in the long run, as well as getting renewed boots, shaft seals, etc. And I think it is actually less work to replace the rack as opposed to trying to do a good job replacing the inner rod ends while the rack in in place. My Winnie is about due a rack replacement as well as front struts.

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Agreed on the inner tie rod ends. Some folks repair/replace them ... i prefer to swap out the whole rack. AutoZone warranties this piece for life ... so you only pay for it once, and save money in the long run, as well as getting renewed boots, shaft seals, etc. And I think it is actually less work to replace the rack as opposed to trying to do a good job replacing the inner rod ends while the rack in in place. My Winnie is about due a rack replacement as well as front struts.

How far do you have to drop the subframe to get the rack out? It looks a little tricky but I suppose it's not that bad.

I don't think changing the tie rods is that hard, really. Just borrow the tool from autozone or buy it from harbor freight, unscrew the old, screw in the new. You can reattach the boots with zip ties.

[12Ounce]

I usually install extra long screws and jack-down a couple of inches. It's kinda curious that the rack is hard-bolted to the sub-frame ... no rubber bushings. Don't know how unusual this might be. ??

[scubacat]

There are bushings on mine... are you sure yours just aren't missing? That sounds like it'd put an awful lot of wear on the inner tie rods if something else weren't helping at least absorb some of the subframe vibrations and/or movement! The pressure line has a flexible section so it shouldn't be affected, but the tie rods... yikes...

I think you may want to pop on RockAuto and order yourself the bushings for the next time you have easy access to the rack bolts! I don't believe reman'd racks come with them.

[12Ounce]

At my age its never wise to be sure of anything. On my '99, the steering rack seems to be replaceable as a unit. Of course, the boots and rod ends are serviceable. I'm not sure there are bushings in the bolt holes. I have referred to Haynes, the shop manual, and the on-line Ford parts catalog. Nothing about replacing bushings. In my experience, the splined bolts must be forcefully driven upward out of the aluminum rack body. Yet I see the bushings that Rock Auto offers. These must be an performance upgrade, used along with different bolts ... that I am not familiar with. ??

Other year models may be different. Have you replaced yours? What year model?