Testors Metallizer spray can

[willimo]

The can says to spray it onto bare plastic. I don't know if I believe much in that, so my first attempt to spray it as a color coat on a body was to spray it as a third coat, after Tamiya primer and Tamiya TS-14 black. I did spray a lot of heavy coats, like I always say NOT to do, and the finished product was cracked like salt flats.

I stripped it and am giving it another go, and doing the same thing again. I have painted these metalizers over black before, for wheels and small parts, and never had an issue, so I am thinking that it was to too-heavy coats of the metalizer, as well as painting it over the Tamiya paint the same day I applied the TS-14. So I left the body in my dehydrator for quite some time yesterday, and am going to still wait a week to put the metalizer over the TS-14. Also, I want to spray in this order because I am skeptical of how well the metalizer will take masking, and this way I can spray the window rubbers and black fender flares black, mask them off, spray the body color, then overcoat with semi-gloss clear (also worrisome, at this point...).

TLDR - Testors metalizer spray: will it work as a body color coat after spraying a base coat of TS-14?

Thoughts?

[Some_Kid]

I use aluminum metalizer as my go to for silver body colors. It's the most accurate representation out there for an in scale silver.

I don't see the point in spraying it over black personally. I suppose it would help you see where you are painting. But part of the reason it says to spray over bare plastic is because a plastic surface is completely smooth. Primer, and paint add texture to the surface and take away the fine grain look of the metalizer.

But if you are going to use it as a body color you obviously need primer for a durable finish. So you need to sand the primer to a perfectly smooth surface. Use 2000,2500, or 3000 grit. 3M makes a 3000 grit sponge that makes it a lot easier than it used to be.

Metalizer can't take masking it will come off. You would need to clear coat it first. And even then Ive had instances where tape will can take a patch of clear coat off and leave the metalizer. Probably because the clear doesn't have much to bite too.

It maybe wise to spray the metalizer, then use metalizer sealer, then clear coat. Though Im pretty sure metalizer sealer is just a flat or semi flat lacquer coat. Don't know for sure though.

Here's an NSX i sprayed with aluminum metalizer, then wetlook clear.

[willimo]

That improves my mood, to see that you have used metalizers with other paints and had good success. Thanks!

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by willimo

TLDR - Testors metalizer spray: will it work as a body color coat after spraying a base coat of TS-14?

Definitely. I've used it with good success over Tamiya primer and under TS13.



If I were to do it again now, I would do it exactly as you describe- over a gloss black surface.

I have not tried it out of spray cans- it airbrushes so well that I likely never will. But I think the answer to your problems is exactly the one you mentioned. Take your time, give the solvents a chance to outgas, and it will do what you want it to.

Originally Posted by Some_Kid

But part of the reason it says to spray over bare plastic is because a plastic surface is completely smooth. Primer, and paint add texture to the surface and take away the fine grain look of the metalizer.

I will disagree with you there. Molded plastic can have all manner of flaws. A surface has to be made perfect for painting, they don't come that way. I would much rather work primer to a perfect surface than plastic.

[Some_Kid]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Definitely. I've used it with good success over Tamiya primer and under TS13.



If I were to do it again now, I would do it exactly as you describe- over a gloss black surface.

I have not tried it out of spray cans- it airbrushes so well that I likely never will. But I think the answer to your problems is exactly the one you mentioned. Take your time, give the solvents a chance to outgas, and it will do what you want it to.



I will disagree with you there. Molded plastic can have all manner of flaws. A surface has to be made perfect for painting, they don't come that way. I would much rather work primer to a perfect surface than plastic.

While that's true I'm just saying metalizer was made for non body parts. Part of the ease of it's use for me is that I don't have to prime the plastic. But with a body there's too much risk of damage. It absolutely must be primed.

I spent a great deal of time on that NSX getting the primer perfectly smooth before spraying the metalizer.

OP I also recommend airbrushing instead of the can. Testors spray cans don't have a good reputation.

[da_ashman]

I was skeptical too, but after trying the Stainless steel (airbrushed one) it worked amazingly.
I did a test on raw white plastic & painted black plastic, while it worked on both the one airbrushed over the raw plastic came out heaps better & you can buff it for a more realistic finish. The painted over black didnt buff at all.
Also found masking was pointless as the tape simply removed a layer of paint & didnt buff back.
Your paint problems could be due to the Metalisier being spirit based (correct me if i'm wrong, dont have jar with me, but pretty sure its exactly the same as alclad)
Good luck!