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#1
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Magic Sculp vs Milliput
Someone that can give a statement upon the possible differences between these two part "clays"?
I've used Milliput a few times but find it quite tough to work with. A friend suggested Magic Sculp as it should be easier to prepare and work with. I am trying to make some exhausts pipes that have a pretty complex shape and I'm losing my mind trying to bend styrene or brass tubing in the right angles. |
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#2
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
Can't comment on which putty is best but I would suggest you don't use tubing. I use solid styrene rod which won't kink like tubing and have managed to make some fairly twisty headers.
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Motorsport Modeling |
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#3
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
You could also use plumbing solder in a suitable dimension.
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/i...showtopic=2772 Emil
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Men love women...but even more than that! Men!...Love!...CARS!
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#4
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
I am from the old school. Milliput is a purely british material coming from the past. as everyuthing coming roughly from uk and from the past, it is difficult to use, ...but when u get it after many many trials, it is the best ever. Remember they invent modelling...
Surely too many modern clays are better than it, but for me its simply magic. Very important with milliput is to close it properly when used the first time. Of course they dont provide any serious box that can be closed, just oldstyle thin plastic without any closure. U must avoid it to create the typical "skin", mostly on the darker component. Also too important is to mix it properly , in correct parts and completely.Not easy the first times, may be very useful if somebody can show you live how to do. For me is too cool, includind the oldstyle instructions.....where they explain how to fix that radiator loosing water with it . Lo ve everything from it..the box, the colors, the magic of the past.. ![]()
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Paolo - LoveGT40 Modelworks website www.alsoldatino.com my YT channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIp..._as=subscriber FB: https://www.facebook.com/alsoldatino |
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#5
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
Depending on where you live you might want to buy apoxie sculpt. It is very soft and easy to work with once you mix it but gets over time progressively harder. Donīt worry, youīll have more than enough time to work with it, like 30min-1hour i guess before it gets too hard. I donīt have any experience with Milliput or Magic Sculp but the later is, from my research very similar to apoxie sculpt. The only epoxie i tried was from tamiya but i didnīt like it very much. It was too hard from the start and also veeery expensive compared to apoxie sculpt. Anyway, i am using it for quite some time now and couldnīt recommend it enough. Apart from styrene it is probably the single most important thing i use while modeling.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ale-o For This Useful Post: | ||
joelwideqvist (03-02-2015)
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#6
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
Don't forget Tamiya makes a great two epoxy also!!!
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#7
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
I have tried both Tamiya 2 part and Milliput and find Tamiya to be more expensive but also way easier to work with. I really like the fact that it bonds super strong to styrene and plastic.
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Christophe. |
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#8
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
The few times I've used Tamiya two part putty I've found it really hard to shape when it has hardened.
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#9
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
I've tried to do a chin spoiler for a bike build using the Tamiya type. Spoiler shape is like two concave triangles and I found the Tamiya epoxy REALLY hard to shape. Almost culdn't sand it at all, what do you car guys use for wide body wheel arches wher you seem to sand it down quite easily?
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#10
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Re: Magic Sculp vs Milliput
I've used Magis Sculp a few times, mainly for 'massive parts' like air filters in my Novitech 360, the additional parts under the LaFerrari hood, or also to repair broken pottery figurines, and I think it works quite well. Mixes easily, is put into form well, and can be filed/sanded etc. without problems when hardened. I'm not sure how 'stable' it is if you build complex and fragile parts like longer tubing or pipes, that might break somewhere in the middle.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Kjenjak For This Useful Post: | ||
joelwideqvist (03-05-2015)
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