Key in ignition chime switch problem

[Kirk Franks]

Well I am working on the van today. 2000 Windstar.
Recently (6 months?) the chime that is supposed to come on if you have the key in the ignition but off and open the door does not work. This has contributed to the keys being locked in the van 1 time so far.

So today I am working on something else and low an behold I notice something. If I put the steering wheel in the lowest tilt position then the chime comes on if the key is in the ignition or even if it is not in the ignition. If I tilt the wheel back up to normal driving position then it is back to no chime at all.

So I guess there is something wrong with whatever switch detects the key in the ignition. Problem is I don't know where this switch is at.

Any help or pictures and instructions would be appreciated. This is my wife's van and I have ignored it far too long. Help me be a better husband and get this fixed.

[tomj76]

The switch is part of the key cylinder. It can be accessed by removing the shroud. The cylinder comes out by pressing a pin that is inside a hole under the cylinder.

[Kirk Franks]

Is the chime switch actually part of the lock cylinder or does some part of the cylinder just push on a switch mounted next to it? Reason I ask is the picture online (AutoZone) that i see looks like it has no electrical connections, just mechanical ones. If there is a switch nearby that gets pushed then I don't have to get into having one key for the doors and another to start the car since it has the PATS another type keys.

[tomj76]

It has been a couple of years since I had mine apart ('96), so I'm a little foggy on the details, but I believe the switch is actually integrated into the lock cylinder.

I found a picture of one for sale on e-bay that shows a switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-Ford-Wind...-/231198540763

The switch is the copper part on the right side of the image.

I also remember the debate regarding different keys for the ignition and locks, and choosing to live with an imperfect switch. Also, I checked with Ford and found they sell a kit to replace the cylinder without changing the key, but it isn't cheap (~$200).

If you have a second vehicle, then you can take it apart (not a big job) before buying a new switch. It might be possible to revive it (clean the contacts?) without replacing it.

[Kirk Franks]

Thanks for the additional info. The picture helps. Perhaps I can just pull my current cylinder out and have a look. Might be something easy like corroded contacts that can be cleaned. If I pull the cylinder I and put same one back I don't need to reprogram anything right?

[tomj76]

I can't say for sure that the programming will be OK because I don't have electronic security on my vehicle. However, I'd guess that the key lock is supposed to be a mechanical system and the electronic one is not integrated with the lock.

[Kirk Franks]

OK problem found, but not solved yet.
I had to take out the top and bottom steering column trim and the key cylinder to get my instrument cluster out (separate post.)
When i had that apart i was able to see the "key switch" that is part of the lock cylinder. That "switch" is only half of of the circuit. There is a contact that is supposed to be inserted in the outside edge of the lock cylinder housing. This completed the circuit (when the key is inserted.) On my vehicle the plastic part of this contact that snaps into the lock cylinder housing was broken. Some work was done by Manny Moe and Jack earlier this year that needed the lock cylinder removed so i blame them. Don't really know for sure but the chime did stop working at the same time but we didn't make the correlation at the time.
So any way checking with the dealer this simple contact is part of the "airbag clock spring" assembly. And is very expensive.
I have read another post on some forum with a similar problem and the fix was electrical tape to hold the contact into the lock cylinder housing. I may try that when i have time available. I am not going to purchase the airbag clock spring assembly.