few questions.

[bradfordian]

Just a few questions.

whats peoples thoughts with regards to installing pe parts using clear coat?

I always went by a rule that decals should be applied over a clear coat, whats the best way to apply decals on a clear window part? i dont use future btw.

Whats peoples though with regars to installing clear parts, headlights and windows/screens using clear coat?

thanks.

[MPWR]

1- depends on the part and location- but it is certainly an option I use sometimes.

2- I don't tend to follow hard and fast rules. That said, I usually spray clear over top of decals. But for decals on clear parts, I would probably skip the clear coat.

3- Clear coat is one of several options I consider for attaching clear parts.

[SmokeyR67]

If it doesn't need strength, I use gator glue, if it does, then 15 minute epoxy is the go. Clear coat would be comparable to white glue, so give it a go

[mattbacon]

I don't know what clear coat you mean, but if you're talking about TS-13 or any spray (eg Hiroboy 2k) I wouldn't go near windows with it. It'll almost certainly attack the plastic enough to fog or etch it. I'd only use TS spray over other Tamiya acrylics (I'd have my concerns about using it over decals as well...). If you don't use Future, you might try Humbrol's new Clear, which is similar stuff, and which I would really recommend as a a way to get decals to snug down over complex areas with no silvering. For attaching small parts I use EvoStick Serious Glue, which "grabs" immediately, dries totally clear and is tough and resilient after a few hours. Superglue sticks quickly, but for handles or mirrors and the like, I find it can be broken too easily if you catch the detail after sticking it. For clear parts, there's nothing better in my experience than Formula 560 canopy glue. All PVAs are not created equal, and Formula 560 flows easily, can be wiped down and cleaned up with water to leave no residue while wet, and dries completely, invisibly clear.

bestest,
M.

[bradfordian]

I bought some formula 560 just now on ebay so I will give that a try for the clear window parts.just I dont fancey using reg styrene glue and spoiling a good paint job.thanks for that tip

[stevenoble]

I use PVA glue for photo etch parts if no strength is needed or 5 minute epoxy where I need some strength. You can also use PVA to attach headlight lenses and the like. For windows , especially on Le Mans, rally or road cars I use double sided carpet tape. That stuff sticks like a limpet and there is no chance of damaging the window plastic whatsoever. You don't need to clear coat a window before decals as the window is already smooth so your decals will be fine straight onto the glass parts.

[SmokeyR67]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

You don't need to clear coat a window before decals as the window is already smooth so your decals will be fine straight onto the glass parts.

I forgot to answer that part - They should look like decals on a car window, it's not like you clearcoat your full size windscreen before and after applying a decal.

[Kjenjak]

To attach P/E parts to painted parts or to attach clear parts I almost always use transparent-drying white glue. It's quite strong, it doesn't attack any surface and can be wiped off without leaving traces on finished paints or clear parts, and you can carefully remove it completely and redo the part if anything goes wrong.

If the decal isn't too old I cover it in liquid decal film and apply it to a clear part with Micro Sol. Additional clear paint isn't required.