1996 Chevy K 2500 upper contol arm bushings

[tinkering]

1996 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4:

Will I be able to change the passenger's side upper control arm bushings without separating the ball joint? I need to change the shocks too; will disconnecting the shock increase the maneuverability of the upper control arm enough to get those bushings changed? It would be better if I didn't have to compromise the ball joint by separating it from the control arm.

[Schurkey]

Haven't done that job on a C/K of that generation, but I'd suspect that unless you're installing Polyurethane bushings, you'll have a VERY difficult time getting them pressed out of/into the arms.

Poly would be less work since you melt the rubber bushing, it poops out of the original outer shell. Then you clean up the shell with emery cloth or sandpaper, grease up the Poly bushing and it's inner sleeve, and slide 'em into the original outer shell. All you'd really need is a propane torch, and that's way more maneuverable than a hydraulic press.



Be aware that the PROPER tool will separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without damage to the boot or joint. I bought the front-end service kit from NAPA, (it was their "loaner" set, and I liked it so much I just bought the thing instead of returning it) and I bet one of those tools would work just fine. Same kit available from many other sources. $103 from ToolTopia.
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Haven't done that job on a C/K of that generation, but I'd suspect that unless you're installing Polyurethane bushings, you'll have a VERY difficult time getting them pressed out of/into the arms.

Poly would be less work since you melt the rubber bushing, it poops out of the original outer shell. Then you clean up the shell with emery cloth or sandpaper, grease up the Poly bushing and it's inner sleeve, and slide 'em into the original outer shell. All you'd really need is a propane torch, and that's way more maneuverable than a hydraulic press.

Be aware that the PROPER tool will separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without damage to the boot or joint. I bought the front-end service kit from NAPA, (it was their "loaner" set, and I liked it so much I just bought the thing instead of returning it) and I bet one of those tools would work just fine. Same kit available from many other sources. $103 from ToolTopia.
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx

Thanks a bunch for the info. I am working outside in the winter weather. There is supposed to be freezing rain and snow coming this afternoon. I don't want to get caught in that mess so I think I might see how much the alignment shop wants to change the bushings. Thanks for the future lead on the bushing tool kit too.

[tinkering]

Guess what? I have got my hands into the job after all; I need to take the rotor/hub off (it looks like a one piecer ) so I can change the ABS wheel speed sensor. What size is the hub nut? I measure it up at 1 3/8 in. The parts store doesn't have one. They say it might be metric; what size of metric socket is it? I will check the online conversion. The conversion comes close to 35 mm but a 36 mm socket did the job well; only 32 mm and 36mm are available at my parts store.

How do you get the rotor/hub off of the spindle; do I need a puller or something; should I put the nut on a few threads and give it a good smack with a hammer??

The bushings look pretty straight forward; I will separate the ball joint from the upper control arm and take it over to a hydraulic press to do the bushing switch. It should be fun doing this outside tomorrow with a high of -15 C

[777stickman]

Originally Posted by tinkering

How do you get the rotor/hub off of the spindle; do I need a puller or something; should I put the nut on a few threads and give it a good smack with a hammer??

Look on the back side. I think there's 3 or 4 bolts that have to come out.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by 777stickman

Look on the back side. I think there's 3 or 4 bolts that have to come out.

Turns out I can access the drivers side ABS wheel speed sensor without removing the rotor; it is located behind/ under the brake caliper. It looks like the passenger side might require the rotor to come off; here's hoping that sensor is OK. The rotor on this heavy duty wheel is held to the hub flange by the press fit of the eight wheel studs. I don't have a decent exploded view diagram here but it looks like maybe the 3 or 4 bolts on the backside that you mentioned, have to come out and then the rotor can be separated from the bearing/hub unit by pressing the wheel studs out (or maybe by threading a lug nut on the studs a ways and driving them off). It looks like there are a few different 'Series' of configurations. Mine looks like it might be a 'K Series' configuration; 8600 lb GVW.

I am going to move this information to my other thread: ABS Wheel Sensor Replacement 1996 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4X4. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...97#post7097397

I will follow up in this thread with the procedures and results regarding the replacement of the upper control arm bushings.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Haven't done that job on a C/K of that generation, but I'd suspect that unless you're installing Polyurethane bushings, you'll have a VERY difficult time getting them pressed out of/into the arms.

Poly would be less work since you melt the rubber bushing, it poops out of the original outer shell. Then you clean up the shell with emery cloth or sandpaper, grease up the Poly bushing and it's inner sleeve, and slide 'em into the original outer shell. All you'd really need is a propane torch, and that's way more maneuverable than a hydraulic press.

Be aware that the PROPER tool will separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle without damage to the boot or joint.

It looks like the upper ball joint has been replaced before so it is just a matter of unbolting it from the upper control arm (the rivets are gone); that way I don't need to buy the 'right' tool to avoid damaging the rubber boot with a fork tool; the upper control arm should remove easily.
It's still 20 below so I am going to drive the truck to my friends shop; his hydraulic press will simplify changing the bushings out.
It's an hours highway drive from there to the alignment shop so I am going to be extra careful in marking the adjuster bolts and washers in relation to the control arm so I don't grind all the rubber off of my tires

[tinkering]

WOW! Were those bushings ever rusted into the control arm! I unbolted the ball joint the way I planned (instead of separating the ball joint); it worked good. We used a 30 ton press to push the bushings out. They were VERY stubborn and then wham! they finally moved. The bushing removal tools recommended earlier in the thread would NOT have moved those bushings, period. Today I found a control arm listed in an online parts store, ball joint, bushings and all, for $60. If I would have seen that before I completed the job I would have used it. It went back together easily, and the clunking noises are all gone
I figured now was the time to get grease into all of the steering components. All of the parts had grease nipples except the lower ball joints, so I stabbed the rubber boots with my grease gun needle, and loaded them up!
Thanks a bunch everyone. Automotive Forums is tops.