2000 T & C AWD V6 LX 3.8l Transmission problem - The light of death is on

[jolleyi]

Thought i'd better post this in the correct place
I previously had asked some questions under another posting (see attached)
Short story, transmission went into limp home mode - 2nd gear only
Check engine light on.
Have driven a couple of times since, both where the transmission was fine for a few miles then back into limp mode.
Had the codes checked today and pulled out
PO700 Transmission control system manfunction
Possible causes
- Shorted or open circuit within Transmission Control Module (TCM)
- Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0700_chrysl...#ixzz2n0DbUavJ

P0755 Chrysler - 2/4 Solenoid Circuit
Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty 2/4 solenoid valve
- 2/4 solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- 2/4 solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0755_chrysl...#ixzz2n0EIrb8N

Tranny fluid level is good and clean no burnt smell, (changed filter and fluid at 150K, now have about 184K)

Wondering where would be the best place to start as it's 12F here right now and a bit cold to be checking through all these.
Thanks
Ian

here's my earlier post under New Driveline for 2000 AWD LX T & C 3.8lt http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1088669

Bill, I note you have responded to a few people with transmission problems on Chrysler T & C vans.
Seems i now have one.
Today on my way back up the hill from Reno i noticed a little stuttering almost like the brakes were dragging, then i lost drive, and of course the engine revved up a little. I coasted to the shoulder and the transmission kicked back in, but it seemed only to be in 2nd gear, which allowed me to get home. The check engine light is on and on reflection I should probably have gone to Autozone to get their OBD on it. However, it was really cold and I did not want to get stuck on Mt Rose so i drove on, reached home, still with light on. Stopped and restarted and it did seem to have all gears back (reverse too) but light is still on.
Mine is the 3.8l AWD 2000 T & C with the 4 speed Auto transmission. I have always used the recommended transmission fluid ATF+4 and last changed it and the filter at 150k mile. The van now has 184kmiles. Fluid is very clean, no burnt smell and at the correct level.
I read that this could be a bad earth to the tranny but am not sure where I should be looking. It's dripping lots of salty meltwater at present as we just had a big snowfall, so I don't really want to get under to look without some good idea of where to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Ian
jolleyi is offline Reply With Quote
Unread Yesterday, 06:43 PM #11
jolleyi
AF Newbie
Thread starter

Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: incline village, Nevada
Posts: 35
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Re: New Driveline for 2000 AWD LX T & C 3.8lt
Little more info. Drove the car again, no problem, then after about 2 miles same issue. Would seem to be electrical?
jolleyi is offline Reply With Quote
Unread Yesterday, 08:47 PM #12
Bill Grissom
AF Newbie

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 35
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Re: New Driveline for 2000 AWD LX T & C 3.8lt
Definitely sounds electrical. Don't let anyone sell you on needing the transmission rebuilt. When clutch plates wear out, they don't un-wear. The "stuck in 2nd" is probably just the drivetrain controller noticing a problem and going to "limp home" mode. A common problem with the 3.8L (and 3.3L?) is degraded insulation on the fuel injector wires above the exhaust cross-over. Search for posts w/ photos. That happened to me and mine looked just like other's photos. Fairly easy to repair. In my case, I never experienced "limp home". The engine would just miss sporadically and sometimes stop altogether. I haven't dealt with the ground wire that others talk about.

Another thing that could cause similar is a bad crank signal. That often doesn't set the trouble light. Most commonly, it is because the 8 V power is lost due to problems in the harness. That wire is shared with the cam sensor, and in my 2002 AWD also appeared to go to a box under the front, left fender (ABS controller?) I had to pull my engine harness down, unwrap the loom, and go thru all the wires. Has run great since, w/ no more mis-fires (207k miles now). Good luck.
Bill Grissom is offline Reply With Quote
Unread Yesterday, 10:33 PM #13
Mbriggs
AF Newbie

Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Peterborough, New Hampshire
Posts: 88
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Re: New Driveline for 2000 AWD LX T & C 3.8lt
Figure out what code is causing the check engine light and hope that it's a speed sensor. Limp mode "generally" means a mechanical issue with the tranny, and I've had speed sensors cause this. Is your speedometer acting funky?

FYI: I bought THIS code reader on Amazon and it can't believe that I waited so long to get one. It not only gives the error codes, but also tells what the codes mean. Saved me lots of $, and I bring it when looking at used cars as it can tell if someone has erased or reset the codes recently.

Good luck!!
__________________
00 Caravan 260k - Acquired at 249k
96 Caravan ES 232k - 2nd? Tranny
97 Voyager 175K - 2nd Tranny
96 Honda Accord 165k
97 Nissan Sentra 125k - RIP 11/2013
01 Mercury Sable 89k

5 previous Caravans/Voyagers
Mbriggs is offline

[jolleyi]

Update on progress.
Checked the 2/4 Solenoid per the instructions given here

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrys...oid_test_2.php

Managed to get a reading of 2.5 Ohms so this should be ok (wiring on the connector could be a problem however).
Looks like I need more info on the 700 code from the TCM
Ian

[jolleyi]

Replaced the TCM with one from Pick and pull. Check engine light back on
Put in an extra earth to the Tcm and the solenoid. No success
Replaced the solenoid, and so far all is well. Nervously watching the instrument cluster for that check engine light!
Seems the earlier check on the solenoid with the multimeter did not locate the problem assume therefore that the solenoid had a mechanical issue.
Obtained the solenoid from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rol%20Solenoid

Ian

[Bill Grissom]

jollyi,
Thanks for letting us know how it worked out. That is an affordable price. I recall that the solenoid boxes used to cost ~$500. It sounds like the diagnostic tests only that the coil has electrical continuity. If not, it definitely won't work. Yours was OK, but that doesn't guarantee the solenoid will work. In yours, the valve stem was probably stuck, from debris or such. In most cases, changing a computer box doesn't help (didn't for you). The problems are more commonly in the wiring and connectors.