Lower intake manifold gasket

[reefgeorge]

My 2002 Blazer has 198,000 miles with unexplained coolant loss, rough idle and lifter noise at start up. Can I assume that I need to do the lower intake manifold gasket or are there other things that I should look at to confirm that this needs to be done?

Thanks,

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by reefgeorge

My 2002 Blazer has 198,000 miles with unexplained coolant loss, rough idle and lifter noise at start up. Can I assume that I need to do the lower intake manifold gasket or are there other things that I should look at to confirm that this needs to be done?

Thanks,

If it is getting coolant in the oil yes.
Is the oil milk or pink colored or overfull.
I always add coolant leak dye to coolant and check oil for dye in it.

[reefgeorge]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

If it is getting coolant in the oil yes.
Is the oil milk or pink colored or overfull.
I always add coolant leak dye to coolant and check oil for dye in it.

So that failure only causes internal coolant loss to the crankcase and not coolant loss to the exterior of the engine?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by reefgeorge

So that failure only causes internal coolant loss to the crankcase and not coolant loss to the exterior of the engine?

Have you got any coolant in engine oil?

The intake gasket can leak internal or out the top and front corners and rear corners of engine.
Pressure test and see if you can see any leakage?

[reefgeorge]

I now definitely have coolant in the oil and normal compression in all cylinders so my conclusion is that the intake manifold gaskets needs to be replaced. I see a few options:

Fel Pro Perma Dry Plus (MS98002T), AC Delco redesign (89017866), Victor Reiz (M1S161668).

Which do you suggest?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by reefgeorge

I now definitely have coolant in the oil and normal compression in all cylinders so my conclusion is that the intake manifold gaskets needs to be replaced. I see a few options:

Fel Pro Perma Dry Plus (MS98002T), AC Delco redesign (89017866), Victor Reiz (M1S161668).

Which do you suggest?

How much ,how bad?
How many mile since 2013?
Sure did take a long time to show up.

[reefgeorge]

The truck was pretty much retired for a couple of years. I just started looking at it again to see what I need to get back in service. A few years ago I used to smell coolant in the truck and around the engine compartment occasionally. Now I see an increase in oil level from the coolant. Which gasket set will last the longest?

Thanks

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by reefgeorge

The truck was pretty much retired for a couple of years. I just started looking at it again to see what I need to get back in service. A few years ago I used to smell coolant in the truck and around the engine compartment occasionally. Now I see an increase in oil level from the coolant. Which gasket set will last the longest?

Thanks

I would go fel-pro gaskets

[harleyguy]

If your smelling it inside might check heater core also.

[reefgeorge]

I bypassed the heater core early on but that did not solve the problem. When I am done with the intake manifold gaskets I am going to pressure test the heater core to see if I can put it back online.

Fel Pro it is.

Thanks.

[reefgeorge]

Here is what i have assembled for the job. Am i missing anything?

Fel Pro gasket set
Fuel rail o rings
Permatex ultra black rtv
Inch pound torque wrench
Ft pound torque wrench
Gasket scraper
Acetone
Razor blades
Coolant
Oil

Thanks

[Blue Bowtie]

It may be worthwhile to locate a local source for metal-bearing epoxy filler. Once the intake is removed, gaskets are scraped away, and the heads' intake flanges are cleaned off there is an even chance that you may find some pitting around the coolant openings at the ends of the heads. If so, aggressive wire brushing, cleaning with lacquer thinner/acetone or other solvent, then mixing and applying epoxy to the pitted areas may be the only way to get a good reliable seal. Of course, the areas filled with epoxy need to be scraped and/or filed flat before assembly, but trusting a sealant like RTV to fill any pitting is a crap-shoot.

If you need epoxy filler once you get into the task, at least you'll know where to get it. If you don't need it, it won't be any great loss to at least be prepared with a source.

[Stealthee]

Off shooting on Blues post I once was tasked with fixing a leaking water pump on a 78 Dodge Aspen. Once I pulled the pump off I found why it was leaking. There was a casting fault in the block and a large chunk was literally missing behind the pump.

I informed the owner of the situation and told him I could try and epoxy, but not guarantee it would work. Long story short, I worked the epoxy into the hole, let it set, sanded it flat and the water pump sealed and didn't leak any more.

If epoxy can fix that, then it can correct pitting in the LIM.

[reefgeorge]

I have an aluminum metal filler paste/hardener on hand that I used on a Toyota head years ago that worked very well. I'll make sure that its still good.

Thanks.

[Blue Bowtie]

It sounds as if you are prepared to tackle this. Unless you find a cracked casting you should have it under control