Loud snap when turning right - Rodeo

[dingobait]

1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L MT 263,500 miles 2WD

I often, but not always, hear a loud "snap" when turning left, usually when executing a 90 degree turn.

It's been happening over the past few weeks. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle but hard to be sure from the driver's seat.

No other symptoms. No vibration, no steering wheel shake, no noise while driving. I don't feel anything when I hear it.

I originally thought it may be a U-joint, but now that I found it happens only when turning left, that seems less likely?

Any ideas?

It's a loud snap, could it be an engine or transmission mount?

Thanks,

Mark
HB, Ca.

[amigo-2k]

I could be a busted body mount ... with +200,000 miles I would just turn the radio up and forget it ...

[dingobait]

Thanks Ryan.

That's interesting. Body mount? Where the body mounts to the frame?

I'm not that worried about it, but I would like to see it to at least know what it is.

I can search the manual, but is that what a body mount is?

Thanks again. VERY much appreciated.

[dingobait]

Looking at the body mounts I really couldn't tell much, and it seems to me that if one was broken, I might hear that snap only once?

Now it's getting to where it's happening more often, and not only when turning.

It now appears to be something in the drive train, and it appears to be an external vs internal "snap".

I pulled the drive-shaft and am changing the U-joints, hoping it's one of them that's popping when torque is applied to it. They are the original joints......

I can't feel anything bad moving them by hand, but I can't apply any real torque.

If that isn't it, back to the drawing board.

If it was something in the transmission, wouldn't I likely hear it more while driving vs just sometimes during initial torque?

Thanks...

[amigo-2k]

Jack up the rear, block the front wheels, put it in N and spin the rear wheels ... maybe there is something in the rear end that is letting loose....

[dingobait]

I"ll try that.

As soon as the U-joints were done and I put it back together, I grabbed my neighbor who used to race and worked on tons of cars, and we pulled out of the driveway, hung a left, and there it was, a REALLY loud snap.

We drove across town and back so that he could try to help me pinpoint where it was coming from. We both agree that is sure sounds like it's in the suspension.

When turning left, it loads up and then snaps loudly. If I take it easy I can avoid it, but that's not always practical in traffic.

The only way I can describe the sound is like if you had 2 metal plates whose edges overlapped by an inch or so and were pushing against each other from opposite directions and once the pressure was high enough they popped past each other. It's loud.

The mystery is that it keeps happening. It keeps loading up. Nothing is breaking off. And my copilot agrees that it sounds like it's external. It doesn't sound like anything in the trans or in the axle. It echoes off whatever's around.

It seems to be coming from the passenger side, between mid vehicle and front.

The only thing I can think of that would load up with that kind of pressure would be the torsion bars that run down each side, like they were jumping the splined teeth, but that doesn't seem feasible, and they don't look they've moved. I'm going to paint some marks on them just to see, but it doesn't seem plausible (to me).

It's loud enough that it seems something would be dangling by now.

I'll be back underneath tomorrow in the daylight.

The challenge is intriguing for certain.

All I know right now is that it's definitely NOT the u-joints.

And I know that I can't rock the car enough when it's sitting still, and rocking it back and forth quickly while driving doesn't make it happen either.

It happens when turning left 90 degrees, and I don't have to be getting on it hard, just a medium speed turn, and most always when taking off from a stop, like at a stop sign or traffic light. It loads up, then snaps.

I can make it happen repeatedly, but if I take it easy it doesn't always occur.

Thanks Ryan. I appreciate the input and I'll check that out.

[dingobait]

I've been all over underneath and can't find anything that looks unusual. I even pulled the front tires off and looked but still nothing.

I have the rear wheels elevated with it in neutral and am spinning them by hand but no noise. There's no clunking when switching between rolling one forward and then reversing it.

I'm stumped right now.

If it was a body mount broken bolt would that make the noise repeatedly or just when it snapped initially? I've looked at the body mounts and don't see anything unusual visibly. I've revved the engine to check the motor mounts and the trans mount looks ok.

It happens when turning left only, and usually from a stop.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mark
HB, Ca

[dingobait]

I just found it!

Should be a simple fix if I can get the part. Really simple.

I'll post more later on what it was.

[dingobait]

The issue is that the rubber plates on the forward end of the RH upper link are gone (disintegrated) which lets the upper link slam against the frame during a left hand turn.

I can slam it against the frame by hand, and that's the sound I was hearing.

I can't believe I overlooked this, but at 263K at least I have new u-joints.

Now to see if I can find the rubber plates.

Nice!

[dingobait]

I placed them on order through the Parts Distribution Warehouse since it's too obscure a part to be stocked at local auto parts stores.

Of course they refer to them as bushings instead of rubber plates. I hope they're the right part.

The part I ordered, which turns out to be the same part number one of the local Honda dealers referenced is 897125086-1 for $9.44 each (I ordered 4, 2 for each side since the bushings on the drivers side seem pretty worn as well).

I'll report back when I have the parts in hand which is estimated at 3-4 days.

[gmtech1]

Originally Posted by dingobait

The issue is that the rubber plates on the forward end of the RH upper link are gone (disintegrated) which lets the upper link slam against the frame during a left hand turn.

I can slam it against the frame by hand, and that's the sound I was hearing.

I can't believe I overlooked this, but at 263K at least I have new u-joints.

Now to see if I can find the rubber plates.

Nice!

Glad you found it! Persistence pays off, thanks for keeping us informed and posting what you found...Good job!

[dingobait]

I finally got the bushings today and I'll hopefully get them installed this weekend.

Has anyone on the forum replaced the upper-link bushings?

They're press fit into the ends of the upper link, and I'm wondering just how much force will be required to remove them and to press the new ones in.

The service manual says to "Remove the rubber bushing by using remover J–xxxxx–x", which is called the "Remover and Installer; Upper link bushing", but I'm not sure that tool is readily available.

I figure I may be able to use some kind of general press?

Has anyone replaced these?

Will I maybe be able to fashion some way to press them out using a vise and improvising a tool?

Perhaps a general tool such as the "Neiko Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Repair for Ford, GM & Chrysler (OTC-7068) by Neiko" would work?

These bushings ARE used on GM vehicles as well.

I may see what type of tool the local auto parts stores will rent/loan.

Any input welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

[dingobait]

Before starting, I stopped in to see a local mechanic I've known for years to see if he'd let me use his press.

He offered to install my parts for $160.00, which precluded me from having to wrestle with a 3/4 full fuel tank on the ground in the driveway.

He used his hydraulic lift of course which made the job much easier.

2.5 hours later the job was done and all is well.

I still saved myself lots of money by troubleshooting the issue myself and procuring the parts on my own which avoided any further markup.

I showed them which bushings they were while it was up on the lift and I'm back on the road with 4 new upper link bushings and new U-joints.

The noise the upper link was making was not something I could ignore, and the one on the driver's side (forward) was starting to bang as well.

Having all 4 replaced at once was the best way to go at $9.44 each.

Finished.

One last note: When buying the parts through the Parts Distribution Center, they ordered them using my VIN. I didn't need the "rubber plates" shown in the official Isuzu Rodeo shop manual. The bushings themselves were shot through and through, and were no longer dampening the side to side movement when turning, allowing the upper link arms themselves to bang against the frame.

Til next time.

Mark
Huntington Beach, Ca.

Thanks everyone. This is a great forum. I was contacted last week for the write up I did outlining all of the steps for replacing the fuel regulator, so it all comes around and goes around.