Need advice....

[Sp3cops70]

2000 explorer Eddie Bauer. It has 136,000 miles and still drives great.....thank god. My father gave me the truck. Now every time I crank the key....the majority of the time it won't start. Meaning it keeps trying to turn on but won't...so what needs to be done everyday in order for it to start.......is to push on the gas pedal at least 3-4 times for it to start. Why??

Could it be the spark plugs? Wires? Any ideas?

Also I don't think my father has given it a tune up.....ever. Thx.

[Sp3cops70]

One more thing. Every now and then the abs light comes out. Right when it comes out and I am braking I feel the pedal loosen.....meaning it loosens up and it pushes down at least an inch further. It still stops but why? Thx.

[shorod]

If I'm understanding your first post correctly, the starter motor continues to spin the engine over, but the engine does not start unless you press the accelerator while the engine is cranking. Is that accurate? Does it seem any better or worse once the engine is up to temperature and shut off? Do you have access to a fuel pressure tester?

Once it starts, does it idle and run well, or do you need to continue giving it throttle to keep in running?

If you're not aware of it ever having had a tune up, the following suggestions will be money well spent in the long run, even if they don't fix the immediate starting issue. I'd certainly suggest you start there with spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, and a fuel filter. You also should consider removing the intake air inlet tube at the throttle body, open the throttle plate, and clean the backside of the throttle plate as well as inside the intake manifold and throttle body with throttle body cleaner. You should also plan to remove the Idle Air Control servo and clean the valve part of that along with the corresponding passages in the throttle body.

When you're buying the two or three cans of throttle body cleaner at the store, you might also want to pick up a can of SeaFoam. Read the directions for performing a cylinder de-carbonization. Instead of using only 1/3 can, I've had better results with using 1/2 can. I haven't really experienced any benefits to using more than 1/2 can on a single application.

-Rod

[Sp3cops70]

Rod wow u are very helpful. Now yes it keeps turning without turning on. I must press the pedal before or during crank. Yes it seems better after it is warm n has been driven. Autozone might lend me a tester....why? Any ideas?

As far as the other stuff is there a step by step online manual or video. Not up to speed with mechanic work. Thx.

Originally Posted by shorod

If I'm understanding your first post correctly, the starter motor continues to spin the engine over, but the engine does not start unless you press the accelerator while the engine is cranking. Is that accurate? Does it seem any better or worse once the engine is up to temperature and shut off? Do you have access to a fuel pressure tester?

Once it starts, does it idle and run well, or do you need to continue giving it throttle to keep in running?

If you're not aware of it ever having had a tune up, the following suggestions will be money well spent in the long run, even if they don't fix the immediate starting issue. I'd certainly suggest you start there with spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, and a fuel filter. You also should consider removing the intake air inlet tube at the throttle body, open the throttle plate, and clean the backside of the throttle plate as well as inside the intake manifold and throttle body with throttle body cleaner. You should also plan to remove the Idle Air Control servo and clean the valve part of that along with the corresponding passages in the throttle body.

When you're buying the two or three cans of throttle body cleaner at the store, you might also want to pick up a can of SeaFoam. Read the directions for performing a cylinder de-carbonization. Instead of using only 1/3 can, I've had better results with using 1/2 can. I haven't really experienced any benefits to using more than 1/2 can on a single application.

-Rod

[Sp3cops70]

Brakes? Thx

[Sp3cops70]

Anyone...ideas on brakes?? Thx

[shorod]

The fuel pressure tester would provide one more data point - either the fuel pressure is good when the issue happens, or not so good.

As for replacing the spark plugs and wires, there might be an online video for your particular engine, but I wouldn't count on it. They're generally not terribly bad if you have a variety of 3/8" ratchet extensions, a decent spark plug socket, and maybe some 3/8" universal joints. The passenger side spark plugs are a bit easier to do if you jack up the truck, safely support it, and remove then wheel, then go over the upper control arm to get to the plugs.

As for the brakes, it sounds like maybe the ABS control unit is engaging one or more brakes, causing the brake pedal to feel like it's sinking. Since the ABS light has come on, there should be a stored diagnostic code, but it will require a specific scan tool that is able to access the ABS system. I haven't heard of any parts stores having an ABS scan tool available in their loan-a-tool program yet.

If you're unable to source an ABS scan too and don't want to pay a shop to pull the code or codes for you, you can roll the dice and replace the rear ABS sensor on the rear differential. That's a pretty common ABS sensor to fail on your generation of Explorer.

-Rod

[Sp3cops70]

thx guys.