Inner Tie Rod R&R

[tempfixit]

98 WIndstar, 3.0L, 231K

I need to install a new Inner Tie Rod on the passenger side. Do I need to get a Inner tie rod tool or is there enough room to use a adjustable wrench. I have a 1 1/4 wrench but I do not think I have the 1 5/16 wrench. I can get the tool from Oriely's Loan a Tool Program but if I do not need to waste the gas that would be great.

The directions say that I need to remove the driver side bellow also to hold the rack from moving, any tips.

Thanks

[Plata]

if the inner rod is what i think it is, you should lower a little the front axle, form it rear side, you should support it with a suitable jack, remove both rear bolts (just the rear ones) and the lower the jack completely.

in this way the sterring column will now be very much accessible from the back of the engine (i forgot to say that the vand shoul be lifted and properly supported to make possible to enter down the van)

when done, now you could remove the dust cover and also remove the nut of the steering arm, and also all the arm with the outer rod on it (you should remove the outer rod from the damper to)

and well, now just replace it, tighten it and then litf the front axle and replace it in it place, put on the bolts, and tight it.


well, i expect that this was usefull,

i have to say that, when google "windstar rod" i find the rod that its attached to the damper, so i supose that the inner one, was the rod that is at the other side of the steering arm, and that is attached to the hidraulic steering column.

PS: sorry for the spelling mistakes bro, i don't know very well the english language.


Greetings from México

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

98 WIndstar, 3.0L, 231K

I need to install a new Inner Tie Rod on the passenger side. Do I need to get a Inner tie rod tool or is there enough room to use a adjustable wrench. I have a 1 1/4 wrench but I do not think I have the 1 5/16 wrench. I can get the tool from Oriely's Loan a Tool Program but if I do not need to waste the gas that would be great.

The directions say that I need to remove the driver side bellow also to hold the rack from moving, any tips.

Thanks

You can use a plumbers wrench, which costs less than $10 at a hardware store. To remove the boot use bent nose or long-reach needle nose pliers to remove the pressure clip in front. The larger clip at the back needs to be cut for removal, it is not reusable. Use a zip tie in its place when you put the boot back on. If you only lift one wheel off the ground the rack won't move so no need to hold it.

[12Ounce]

Thus far, I have just replaced the whole rack when any part of it shows wear, including the inner tie rods. AutoZone has a life-long warranty on this part ... so you only pay the first time. Something to consider ... this way you get new boots and refreshed rack gearing. I would say the replacement work, in total, is in the same ball park of effort.

[tempfixit]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Windstartled I will check out the plumbers wrench.

12Ounce, the rack and pinion is not leaking at this point and the cost is a little more than I want to spend at this time since I am not back to work yet for the season, and I have already gotten a Moog inner tie rod from ebay for $15 shipped to my door.

thanks

[scubacat]

Don't you have to drop the subframe to get the rack out? How bad is it removing the lines?

[tempfixit]

I believe you do have to drop the subframe to get the rack out.

Today I tried a slip-nut wrench, did not work. Rented the inner tie rod tool from Oriely's, waste of my time. The tool they have does not work on the Windstar. Autozone has the same style of tool.

THE INNER TIE ROD TOOL NEEDS TO BE THE ONE THAT HAS THE 1 5/16 CROWFOOT TYPE.

Needless to say I was unsuccessful in changing the inner tie rod today. I will need to get the tool from Harbor Fieght when I can afford it.

NEW QUESTION:
One thing I noticed today when jacking up the front passenger side the tire where it contacts the pavement was moving outward quiote a bit as tire was going up. I checked for any play but I found none except for the tie rod movement. Could this be a bad wheel bearing????? At times it does seem like I hear a little growling noise but I am not sure which wheel it comes from.

Thoughts-Thanks

[12Ounce]

I usually drop the rear subframe a bit by turning (not removing) the attaching bolts a few turns. Is it absolutely necessary? I doubt it, but it makes for a little more working room... so why not?

[scubacat]

How hard is it to reach the lines? Don't you have to change the Teflon seal on the high pressure hose?

[12Ounce]

Unfortunately, I don't remember the exact style of the hose connection on the Windstar rack. I do remember they are the same, the high and low pressure, .... the same style fitting for each. So its possible to locate them incorrectly ... take care! Best to loosely attach the hoses before the rack is finally mounted.

Also remember that the rack hold-down bolts are splined ... they have to be tapped out with a hammer once the nut is removed.

[scubacat]

A shop changed mine a few years ago but I just want to prepare myself in case it comes up again. Apparently there's enough room to guide it out the left wheel well without too much hassle. I'm well aware of getting those lines started while it's loose, too. I cross-threaded a brake line fitting once and learned that lesson. I doubt I'll ever make that mistake again!

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

NEW QUESTION:
One thing I noticed today when jacking up the front passenger side the tire where it contacts the pavement was moving outward quiote a bit as tire was going up. I checked for any play but I found none except for the tie rod movement. Could this be a bad wheel bearing????? At times it does seem like I hear a little growling noise but I am not sure which wheel it comes from.

It's my understanding that with this type of suspension it's normal that the bottom of the tire moves out -resulting in negative camber- when a front wheel is lifted off the ground, even though this may appear counter-intuitive at first glance.

If it seems to travel out more than usual check ball joints first thing, if they're bad you'll need to replace the whole control arm. It's a medium difficulty job, the tough part is fitting the bushings on the frame where the control arm attaches.

One thing you can do to check for bad bearing is lift both front wheels off the ground and put the transmission in drive. Observe the wheels from all angles as they spin and check for wobble as you listen for a grinding noise. This is also useful to check for brake pad friction.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by Windstartled

It's my understanding that with this type of suspension it's normal that the bottom of the tire moves out -resulting in negative camber- when a front wheel is lifted off the ground, even though this may appear counter-intuitive at first glance.

If it seems to travel out more than usual check ball joints first thing, if they're bad you'll need to replace the whole control arm. It's a medium difficulty job, the tough part is fitting the bushings on the frame where the control arm attaches.

One thing you can do to check for bad bearing is lift both front wheels off the ground and put the transmission in drive. Observe the wheels from all angles as they spin and check for wobble as you listen for a grinding noise. This is also useful to check for brake pad friction.

Lower Control arm and ball joint are both new on both sides.

EDIT:
I work on vehicle again today and found that the New lower control arm (Carquest part) that I installed 3,000 miles ago is bad, has play in it. When I installed it it did not seem right in the ball joint, I could not move it the way I should have and had a hard time getting grease in it, I remember telling the people at Carquest after installing it. Warranty time.

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

.....I could not move it the way I should have and had a hard time getting grease in it, ......

So how should you be able to move a new ball joint? Surely not by hand, at least I never expect to. I expect to have to move it using a lever or a hammer. And it should be difficult to get grease in it, I believe.

So where/what sort of play does it now have? ... in the ball joint?

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

So how should you be able to move a new ball joint? Surely not by hand, at least I never expect to. I expect to have to move it using a lever or a hammer. And it should be difficult to get grease in it, I believe.

So where/what sort of play does it now have? ... in the ball joint?

The ball joint is loose in the socket and can be moved by moving the tire.

Yes the new ball joint should be tight and hard to move, I do not ever remember using a hammer to move a ball joint for assembly into spindle. I did get some grease into the joint and boot area but the pressure wanted to push the grease gun fitting off the zerk. I have heard a clunck when turning while backing out of parking for sometime.. Now I know where it is coming from.


Evidentally something was not right from the start as it is worn out in 3,000 miles.