Brake problems 96 chevy 1500

[dirtautoguy12]

I am wondering about my passenger side disk brake when it's jacked up and I spin the tire it gets harder to spin and easier to spin do I need new rotors or get them turned? Also when I spin the tire fast sometimes something clicks sometimes a few times fast in a row sometimes once and more times then not not at all thanks for the help

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

I am wondering about my passenger side disk brake when it's jacked up and I spin the tire it gets harder to spin and easier to spin do I need new rotors or get them turned? Also when I spin the tire fast sometimes something clicks sometimes a few times fast in a row sometimes once and more times then not not at all thanks for the help

Need more info.
Any nose driving it?
Any brake pedel hick back?
Does turning wheel left or right or straight ahead make any differance when spinning wheel?
Is clicking from wheel bearing or axel joint or front rear end?
Can you shake wheel in and out at top or bottom?
Pull tire and back brake pads off and see if that changes things?
Is rotor or bearing hot after driving it?

[dirtautoguy12]

The truck pulsates when braking but the brake pedal feels firm and doesn't kick back or anything. And the clicking can sometimes be heard in the cab while driving and it seems like it does it more when I'm turning left wouldn't that be a cv axle? And I'll look at the other things soon As I can thanks.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

The truck pulsates when braking but the brake pedal feels firm and doesn't kick back or anything. And the clicking can sometimes be heard in the cab while driving and it seems like it does it more when I'm turning left wouldn't that be a cv axle? And I'll look at the other things soon As I can thanks.

Go for a front axel joint first but feel wheel bearins and check rotors while you are at it.
Let us know how it goes.

[dirtautoguy12]

so just for kicks I took my truck to big O, I know the owner pretty well, to get another opinion. they looked at it for free they said that the cv axle was fine but it is the wheel hub assembly on its way out but it just barely started to go out so its not a emergency. also that the rotor is warped ill let you know when I get to looking at more things i want to make sure thats it before I go replacing things.

[dirtautoguy12]

So I pulled the brake off today and looked at the hub I couldn't make the click sound I had been hearing from that side but I did find out that there is just a little bit of slop just barely a little bit (less then a quarter inch) and only when I pulled up towards the sky on it. Also the clicking sound seems to happen more after I have turned hard left. Next, I found out that there is a wire that goes into the hub that is either melted or rubbed in couple different places but in one spot it looks like the insulation is all the way gone, I believe this is my abs sensor isn't it?

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

I did find out that there is just a little bit of slop just barely a little bit (less then a quarter inch) and only when I pulled up towards the sky on it.

WHAT is "it"? The hub? The rotor? The caliper?

You have play in the hub, the wheel bearings are shot. I'm thinking it's a sealed assembly, you buy a complete hub/bearing unit. Cheap ones are Chinese, and total junk. You'll pay good money for a quality, durable hub/bearing assembly. I'd buy a used hub from a lower-mileage donor vehicle than buy a NEW Chinese hub.
You have play in the rotor, there's probably nothing wrong. It's a slip-fit on the hub studs. Tightens down with the lug nuts. No lug nuts--it wobbles around.
You have play in the caliper, there may or may not be something wrong.

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

Also the clicking sound seems to happen more after I have turned hard left.

Clicks AFTER you've turned left? Wheel bearing? Clicks DURING a left turn? Outer CV joint.

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

Next, I found out that there is a wire that goes into the hub that is either melted or rubbed in couple different places but in one spot it looks like the insulation is all the way gone, I believe this is my abs sensor isn't it?

Yup. First guess: the wire will be corroded green under the insulation, you'll end up replacing a foot or more of the harness to get back to copper-colored wire. At least, that's what happened on my Lumina. I had to take out nearly two feet of wire before I found un-corroded wire to splice to.

[dirtautoguy12]

The hub has the slop but its only the one direction and its just a little bit would it be ok for a while? Far as I know it could have 215000 on it I don't know if the company that owned it ever fixed them. After I turn left it clicks. And would a new hub come with that sensor wire? Otherwise is there a specific wire I need to use? The broken place is right down almost against the hub I don't know if I could get to it.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

The hub has the slop but its only the one direction and its just a little bit would it be ok for a while?

The HUB has play?

Do you mind having to chase down the front wheel after it separates from the vehicle? Does it matter if you get into a collision when the control arm digs into the pavement, turning the front of the vehicle uncontrollably to one side? Willing to attend the funeral of the pedestrian the wheel hits as it bounces down the street? When the hub lets go, the only thing holding the wheel will be the brake caliper; and it wasn't designed to retain the rotor.

If none of that bothers you, it's a matter of mind over matter. You don't mind, it doesn't matter.

My Honda was hit by a loose wheel that separated from a car that the owner and his friend had just done a brake-job on. After nailing my fender, the wheel continued two blocks down the street, until it ran into a sign in front of one of the businesses. Could have gone a quarter-mile. I have very little sympathy for loose wheels.

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

And would a new hub come with that sensor wire? Otherwise is there a specific wire I need to use? The broken place is right down almost against the hub I don't know if I could get to it.

I'd expect the new hub comes with a sensor and the molded plastic connector that the harness plugs into. If the damage is to the harness, you're going to need--at minimum--a new "pigtail", the plastic connector to plug into the sensor. That connector typically comes with a foot or so of wire attached, and you'd cut the harness back to good copper, solder the pigtail to the good part of the harness, and plug the connector into the sensor on the new hub. Talk to the parts-store or salvage yard that you buy the replacement hub from. Either one should be able to supply that section of wire harness and the plastic connector.

[dirtautoguy12]

I replace the hub today and yes it came with the new wires and studs. The old hub actually got so hot that it blued part of the hub is that normal with a hub oing ou or should I be worried about something else making that much heat? Everything I looked at looked ok, it didn't look like anything what's wearing or rubbing.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by dirtautoguy12

I replace the hub today and yes it came with the new wires and studs. The old hub actually got so hot that it blued part of the hub is that normal with a hub oing ou or should I be worried about something else making that much heat? Everything I looked at looked ok, it didn't look like anything what's wearing or rubbing.

I don't know without looking at it. (Maybe not even then...)

Wouldn't surprise me that the bearing got hot enough to discolor steel. Also wouldn't surprise me that the steel was heat-treated during the manufacture of the hub so it got hot enough to discolor.

Glad you got the ABS taken care of as well.