Hanging caliper

[Trio3b]

Had thread here a while back but can't find it now so..

1993 PA 3.8L base model

left front pads wear out twice as fast as right. This has gone on since I owned car ( 2000)
Over the years I have replaced caliper THREE times, flex brake line ( we thought of collapsed line), inspected all steel lines and master cylinder once or twice.

Local mechanic and I have finally come to the conclusion that this probably began happening when ABS went out. Light came on, ABS no longer worked and I disconnected ABS solenoid and dash light. Didn't have the $$ to replace. Brakes have always been bled properly and did all four wheels several times. I believe proportioning valve is in master cylinder.

Here's what we think is happening- When ABS went out, the actuators in the ABS valve came to rest in a partially closed position. Whenever change pads, it is very difficult to push piston back in on that wheel compared to other side. Yes I normally crack bleed valve but did it without opening bleed valves just to test my theory. I think those valves are partially closed off to that wheel. It's just not probable that 3 new calipers, new line, 2 new master cylinders have been bad. I read another thread elsewhere where it did turned out to be exactly what I'm describing.

Mech and I want to reapply voltage to solenoid to see if I get lucky and get valves to come to rest in open position. Bad news is they could come to rest in closed position too.

Any thoughts? And how can I correct this? Car is now not worth much now but has great engine and new rebuilt tranny.

Thanks

[maxwedge]

After driving, spin the suspect wheel see if it drags more than the other, if so crack the bleeder see if it loosens up. If it does, drive it again, crack the line at the abs unit if there is residual pressure there you may be right, if not you need to check out from there down. I have disconnected many GM abs units on older cars and never had this happen.

[Trio3b]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

After driving, spin the suspect wheel see if it drags more than the other, if so crack the bleeder see if it loosens up. If it does, drive it again, crack the line at the abs unit if there is residual pressure there you may be right, if not you need to check out from there down. I have disconnected many GM abs units on older cars and never had this happen.

Did as suggested and cracking line at ABS loosens the spin. Took a chance and applied 12v to the ABS unit and it now seems both wheels spin about the same. Also drove around a bit and left wheel no longer brutally hot compared to right. Maybe this fixed it.

The test will be in several months when it's time to check pads.

Thanks for the tip

[la1]

could be the sliders for the caliper