97 2.2 abs brake lights on

[comet240]

hi i trying to trace why the ABS light is on

i checked the fuse its fine i swapped the relay on all 4 brakes i unplugged the sensor wire and put a wire across the connector to short it out and i did same for the 2 brake relays and the low brake fluid level and still its on

what would cause it or where would i even look? and if i have to recheck each brake connector what would the voltage be when not pressing on the brakes

[comet240]

so i have bled the rear bunch of times i did driver side and then passenger side got told to do that first but i read not to but at this point dont think it matters

light is on and the pledle still goes close to floor yet no air coming out of lines
it has the ABS and the solidnoide pack on the top of the master clyinder there i bleed those 2 valves no air

read more online they talk about using a tech1 tool to make the valves stay open? but come on i dont have that is there a way to do this ? i figured turn key on a couple times i dunno

what is a way to do this as this is anonying there has to be a way

[Tech II]

Back up....was brake work done on the vehicle? Was there a leak or did the master reservoir ever get too low?

If the ABS light is on, a code is set.....you need to read the code with an ABS capable scanner.....

Was the pedal going to the floor before or just after you did work on it?

[comet240]

i replaced new lines from the master clyinder right to back into new flex rubber hoses then into new line into new rear brake clyinders both side

the ABS light and the brake light are on

i dont have a scanner that can read ABS light i do have the HP Tuners tool and the Scan Tool from Canadian Tire the 300 dollar one but you need to pay 100 bucks to add on the ABS feature but wont tell all ABS issues i been told


pedal just after the work done like if i pump the pedal its tight if the car is off but when you start it then it likes to go almost to the floor but shut it off and it builds pressure no problem

[comet240]

i going to i guess replace the front calipers and flex hoses

one side just stripped the bleeder valve so couldnt even untighen it and other side the bleeder screw snapped clean off
so figure maybe if i replace thsoe and the flex hoses it fix it all?

[Tech II]

There should be no problem with the front, if there wasn't before....

Did you try gravity bleeding the lines or, the best way, use a vacuum pump to suck the fluid to the rear brakes(making sure fluid level is ok in the master cylinder reservoir).....

[comet240]

no gravity just pumped it a few times then press to floor then release, press to floor, release, did that 10 times

and still abs light is on and pedal still trys to go to floor when car is running but stifff when its off

so what does that mean

[comet240]

ill make my own vacume pump version as the one at c-tire is 80 bucks and i already have a vacum pump for doing A/C's 1.5 so that is good enough just use a jar

and if that doesnt work then what? and i cant bleed front

but only work i done on front was press it back to put new pads on

[Tech II]

The only time you would have a problem with the front, if you opened it up, or if you allowed the reservoir to get too low......

no gravity just pumped it a few times then press to floor then release, press to floor, release, did that 10 times

and still abs light is on and pedal still trys to go to floor when car is running but stifff when its off

so what does that mean?

It means you screwed up.......you replaced brake lines all the way to the rear, did not gravity bleed them, so they are full of air, and you think you are going to bleed them by pumping the pedal? Pumping the pedal with air in the system does nothing......

Open the rr bleeder....make sure reservoir is full......now just let the line to rr gravity bleed.....may take a long time with all the air in the system(faster method with mechanical vac pump)....something like a an electric pump could pull a vac too fast, and suck that reservoir dry and then you start admitting air again......

If you have luck gravity bleeding, like I said, it will take awhile, then close bleeder and do the same to the LR bleeder.....once bled, now you need a second person.....Have them slowly pump the brake pedal a couple of times, then hold pressure to the pedal......now open the RR bleeder.....pedal should go to floor.......keep foot on pedal on the floor....close bleeder......slowly pump the pedal and hold pressure again......open bleeder......hold pedal on floor......close bleeder.....repeat as many times it takes until only fluid comes out and no spits of air.......then do the same to the LR side.....

Keep an eye on the reservoir, that the fluid level doesn't drop too much during bleeding....add fluid as necessary.....then check your pedal.....

[comet240]

ah ok i have no idea now i did the brake lines last year so it sat for a year before i just worked on it again car never started all this time

so even though i have someone pump the brake and i have no air spitting out it has air in it? e pe

ill just use my vacum pump and pull the flurid as when i do the pedal thing i dont get air at all just fluid

but ill re try again frustrating though

[comet240]

so i made a bleeder vacume with a glass coffee jar i did the passenger rear and i couldnt get a good seal on the bleeder valve with the hose so it took a long time to suck fluid through but i did a half a jar roughly i pulled i guess a half a liter and then i closed off the valve and did the driver rear it sucked worse and then it stopped sucking fluid and just started sucking air outside on the sides of the tube even pulling valve off and wait for gravity to come it didnt come anymore and i even put hose flush with the hole no fluid , so i put the plug back in and had my mother press on the brakes and pump doing regular bleeding no air just brake fluiid then did the rear passanger

but still air in it but it cant be in the lines going to the back has to be to the front ones right? as its tight on the back when you press the brake jsut lights are still on and the pedal is soft then hard but when engine off its always stiff

[comet240]

ok so i got fed up and since i trying to get this car on the road for certfiying i decided to replace the front calipers and still no luck still has air, i have never had so much difficulty after doing new lines

are there bleeder screws that are longer that you can buy? like with a stepped other end so you can slide a hose on and it wont suck air and ill re try with vacum pump as i dont know where there is air

[comet240]

l like to know how fast should a vacume pump be pulling the brake fluid out of the lines as mine isnt

i twisted a wire on the on hose to the brake bleeder valve so it cant suck air really and i put plastersine around it and the 2 fittings that go into the jar one is the brake hose other is the vacume pump yet its not sucking the fluid through fast and still sucking air whats up with that? figured it should be sucking a stream of fluid


and are there fittings with hose nipples that tread into the valve holes?

[comet240]

ok i stuck
i rented a brake bleeder vacume pump mechanical
now using that is almost impossible to use as it takes forever to suck easier if i suck on the hose

so i hooked it to my 1.5cfm vacume pump it sucked it through with air you see i guess cuz the hose is thicker but it sucked it through, i did 5 bottles and kept toping it off i noticed the driver back is very hard to suck through is that normal?

but when i did that and i bymyself i pressed on the brake and it never built up pressure why would it not have pressure??? after i sucked fluid through


then i started car and it was even worse no brake so that means it put air in the system i take it? how do you properly suck the brakes vacume style?

[comet240]

soi today i have retried the hand pump doing rear passenger i suck and it sucks the fluid but not like a straw without air its constantly sucking air but sicked the fluid through

i did the 2 screws under the hood by the resovoir same deal sucks air i guess it cant suck it cleanly through

now i did the rear driver it sucked up the fluid like a straw and was filling slowly then either by chance or what not it started sucking air but and down it sucked -20 hg without and fluid coming through

that the the valves under the hood closed that it doesnt allow it to flow smoothly? if so how you make them go open? put 12 volts to them have car running? or what can home mechanic do?