Rubber boot on shift rod into transaxle...92 5-spd

[SchlockRod]

Hey has anyone replaced this part?
It looks like the rod has to come out of the transaxle to do this, because the external end of the rod has a T-shape where it bolts up to the linkage - I think the new rubber would never fit over that T.
Is that the case, and if so, how hard is it to get that rod out of the transaxle?
This boot is all torn up and looks like a source of gear lube leakage out of my transaxle (it was down some when I checked it). I'm thinking I need to replace it - what do you think?
Any suggestions on where to get a new one?
Thanks.

[Crvett69]

yes you have to take the tranny apart to remove it but if its leaking that not the problem, there is a internal seal thats supposed to keep the oil inside and thats worn out if its leaking there, the bellows is just a dust cover to keep the grit out, it actually has a small hole in it as a vent. probably going to be a dealer item

[SchlockRod]

Thanks man!

[GeoRandy]

Follow up. I'm in the same situation, only mine is a 97 3/5 hatch.

What is involved in replacing the seal you mentioned? Can it be done with the transmission in the car?



I'm leaking about a pint of good Pennzoil synchromesh from right there every 6 weeks, right onto the exhaust pipe (smelly.)

[Crvett69]

if your sure thats where the leak is and not a axle seal you will need to take the tranmission out of the car. you can find a good write up on rebuilding the transmission by Dr Bill. if you read through that you will see what you need to take apart to get to seal

[GeoRandy]

Dang, I was afraid of that. I have new transaxles and seals. They don't leak. I almost have the car restored to like new condition.

Dang. dang, dang!

Thanks Crvettt69

[mike68]

You actually can replace that seal with the trans in the car you just have to be careful.

[Crvett69]

don't you need to split the case to get to seal? i think it would be easier and safer out of the car

[Woodie83]

Jittney claims to have done it without splitting the cases, but details are sketchy. http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=581877&t=4132264

[GeoRandy]

She does recommend doing it with the transmission pulled.

I don't get the strip of latex glove part though. Can anybody clarify this for me/us?

[Woodie83]

Jittney's a she, not that it really matters. I think that was for if it was leaking around the outside of the seal, seems like an unlikely failure to me. It's gonna leak where the shaft slides through the seal, I would think.

[GeoRandy]

Thanks Woodie, I edited above to "she."

I haven't pulled the boot off yet to see exactly where the seal is leaking from, but I do think it probably would be from the center of the seal around the shaft and not around the outside perimeter of the seal. I'll pull the boot on Sunday and see where it is leaking from.

I'll post back what I find.

[SchlockRod]

Yeah - update on my end:
Your leak is almost certainly due to the inner seal, not that boot - like Vette said.
I took mine to a very, very good trans shop here - very trustworthy... They told me to get outta there because the tranny needs to get pulled, case split, in order to change the seal... this would be $500 or more and they saw that the car is worth like maybe $5... I said "$500 will buy a lot of trans fluid."
Note: The TSB for my car says Synchromesh is an OPTION to make shifting smoother (I suppose if your synchros are worn, or you live in a cold climate?)... It may be thinner than the 75W90 (GL-4) synthetic I use, which is the primary recommendation of the owner's manual. Maybe you won't leak as much using that? I'm not losing much... maybe a couple ounces a month...

[Crvett69]

syncromesh is about like 20w oil, i run it in wifes metro but if your leaking it will just make it leak even faster