oil cooler lines

[norteno]

First of all, thanks for all the help I recieved previously when I was replacing brake lines, all turned out fine! I have a 1997 4X4 Blazer. The oil cooler lines (from radiator to oil filter) are leaking and I am going to replace them but when I researched the matter, I found a lot of bad reviews on the Dorman lines such as not lasting very long, being loose, not seating properly and ultimately leaking again and not being a good fit. So my question is; are there any other suppliers of this product besides the dealer which aren't gonna break the bank? I found a good pictorial on this procedure on handymanlyness.com but he doesn't rate the Dorman oil cooler lines. Any experience or input out there?? Thanks again.

[53bruce]

dorman lines or not, i would just count on replacing them every 60,000 miles or so. From what I have seen, they will all leak at some point. its just not a good design in that its not simpler to replace when it does.
Yup, a good designer would have the metal tubes lead up to the front of the engine and THEN have a joint with the rubber hose assembly. BUT no, they had to place the bolt back where its next to impossible to get to, then run you through partially lifting the engine about 2 inches to get the old lines out past the transaxle assembly. you will need long extensions and a pivot joint to go from the socket to the very front of the engine, there is no other space to get a wrench in there. Hope you have small hands too to get this all to fit. I had to use a 6 ft prybar under the front main pully to coax the engine up enough to get it all to pass. Its almost easier to unbolt and drop the transaxle a bit to get the space you need. Wear old clothes when you do this, its going to get real messy! ( guess where all that dripping oil went!) be real carefull when you fasten the assembly back onto the engine, make sure the assembly mates square and solid. check twice to make sure you really have it completely on the adaptor block before you tighten it completely.
i have done this way too many times now. 1 person can do this in about 2-3 hours, 2 people will really help speed things up..

[norteno]

What about the lines that run from radiator down to remote oil filter? That's the one I want to replace first. Thanks for the info!

[old_master]

You can modify the existing aluminum lines with 1/2" compression adapter fittings to 1/2" hydraulic line. This will eliminate the crimp connectors, and the leaks. I've done this on several vehicles with no leaks, it is a permanant "fix".

[53bruce]

I REALLY like the idea of using the crimp connecters. im GOING to try that the next time!
as for replacing the radaitor to oil filter hose, it is the easier of the 2 by far.
remove the air filter box then you can see and get to both hoses. use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic caps on the radaitor top and bottom connecters. then use a fine angled awl type tool to remove the clip and then pull the lines out.
to reassemble, place a new clip inn each connecter first. then oil up both hoses so they will slide in.
push both hoses in until they snap into place, then replace the plastic retainer.
on the filter end, you will need a real tight wrench as there isnt much room. just use patience and it can be done.
but, in the end, I REALLY like the idea of using the crimp connecters instead!
thanks old master!
BTW, where exactly did you get the parts you used?
just want to make sure what i would get would be high quality, not something cheap and prone to fail.

[old_master]

Edit: The replacement line assembly is rated at 3,000psi and should be good for 60psi of oil pressure
Any shop that makes up hydraulic hoses can make it for you.

[norteno]

Yea, I like that idea a lot too. I am going to attempt that way as soon as it gets below 90 degrees around here. Thanks for the picture and instructions, once again you have proven to be the master! Thanks to Eagan Minnesota too for the step by step tips, I need that!

[Blue Bowtie]

I went one step more and used 250PSI reuseable hydraulic fittings and made the hoses:

http://www.hofmannfluidpower.com/fit...se-fitting.htm

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by norteno

Yea, I like that idea a lot too. I am going to attempt that way as soon as it gets below 90 degrees around here. Thanks for the picture and instructions, once again you have proven to be the master! Thanks to Eagan Minnesota too for the step by step tips, I need that!

the equipment I worked on never used AL for pressure fittings with heat it is surely going to fail.

I from day one put clamps on the al crimps still no leaks.

old master idea is a good cheap reliable fix.

[laxman21]

What type of clamps?

[jdmccright]

I switched mine out to the worm band clamps. I cut the old lines just past the crimps and used a double flaring tube kit to put a bulb at the end of the tubing...slip the tubing over and tighten.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by laxman21

What type of clamps?

s/steel hose clamps small size to fit correctly. just go over the al crimp ..it will crush it slightly and stop the weeping..my 1996 started leaking in 1998. still those clamps are working. from time to time I give them a very slight check for security.

cost for my hoses is about 140. and not an easy job..

ALSO THEY ALL LEAK NEW OR OLD ..VERY BAD DESIGN AL SUCKS.

[norteno]

thanks for all the excellent feedback. I did mine with the lines still on the vehicle. It was a little cramped working space but very doable. I did it this way because it where the hose went into the aluminum fitting that was leaking. I followed old master's photo and used a small dremel tool and metal cut-off disk. I only had to use one disk for all for connectors! I had the dremel and disks for years so that didn't cost any thing. I paid about $17 for 8 feet of 400psi tramsmission line. I used two s/steel hose clamps on each end for a total of sixteen for about $12.00. I finally did this last month November and been driving daily and checking for leaks weekly. so far so good. I could not have done it without the input from you all. Happy New Year. now I'm looking for some info on how to take out the passenger side front 4WD drive axle tube that is between the transfer case and cv half shaft. thanks again to everyone.

[laxman21]

Replaced all 4 lines and the oil filter housing as all the bolt hols had broken

[old_master]

Mighty risky using hose clamps. Cold oil pressure can reach 60psi or higher. If a line pops off at 70mph, it will empty the crankcase in a matter of a few seconds, and you won't know it until it's too late.