2000 Astro 221K Engine Change?

[harryevan]

2000 Astro 221K miles. Ran strong until the other day, when I was passing a semi.
Sounds like I have a major problem. I saw the question about dropping the pan without removing the engine, but it wasn't answered that way. Is that easy/possible? I'd like to look first.

Has anyone illustrated the best/easiest way to pull a Astro/Safari engine? I pulled a '70 Econoline 302 through the dog house after dropping the transmission, but there's no room for that here.

Thanks

[Blue Bowtie]

The best method may be taking it out through the bottom, but that would require a post type hoist, engine cradle, and quite a bit of disassembly.

AWD or RWD?

[harryevan]

AWD. I thought I'd have to drop the transfer case, too, but take advantage of it being out and completely refill the AWD fluid like all you guys suggest. When I cracked the top fill plug to check the fluid on a level floor, some fluid came out without even removing the plug, so I think it was filled on the bench or at the factory. The fat guy who owned it before me didn't mess with it, according to CARFAX.

A friend with an older Astro said something about rocking the engine 45 degrees to each side in order to disconnect something before pulling it out the front, but I don't even have it in the garage yet.

He's thinking optimistically about a torque converter, says it's a bitch to drop the tranny (what ain't?), but I want to look everything over first, hence the pan question.

If I have to do this (I already changed the intake manifold gaskets), I only want to do it once.

If I had the bread to have it done, I'd buy a newer Astro, but then I'd have to start all over again.

Any advice is extremely appreciated.

[Blue Bowtie]

Yes, the engine has to be rotated 120° twice to remove the torque converter bolts through the starter opening (starter removed).

The XFER case will have to be separated unless you don't remove the trans and support it somehow.

The RH front axle tube will also have to be removed from the differential, along with both half shafts. The front driveshaft and differential will also have to be removed.

Once all the lines, wires, hoses, and ducts are removed, there will be nothing left to restrain the engine except the two front (side) mounts.

[harryevan]

Is there a manual on this subject? I'm looking around and other folks talk about lifting the body off the subframe or cutting the radiator support to bring it out the front, with or without the torque converter. Just a few photos but not a lot of detail, so far.

What would Mr. Goodwrench do?

[harryevan]

200 Astro AWD LS, 212K gotta rebuild the engine.

I've been reading (Haynes and Chilton's excepted - they don't have anything for AWD Astros) and slowly removing parts in preparation for pulling the engine. I'm going the "drop the subframe" route as I have a friend with taller stands, an engine stand and a Skidsteer (Bobcat on steroids) to lift the body. I've been removing everything in the front end; shroud, fan clutch, radiator, water pump, alternator and bracket, power steering pump and bracket. I'll pull the engine cover next, looking for electrical connections to disconnect and maybe the plenum. Then I'll go underneath for the drive train and oil and fuel lines. A couple of HowTo listings go into detail, but their lists seem to be overkill. I've seen some video on youtube about Astro/Safaris and "snub-nose vans", but I have a few questions, of course:

Can I do this without disconnecting any of the A/C lines? I've got the compressor hanging from wire on the firewall, and the condenser is still in place. It seems like it would be a better way to go, especially with the rear A/C lines. If not, what's the best way to relieve any residual coolant, which connection is best to start with?

I read that there are six bolts that hold the subframe to the body, but no one has illustrated them, so I'm wondering where they all are, exactly?

Someone spoke of a "pinch-weld" that's supposed to be the best support point for jack stands once the body is up. I don't see what they are referring to, so I'm wondering about safe stand placement, as it will be up on stands for a week or two.

Then there's the question of the best points to lift the body from. We'll be lifting from the front, but without the subframe, where might be the best two points to lift with? We can spread the forks on the skidsteer quite a bit, and it has enough lift capacity and height to get it up for clearance. I've read that it's a good idea to elevate the rear axle, but most photos I've seen have the rear wheels on the ground.

Still wondering about a manual, like I said, Haynes doesn't cover AWD and the Chilton's I looked through was missing quite a bit of detail.

Thanks for the help so far.

[harryevan]

Well, I found some manuals, anyway:

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...service-repair

Most of my questions are answered for twelve bucks, except where to pick the body up from the front. Any ideas on that one?