2011 Silverado Engine Stutter at Low RPM's

[Murphster05]

Hello All,

I have a 2001 Silverado with a 5.3litre and 4wd, has about 160k miles on it. Recently (last 5-10k miles) I have noticed a stutter or hesitation at low RPM's. To counter this, I have been using tow/haul mode to keep the rpm's decently high. At first I thought it might be the transmission, but as it is only at the one range of RPM's (1300 - 2k) I imagine this has to be a motor issue. I recently did plugs, wires, and belts as a little tune up. No check engine light on (except for the occasional P0410 error code which I have been ignoring, and the ABS / Brake light error as well, my poor truck!) but I don't think either of those codes would be causing this situation.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Murphster05

Hello All,

I have a 2001 Silverado with a 5.3litre and 4wd, has about 160k miles on it. Recently (last 5-10k miles) I have noticed a stutter or hesitation at low RPM's. To counter this, I have been using tow/haul mode to keep the rpm's decently high. At first I thought it might be the transmission, but as it is only at the one range of RPM's (1300 - 2k) I imagine this has to be a motor issue. I recently did plugs, wires, and belts as a little tune up. No check engine light on (except for the occasional P0410 error code which I have been ignoring, and the ABS / Brake light error as well, my poor truck!) but I don't think either of those codes would be causing this situation.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

so you think the P0410 california code is no big deal ? what you have is an air pump and check valves . this supplies air to the exhaust. that way the exhaust is fill with oxygen to get the cat conveters working more effeciently.

when this fails it works backwards. exhaust now goes into the intake. this this then causes the MAF to get dirty and fouls up the intake and valves with carbon. since you ignored this for a period of time this can damage the cat converters.


when the code first came on and IF you replaced those check valves ,I would say it will be all that was required. since you ignored this hard to say what its gonna cost you.

abs/brake lt would be hubs. 10 years and about 150,ooomi these go ...some here in rust belt only get 80,ooomi.........

[Murphster05]

So you would start by replacing the check valves then... Thanks for the tip. Too bad I ignored this... Do you know what the check valves look like, or a thread that details this change?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Murphster05

So you would start by replacing the check valves then... Thanks for the tip. Too bad I ignored this... Do you know what the check valves look like, or a thread that details this change?

since you live in california I am quite sure the parts guy has plenty for your inspection. 10yrs they fail. they unscrew. about 20-25 ea.

[Murphster05]

So I have been to three autoparts stores to try and get the check valves.... I am hoping to start there and get some MAF cleaner and see if that helps me at all. Is this the part that I am looking for?

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/199...t-check-valve/

None of the local parts stores can even get this thing they say...

ALso, has anyone replaced these? How hard are they to get on and off? Not bad with some PB blaster on the threads first?

Thanks for any help.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Murphster05

So I have been to three autoparts stores to try and get the check valves.... I am hoping to start there and get some MAF cleaner and see if that helps me at all. Is this the part that I am looking for?

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/199...t-check-valve/

None of the local parts stores can even get this thing they say...

ALso, has anyone replaced these? How hard are they to get on and off? Not bad with some PB blaster on the threads first?

Thanks for any help.

one place to call would be the dealership for a part number/.cost/availability.

I think these are on your vehicle. ac 2141047 need 2. also the check valve at/on air pump ac 214643.

this can be found at rockauto in their listing. see if this is all correct from dealership then have part store look up these numbers.

I do not recommend non OEM parts with this system.

[Murphster05]

Great, thanks for the help. I think I will probably just order from Rock Auto once I check that the lines are not blocked. Local dealer is about 45 minutes away and rock auto has some good prices on the parts it appears.

Thanks again for all the help. Have you ever replaced these? Is the threaded connection usually a difficult one to get off?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Murphster05

Great, thanks for the help. I think I will probably just order from Rock Auto once I check that the lines are not blocked. Local dealer is about 45 minutes away and rock auto has some good prices on the parts it appears.

Thanks again for all the help. Have you ever replaced these? Is the threaded connection usually a difficult one to get off?

to remove use two wrenches. hold the piping steady then rotate the check valve off.

when installing I use a thread compound like what you would use for natural gas pipe fittings. no teflon tape !

should not be torqued too much . you may find gettting the hose off more of a problem.

[Murphster05]

J cat - thanks for the help. You weren't kidding, those chevy hose clamps are terrible... do they glue them onto the hoses? All three of them would not come off, what a pain. Finally got this completed yesterday, got some MAF cleaner and took care of that as well. Truck seemed to be running a lot better. Cleared the code in the system, hoping to never see it again.... Hubs will be a project for a weekend when I have more time, doesn't look like a fun one at all. Maybe get a Hayne's manual before the undertaking...

Thanks again for your help!