Dropping Subframe for Stabilizer Bar

[SilverOLDS]

Replacing the stabilizer bar and it looks like i need to drop the subframe to get the new one in. The old one came out with no problems but the new one seems to have more curve to it than the OEM. Does anyone have a pictorial/write-up to drop the subframe a few inches?

[Tech II]

If it came out without dropping the frame, should go back in the same way it came out.......did you lay the new one on top of the old one, to make sure you got the right bar? It should be exact.....

[gmtech1]

Originally Posted by Tech II

If it came out without dropping the frame, should go back in the same way it came out.......did you lay the new one on top of the old one, to make sure you got the right bar? It should be exact.....

Yep, what Tech II said, if it came out, the new one should go back in. They sould be excactly the same...BUT, if you do decide to drop the back of the cradle, make SURE you disconnect the steering shaft from the gear or BAD things will happen!

[SilverOLDS]

Hmmmmm, the NAPA guys confirmed and said that this is correct bar. I thought I remember the guy on 1A Auto say that some require the subframe to be dropped just a few inches for install. He said nothing about the stearing thing.

[gmtech1]

You will be able to drop the cradle a little, maybe 1 in. or so, with out a problem. Any more than that and you risk seperating the steering shaft. If this happens, your pretty much hosed. To be safe, I would disconnect shaft from bottom of column. Just in case the cradle dropped faster than expected. I think its a worthwhile step to prevent a potential headache by having to replace the steering shaft

[merc81]

You know what? If you remove the bolts on the subframe without first disconnecting the steering knuckle, you have RUINED the linkage. There is NO free play at all that allows that linkage to move with the subframe.

I've had 'em apart many times and trying to drop the back of the subframe down--even taking the bolts out and letting it move--is absolutely a bad idea. You don't want to drive one that's had that done. Find some of my posts where I detail this job with lots of photos if you want, but don't try to move the back of the frame at all while that knuckle is still attached. Air bags could go off, shafts get bent, all manner of things that make the bad stabilizer bar seem like a dream job.

As to why the new bar won't fit, its because they put a reverse bend in the replacement bars, the old one bends up, the new one bends down. You should still be able to get it to pop in after removing the clamp downs.

Here is the new & old bars for comparison:



Just make sure you don't have your new one upside down. It looks just like the photos.
John