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#1
07-21-2011, 12:22 PM
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sway bar links
2000 sable. I replaced the tie rod end (easy) and ball joint (difficult) on front passenger side. The inner tie rods are tight. I still hear/feel thumping from front end when going over bumps in road. I suspect sway bar links and/or strut bearing and seat assembly. I can't get a wrench in to disconnect the upper nut off the sway bar link. The steel housing on the strut holding the nut extends out and can't get a wrench in there. I'm able to get the 8mm wrench to hold the stud but can't get the 18mm wrench in to loosen the nut. I tried turning the wheel to allow access but there just isn't any room. How do I get it off??? I have loosened the lower nut. Can I leave the upper nut connecting the sway bar link to strut on and remove the strut with the sway bar link connected by the upper nut??? somebody help please. THANKS!!
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#2
07-22-2011, 06:47 PM
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Re: sway bar links
It could also be the sway bar brackets. They have rubber bushings inside that go around the sway bar and sometimes wear, allowing the sway bar to hit the bracket making a thump noise.
__________________
"When I was a kid my parents moved a lot, but I always found them." Rodney Dangerfield
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#3
07-22-2011, 09:56 PM
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Re: sway bar links
thanks for helping. It was the swaybar links. I had to remove the strut and cut off the old sway bar link with a grinder and install the new one on the bench before reinstalling the strut. I did check the bushings on the sway bar and the control arm and there was no unusual movement. It was a lot of extra steps just to install the sway bar link. After reinstalling the strut, the upper bolt hole where the stud goes through the strut didn't line up and I thought I was gonna have to compress the spring to align it but I put a floor jack under the the strut spring metal housing to raise it up line up the bolt holes if that makes sense? The bolt slid right thru then. Then the lower stud of the sway bar link was also too low to line up with the sway bay bar so I had to jack up control arm to raise that up to line it up. The bolt slid right in, tightened it up and put everything back together and test drive. NO CLUNKING!! Man, whoever designed those suspension parts sure didn't have DIYers in mind. Oh yea, the sway bar links have either a 8mm stud or a 6mm hex opening that you have to hold onto so the whole damn joint won't spin in the socket when you are wrenching the nut down. Thanks for helping and listening man!!! WOW. I guess I saved some money. Oh yea, I did remove the strut with the sway bar link connected at the upper bolt.
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#5
10-02-2011, 09:58 AM
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Re: sway bar links
Need some more advice. This forum is good. I also replaced the bearing hub yesterday and I still get some slight left to right movement when I grab the tire at 3 and 9 oclock. I looked behind wheel when I'm moving it and it seems like it's moving from directly behind the tire, like where it bolts on to rotor. everything else seems tight. Any ideas??
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#6
10-03-2011, 10:58 AM
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Re: sway bar links
I believe the hub nut torque is around 185 ft/lbs for most taurus/sable. Much greater than the 120 on my torque wrench. I usually max it out, then go to a two foot pipe on a breaker bar that I stand on with a little hop that matched the time I borrowed a big torque wrench. An impact might cause problems for the bearings, so I wouldn't go that route for installation. Did you get a full torque specific to your car? My son did one and only guessed at the torque. The next day the nut came loose, not off thankfully, and ruined a new set of bearings.
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