Prepping a new model for painting

[The Grey Wolf]

Hi fellow model builders,

I've read some of your articles on how to prepare a new model for a paint job and found some useful tips. But here's my way:

First, and especially for GT models, you go out and buy a mile or so of masking tape. The small stuff in model supplies is great, but you'll also need some wide tape for covering large areas. I find drafting tape works well, but you don't need it with CAD and I'm retired now anyway - it has a light tack and leaves no residue, but is prohibitively expensive. Get the least sticky you can you can find. Use light pressure when applying the tape except at the seams. A thumbnail, or for the more sophisticated modeler, a burnisher works well. Ensuring a tight bond at the seam increases the likelihood of pull up, but lessens the chance of paint being sucked under the tape because of capillary action, especially with thinned paint. But now to the nitty-gritty.

Prepping the plastic is essential. There is nothing more frustrating than pulling up a huge section of paint as you are removing tape. The model comes to you with a nice, slick sheen on the plastic. I find that sanding, or using a primer obscures some of the expensive detail - the higher the detail, the more expensive the model. I lean away from primers except on metal because they tend to clog the detail - I'm certain there are those among you who have differing opinion on that. Perhaps bronze wool, but long ago I discovered my incredible laziness. I prefer the ease and finally mistake limited use of chemicals.

Ah, but you can ruin the beautifully appointed model in seconds if you choose aggressive chemicals like lacquer thinner or acetone - it destroys the exprensive detail in nothig flat - high detail equals high cost. I have found something that with a 10 or 15 second swishing bath will remove the sheen but avoid softening the plastic.

TESTORS ELO (Easy Lift Off) (Not a plug) was made to remove paint and decals without softening the plastic while giving the plastic a matte finish. I discovered long ago to use a company's primary product; that is where their expertise lies. Testors has been making model paint as long as I've been modelling, easily fifty years. They are familiar with plastic formulations and know how to maintain its integrity. Early in my modelling life, I learned that cigarette lighter fuel works well on still wet paint and is far cheaper than Testors' thinner, but leaves no 'tooth' to grip the paint. That is the ultimate objective of removing the slick sheen on plastic.

Paint uses two ways to hold onto the plastic surface. The tooth gives a mechanical bond while certain paint formulations actually chemically fuse together with the plastic at the molecular level. That's why using lacquer in heavy coats causes the plastic to craze. The more quickly the lacquer dries, the less likelihood there will be of crazing.

Using ELO (Not the "Electric Light Orchestra" of us rockers, but the chemical) in a quick, swishing bath, followed by rinsing with warm water and allowing it to dry thoroughly will give a suitable base to begin your paint job, with reduced risk of pulling up previously applied paint.

Other techniques I've found useful is giving the undercoat plenty of drying time (this is often the primary cause of pulling up previously applied paint - just because it looks dry doesn't mean it is), pulling the tape off at an angle (not square to the paint line), and allowing yourself the chance to make boo-boos. ELO also works exceptionally well to remove those boo-boos, its primary purpose. Also, prepping the tape by sticking it to you finger tips to allow it to pick up body oils, reducing the tack.

Thanks for allowing me to add my two cents worth.

[Blazkkk]

Ill be quite honest, just go with a two stage paint and use a descent gun but not too expensive. I got mine at my local harbor freight. There are a lot of good guides out there.. but the good guys dont give away their secrets

http://www.spraypaintcar.com

[360spider]

Testors paint (well, most of it anyway) is not very good. Seriously.
I can prime, paint, and clearcoat model body using automotive paints and clears in less than an hour, and it will be ready to be handled and decaled in about 2 hours.

[The Grey Wolf]

I agree with your comments on single color bodies, but my post deals with two and three colors. Taping eats time and pulling up paint is aggravating at best. The thicker the coat, as in primers, clogs the details on high quality GT racers. I used automotive paint for many moons to mixed results, but when it came to multi-colored bodies, I use Tamiya spray. There are so many cast in grills, rivets, et al, on GTs and F1s that get clogged with primers, necessarily heavy-bodied, that I shy away from them and use light coats to avoid crazing. I guess it's all a matter of preference - that's why the paint section covers a wall at the auto store or hobby shop.

[The Grey Wolf]

A friend of mine bought a harbor freight Paasche lookalike and is delighted with it. The parts are interchangeable with my Paasche double-action. He wins model shows with curbside models because of their finish. He uses Humbrol and rubs out every coat except the clearcoat, which he waxes. He's not a member of AF but I'll try to get him to come aboard. I'm positive he can add a lot to this topic.