92 PA Acceleration Issues

[ellev8or]

PA has 111000 miles. A daily driver in the extreme heat state of AZ. Drove it out-of-town for the first time and it begin stalling, bucking and jumping as if the fuel was being restricted. I would push the pedal to the floor and no power, no acceleration, and the rpm's would fall to 0. The PA received the following: New wires, platinum plugs, air filter, fuel filter, O2 censor, fuel pump relay and the MAF was checked and didn't need replacing. After doing all it didn't fix the acceleration issues. I had catalytic converter installed and drove it 1100 miles with a few breaks in between, and no trouble, until a few minutes ago. Now it's doing the same thing all over again. It wont' allow me to get above 3000 rpm's and if I force it and drive it too long, it will shut off. But when I restart it, it's fine for few miles more. Also, when the engine is cold it's fine until it reaches standard operating temps. Was there something I forgot to do or check? Is there a high quality converter that's clog-free? What in the world could it be? Please don't say the fuel pump. Your guidance and expertise is always appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[jdl]

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes. You can check mil codes yourself. Part of a tune-up is using a fuel pressure gage to check fuel pressure.

[ellev8or]

Tune up was completed yesterday along with a fuel pressure test. I can never get to someplace to have the codes checked because when the 'Service Engine Soon' light comes on, it goes off while I'm driving.

[big white bufflo]

you say fuel pump relay do you mean fuel pump what is the fuel pressure hot and cool and it sounds like a heat issue will this happen when the car is cool or just when it hot could be coil packs have the codes looked at because they get stored in the computer the code will tell all in help of diagnosing trouble

[jdl]

With obd 1, you can check codes, yourself. Use a jumper wire between the A & B terminals at the data link connector. You turn the key, just till the dash lites come on, no further, no crank. The mil starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes. An example, a code 12 would be one flash, a slight pause, then two quick flashes.

[ellev8or]

big white bufflo,

the fuel pump relay has been changed, not the fuel pump, the temp of the fuel pressure is unknown, didn't know that was important, when it's running cold it's fine but when it gets to normal operating temp (hot) that's when it starts decelerating, missing, losing power, and shuts down. i had the coil packs checked and they were fine. didn't know the codes were stored on the computer.

jdl

ok, i'll try this on my own but i'm no mechanic, lol, where would the data link connector be located? once i determine the codes then what do i do with them? i assume it cost to have a shop tech do this for me, correct?

thanks gentlemen

[jdl]

The data link connector should be lower edge of dash, to the right of steering column.

[ellev8or]

ok, i took the car to meineke and they stated it wasn't the converter, it was the MAF. they wanted to charge me $350 to install a new MAF and clear all the codes. they stated it would take hours to delete the codes and that they would have to teach the computer that a new MAF has been installed. i thought, 'hog wash'. is it that serious and time consuming? is the MAF that sensitive that if not handled and treated with care that one can destroy their car's computer? is this a good price to change something that is staring you in the face soon as you open the hood? is there any way to clear these codes myself, i mean i'm no mechanic but not a dummy neither. i think this 800% mark up of labor and parts is not federally regulated and should be look into, especially during an economic crisis. thanks for the info and advice.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by ellev8or

is there any way to clear these codes myself

Since you have an OBDI car, all you have to do is disconnect the battery negative (-) cable & wait about 1-min before reconnecting it, to clear the codes.

[Jrs3800]

The MAF has 3 screws... Very easy to replace...

Like stated above disconnect the battery for a minute to clear codes...( Hours my A$$ )

It will take 50-100 miles for the PCM to fully relearn fuel curves... Beyond that with a new MAF you should be fine...