Wheel hubs aren't supposed to be 2 piece..

[MikeD268]

99... Z71...5.3L... Ext cab...4x4

I know it went IN in one piece.... A jaw puller has nothing to grab onto now... Any thoughts on getting this out?

FYI... This is what you get when you have to buy cheap parts. Let go just over the 1 year warranty... Whenever possible, spend as much as you can for quality parts.... It'll cost less in the long run... This is being replaced with a Timken hub...

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by MikeD268

99... Z71...5.3L... Ext cab...4x4

I know it went IN in one piece.... A jaw puller has nothing to grab onto now... Any thoughts on getting this out?

FYI... This is what you get when you have to buy cheap parts. Let go just over the 1 year warranty... Whenever possible, spend as much as you can for quality parts.... It'll cost less in the long run... This is being replaced with a Timken hub...

looking at your bearing this suffered heat damage. I would say this had a lot to do with the difficult removal. also road salt will cause this.

removal of the inner bearing parts is not that hard. using a chissel type tool from the inboard side drive the inner bearing/seal outward ..

where did you get the hub that failed ? what was the torque used to secure the HUB nut ?

I would not use a large puller for this ...you tube has some good video on how to drive out these hubs.. also when installing new hub it helps to coat the outer surface with antiseize compound to make removal the next time easier.

[MikeD268]

Thaaaaaanks jC.. That's exactly what I wanted to hear...

Not unexpected, though. Thinking it MIGHT make things a tad easier IF I can get a sawz all blade in there and make a relief cut or two before trying to muscle this out.... I'll just have to clean the axle spline off well before re-assembly...

Admittedly, No idea about the torque. The one thing I haven't had in my collection for awhile now is a torque wrench. Thinking I may have to remedy that now...

IF memory serves, this was an Advance/Proline special... I'm not 100% on that but it was all of $129. What kills me is that, as I had time to look around this time, I found the Timken on-line for under $100 including shipping.

I'm off to Youtube....

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by MikeD268

Thaaaaaanks jC.. That's exactly what I wanted to hear...

Not unexpected, though. Thinking it MIGHT make things a tad easier IF I can get a sawz all blade in there and make a relief cut or two before trying to muscle this out.... I'll just have to clean the axle spline off well before re-assembly...

Admittedly, No idea about the torque. The one thing I haven't had in my collection for awhile now is a torque wrench. Thinking I may have to remedy that now...

IF memory serves, this was an Advance/Proline special... I'm not 100% on that but it was all of $129. What kills me is that, as I had time to look around this time, I found the Timken on-line for under $100 including shipping.

I'm off to Youtube....

ok so now with penitrating oil and my suggestion and your relief cuts should take care of the bearing remains,though the metal may be too hard to cut...

the torque is 157 FT lbs. never use air gun on the nut...snug down the nut with the wheel of the ground.. then install tire drop vehicle so tire is setting lightly on the ground then using the torque wrench tighten. it is possible to get a wrench to use at the parts store...

over/under torquing is why these fail too soon.in most cases...

then you must be careful to properly secure the ABS wheel speed sensor wire / connector......use antisieze on the rotor/bearing/shaft spline..next time you work this area all is much easier...

In arizona they don't have these rust issues !

I got a hub at 1A AUTO for my 2000 silverado ...the hub was 75.ooo ...so far it is working fine ,comes with a 2 yr warrantee..

timken is good quality ..price is quite high when I was looking for one a year ago.. I could get two for the timken price comes with sensor...also it is not made in china so I gave it a try.

[MikeD268]

Well... Mission accomplished... Not without it's share of swearing and sweat equity though... Cold chisel, hammer and a slide hammer got the job done... FYI, while the 3 hub bolts are 15 mm heads the thread and shaft size appear to be more Chevy custom. 1/2 was slightly too small... 5/8 was slightly too large. So I grabbed a couple of 3" long 1/2" bolts... Mounted two sides of the hub puller in the slide hammer kit.. Threaded them through as far as possible and proceeded to at least loosen things up a bit - until the threads on the bolts let go...

By then there was at least enough room to get the cold chisel wedged sufficiently behind the ABS sensor to get a good run at it... Then I just beat the snot out of it on all three points until it rolled over and died... Little anti-seize on the new housing... Plug in the new ABS sensor and I'm good to go again. Just in time for inspection... Yay !!!

Now I just have to figure out why I'm still throwing that evap canister code after I replaced the thing and had the code wiped...

Thanks for the advice jC... Hopefully you didn't hear all of that foul language coming out of Hampton last night..

HOPEfully, since this is a Timken, it'll last more than the year and four days that the old bearing went... How DO manufacturers program things to implode 30 seconds after the warranty expires ?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by MikeD268

Well... Mission accomplished... Not without it's share of swearing and sweat equity though... Cold chisel, hammer and a slide hammer got the job done... FYI, while the 3 hub bolts are 15 mm heads the thread and shaft size appear to be more Chevy custom. 1/2 was slightly too small... 5/8 was slightly too large. So I grabbed a couple of 3" long 1/2" bolts... Mounted two sides of the hub puller in the slide hammer kit.. Threaded them through as far as possible and proceeded to at least loosen things up a bit - until the threads on the bolts let go...

By then there was at least enough room to get the cold chisel wedged sufficiently behind the ABS sensor to get a good run at it... Then I just beat the snot out of it on all three points until it rolled over and died... Little anti-seize on the new housing... Plug in the new ABS sensor and I'm good to go again. Just in time for inspection... Yay !!!

Now I just have to figure out why I'm still throwing that evap canister code after I replaced the thing and had the code wiped...

Thanks for the advice jC... Hopefully you didn't hear all of that foul language coming out of Hampton last night..

HOPEfully, since this is a Timken, it'll last more than the year and four days that the old bearing went... How DO manufacturers program things to implode 30 seconds after the warranty expires ?

being experienced at removal of rusted parts , It took me a few hrs of hammering and prying with a good amount of super duty penitrating oil to get the hub out in one piece..I did not use the puller..I have seen what occured to you , the bearing separates...

with the s10 4x4 these hubs just fall off , no hammering very easy....

actually the OEM HUBS I know of many with this silverado 2000-5 models the hubs fail just after warrantee ends BOTH ...

[Streetwise]

I used an air chisel to get that apart. PB Blaster, heat and a sledge.

[ukrkoz]

Have no idea. I have same truck, just 2000, so we are sharing exactly same hub bearings. I had to replace mine at around 63 000, it was virtually 10 minute job. It simply slid out of the steering knuckle. Why and what happened to yours, I can only guess, and those are not pleasant ideas.

[ukrkoz]

Originally Posted by MikeD268

Now I just have to figure out why I'm still throwing that evap canister code after I replaced the thing and had the code wiped...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...=622469&page=3

[MikeD268]

Thanks, Uk... I actually replaced the canister and rerouted the port 2 years ago .... Damn part cost me $185 ... Had the code cleared only to have it come back 3 weeks later.... Never seemed to fix the problem... Never had any noticeable performance issues with it... Seems to take about the same amount of time to re-set whenever I clear it... And given that I've now got 264k + on her, I'm thinking the solution may be to let the SES light burn out... Unless somehow the purge valve is helping to cause this....