'97 Taurus GL Wagon 193.5K: Tranny Return Line

[Colt Hero]

'97 Taurus GL Wagon 193.5K: Tranny Return Line

I replaced all the tranny fluid this past weekend (2nd time since new ... I know ... too long in between). Had a LOT of trouble removing the lower return line into the tranny (I was attaching a 3' hose to pump it out). I've got the 3/8" lines with the plastic tabs that you pinch, but no matter how hard I pinched (bare hands, tools, etc.) I could not get the line to come out. Finally, it DID come out - but with the plastic insert attached (which I don't think is right ... seems to me this piece stayed inside the tranny last time).

After I was done, I then had a LOT of trouble getting the line back INTO the tranny. Simply forcing the line with the insert still on it back into the hole didn't work, so I ended up pulling the plastic piece off the line and inserting it back into the tranny before trying (several times) to push the line back in to the proper depth. Seemed every time I tried, the line would not go in far enough. Finally, it DID (seem to) be in deep enough (judging by the look of the upper line which I did not touch) ... but it was late (and dark) and I didn't have the nerve to pull back on it to see if it was locked in. I ended up driving it 25' back to the driveway where it will sit until this coming weekend (no apparent leaks, but not much of a "test", either).

I should probably replace this plastic insert, right? (I assume this is possible). On re-install, I could never really get it to sit flush with the tranny case. Always had some portion of it's lip just slightly raised from flush. Maybe it was distorted from being yanked out still attached to the line?

[shorod]

I'm not familiar with the line that you are referring to and how it attaches to the transmission. I am curious though why you are not just dropping the pan and changing the filter while the pan is off. This is the more typical method which allows you, first, to change the filter, and second, to see how much clutch material and grime is sitting in the pan.

I think if you take the car for a spin to get the transmission fluid temperature up to temp and it's still not leaking, I probably would not worry too much about replacing the plastic piece. But I think I'd find a different way to change the fluid, such as dropping the pan.

-Rod

[Colt Hero]

shorod:

I was trying to keep my post to a reasonable length (unsuccessfully), so I didn't mention that - yes - I DID also drop the pan and change the filter (the magnet had about an 1/8" of "fur" all around it, so not bad for 96,000 miles since the first change at 97,000 miles). I was using the procedure detailed in the Ford Service Manual (as I had done the first time). You pull the transmission return line (the lower silver metal tube), attach a 3/8" 3' rubber hose to it, then run the engine for 45 seconds or so until the fluid stops streaming out (then shut off the engine). Then you drop the pan and change the filter, reinstall the pan, overfill by pouring in 10 quarts of fresh fluid, then pump out the overage via the rubber hose (still attached to the return line). I got 2.5 Qts out initially through the hose, then 2.5 Qts from the pan drop, then I added the 10 Qts bringing the volume still inside to about 17 Qts, then I pumped out 6 Qts until the fresh fluid started to come out (I measured the fluid as it came out). I haven't checked the new level yet - I'm probably a little bit low and need to add some, but this procedure works very well. You get pretty much ALL of the old fluid out! And since I don't change the fluid as often as I should, it's plainly obvious where the OLD fluid ends and the NEW fluid begins.

But getting back to the transmission line - it's just a metal tube with two "collars" on it that push-fits into the transmission that has this plastic insert in it. I think it's the same arrangement at the radiator end, too (at least it was on my Impala when I changed out the radiator on it a couple of months ago). The plastic piece just has some molded tabs on it that I guess the metal tube's "collars" have to 'breach' in order for the line to lock in. Since the piece came out with the line, I think it might be slightly deformed now ... and maybe the line can no longer "lock in"...

I'll pull back on it this weekend. If it doesn't pop out, I guess I'm all right...

[shorod]

That sounds like a pretty effective method, as long as the parts on the tube don't fail in the process.

Good luck, and hopefully you find the fitting is still secure. I think I'll continue to just do (more) regular fluid and filter exchanges via the pan.

-Rod

[Colt Hero]

It's been 7 years since I did this last. The first time, the tube popped right out with minimal effort (and went back in easily with a "click"). Maybe those plastic inserts get fatigued over time and just don't spring open as easily when you pinch them (and so the "collar" on the metal tube can't slip by). I just changed the radiator on my '02 Impala (side tank pin-hole crack) and the connections were the same there - except the openings on the radiator came with an "ohm"-shaped circlip that barely breached the opening such that when you forced the metal line into the hole, the circlip would trap the "collar" on the line, holding it in. No O-ring that I could see, although there may have been one inside the radiator hole.

The whole transmission fluid change thing needs a re-design. It shouldn't be as difficult as it is. There should be a drain plug on EVERY transmission pan (on the side edge, preferably), and the filter should be external (in a protected location - maybe piggybacked onto the transmission case somehow where there is usually a lot of dead space anyway). Then it would be just like a regular oil change. But I guess the theory is that since the transmission oil is sent through a cooler, it lasts a LOT longer than motor oil and probably REALLY only has to be changed TWICE during the effective lifespan of the vehicle .. so why bother with a plug, an external filter, (or a pan with less than 100 bolts), right?

[Colt Hero]

Miraculously, the line doesn't appear to be leaking! I've taken the car out twice today to run errands (and get it hot to check the fluid level) and bone dry both times! Can't believe it! It mustn't take very much to keep that line in there because that plastic piece HAD to had been deformed somewhat.

Yesterday, I stopped by the Ford dealer parts department and they claimed I couldn't buy just the plastic insert (yeah, right!). $15 to replace the entire fitting. That's crazy! I mean - it's not like they cast the fitting AROUND the plastic insert!

As for the fluid level, I've added 1/2 pints (the amount the shop manual recommends) three times now (after running the engine hot). Seems to be moving toward the crosshatch area (finally). Maybe one or two more 1/2 pints.