Removing axles from 95 ford escort

[TROD7302]

I blew out the CV joint on my ford escort and I need to know what is easier, replacing the CV joint or get whole new axles, I was told it would be easier to do the axles and was wondering how you remove an axle from the 95 Ford Escort (front wheel drive), what more importantly I need to know is if the axle is captured or not

[mightymoose_22]

It is simpler to replace the axle as an assembly. You can turn in the old axle for a core refund.
If you get the axle loose from the hub the other end will pull out from the tranny... it may take a little prying to get it out, but it will go.
Get yourself a new hub nut if the new axle does not come with one.

[AzTumbleweed]

For sure replace the whole think. Then it's all 'new' including boots and it's all lubed up.

[badpoor]

I know the driver side can be TESTY because of the ring at the end.

[zzyzzx2]

Replace the whole axle with a new (not rebuilt) axle.

[Davescort97]

What side are we talking about? If it is the drivers side half-shaft the crossmember will have to be dropped to pry the shaft out of the transmission.

[denisond3]

I didnt even know you could buy just the CV joint. I also bought the replacement axles - rebuilt ones.
DaveEscort97 is right: To get the driver's side axle out its really hard (almost impossible) to do - unless you drop the front-to-rear crossmember first. Then you have a place to put a large screwdriver or pry bay up between the transaxle housing and the innner side of the inside CV joint. You put your prybar up from behind the axle, at about a 45 degree angle, and shove or hammer the end of it - toward the center of the car.
The passenger side axle can be reach by putting the prybar in from directly below it. To pry out either side I used a very large screwdriver; its 17" with a shaft that is a 3/8" square.
Getting the two bolts out of the front of that front-to-rear crossmember can be frustrating too. There are captive nuts inside the sheet metal crossmember under the radiator. I would spray a LOT of penetrating oil into that space, and do it each day for 2 or 3 days. If you are lucky the two bolts (take a 17mm 6 point socket or box end wrench) will just unscrew. Also soak the two nuts at the back end of the crossmember. The two motor mounts bolt to the crossmember, but they seldom give trouble when removing those nuts.
To do this job you should support the engine with a jack under the oil pan, but use a chunk of 2 by 4 to keep from cracking that alloy oil pan.

[mightymoose_22]

I don't recall ever removing the crossmember for this. In fact I know I haven't.
If memory is correct I have been able to pry it out from above. I would have to go out and look at it to say for sure what I used.

[badpoor]

Originally Posted by mightymoose_22

I don't recall ever removing the crossmember for this. In fact I know I haven't.
If memory is correct I have been able to pry it out from above. I would have to go out and look at it to say for sure what I used.

I'd sure love to know how you got at it from the top..
I know I had to remove the crossmember and then the passenger side axle so I could take a very small pry by and insert it into the trans and lightly tap on it on either side of the differential pin. the ownly way to get past that pin and onto the axle is with a small prybar.

[mightymoose_22]

Ya I don't recall... would have to go look.
If I remember correctly I was able to get a long fork in therefrom above on the firewall side... or if I am wrong then I did it from underneath.... but probably still using the long fork.
Whatever i did, I have never had trouble getting the axle out. Maybe it has something to do with being a California car and no rust.

Or... maybe I had the battery tray out... that might have made enough room to get in there.