F3000 Italya Reynard 89D

[IPMS24834]

I am currently working on the 1/24 Hasegawa Italya Reynard 89D.



Here is a link to all of my in-progress photos.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1073582...3h7brA9NC3qwE#



I actually started this about 19 years ago as an out of the box build. I got it back out when one of my local clubs had a "Pink" themed contest in November. It's not done yet, but I'm having fun building a car again. (Last model finished was a Star Trek Romulan Warbird http://www.dyksterhouse.org/~martin/gallery/album47) If you navigate up a level or two in my photo gallery you will see other models and reference photos. Let me know what you think. I'll post more photos as work progresses.



Martin

[eyckles]

Looks very nice. Can't wait to see the rest.

Lesley

[IPMS24834]

It doesn't feel like I got much done in 4 hours last night. I put a coat of future on the body, and then worked on some coolant lines.

I used 16 gauge bead wire, blue decal film for the hose connector with small strips of bare metal foil for the hose clamps. Heat shield is bare metal foil with knurling from my hobby knife. I removed the molded in lines and added my lines.



I had problems with the bead wire getting marked up when I bent it. Next time I might try styrene rod instead.

[davesans]

Great work the belts turned out real nice.

[rollin80s]

nice touch on the details. i like the idea of knurling the foil to get that heat shield look.
i too feel that way when i sit for hours doing stuff and yet it looks as if not much was done. i guess time does fly when your having fun.

[eyckles]

great start. Can't wait to see more. I have question dough. What kind of bead wire do you use and what is the thickness in mm?

Lesley

[IPMS24834]

The beading wire is 1.22 mm in diameter. Darlee Craft Designer permanently colored copper wire (silver) that I picked up at a fabric/craft store. It ended up being too shiny, so I painted it silver (Testors spray can).

[IPMS24834]

Yesterday I assembled the front wings to the nose. It looks good from a distance. I'm having problems with the paint chipping. Could be that the acrylic paints didn't stick well to the 15 year old primer coat. I've decided that I want to get this done, so I'm not going back to fix the chips (repaint everything) I'll just do a little touch up, or maybe some weathering for an after the race look.

[IPMS24834]

Next up, decals. The Bridgestone markings started to come apart, so I wasn't able to get the left one exactly where I wanted it and the large N cracked in one spot. I guess I'll need to coat the remaining decals with Microscale Liquid Decal Film before I continue. Not sure If I want to touch up the decal with paint or call them stone chips.

[davesans]

Wing looks good despite the cracks in the decals

[IPMS24834]

OK, here are some more pictures from this weekends progress. I decided that after the problems with the decals I should try out Microscale liquid decal film. It was a little scary at first because it looked like it was soaking the backing paper

But after it dried, it looked normal again.

I used some of the decals on the rear wing and didn't have any problems with them cracking.

After the cooling lines I thought the engine still looked a little bare so I decided to add some of the braided oil lines. I dug out what I had for A/N fitting and braided hoses. All of this stuff was supposed to go on a super detailed NASCAR I was going to build, but I figured I should put it to use on this kit. All of these parts are 20+ years old.

I started by drilling out the brass hex fittings. I put them in vice after I drilled a .025 hole in the end of my thumb.

For the larger 1.5 in. line I used some old phone wire, a hex fitting and a tapered fitting to match what is on the car.

For the smaller oil lines I used MSC brake line and smaller fittings. My first one didn't go together quite as nicely as I wanted but the second and third ones did.


With a coat of Model Master Aluminum Metalizer and Gunze clear Red and Clear Blue, they came out looking pretty nice.

That's about all for this update.

[IPMS24834]

I added the braided lines to the engine, but I'm not entirely happy with how they turned out. The blue is a little dark and the bends are not as sharp as i would like.


After adding the braided lines, I decided that the intake trumpets looked too bare. So I decided to scratch build injectors to go on them. First, I added pieces of .040 styrene rod cut at an angle to create the injector mounts.

Then I used .030 rod and some square stock to create the injectors. The hole near the top is for the fuel line, the square tab is the electronics connector.

I used Photo etched fasteners to create the mounting flanges for the injectors

I drilled holes in the tabs for small electrical wires and added guide pins to the mounting flanges.


Tomorrow I hope to start putting the injectors on the trumpets and install them on the car along with the fuel rail.

[IPMS24834]

Yesterday I put the injectors on the intake trumpets, touched up the black paint and added a PE hex head on the top of the injector. I'm going to mount one side to the car and do the fuel lines to the fuel rail before I mount the other side.

After putting them all together I decided that if there is a next time, I'll make the injectors shorter. I also put the decals on the front and rear wing end plates.


and just for laughs, here is a picture of my workbench. Usually when I am this close to the front edge, I'm close to being done. Not this time.

[IPMS24834]

Well I finally overcame my frustrations (parts breaking off, wondering if I am in way over my head) and made some more progress. It helped to create sketches and a list of what I wanted to do next. I only got half of the list it done, but that leaves me a plan for the next modeling session.

Did a test fit of the body on the chassis. Everything still seems to fit.

I added some small discs punched out of .015 sheet plastic to represent the cam covers on the rear of the heads. (and to cover the large hole needed to thread the braided line through)

Main work was on getting the top of the engine together again. First I created a fuel rail from .030 styrene rod and some strips to represent the mounting brackets and added that to the valley between the heads.


Next was grouping the injector wires together. Stripped some insulation off of some phone wire. Ran 2 wires in and only one out. Repeat to group the next 2 wires. Looks like wire wrapping and keeps the bundle size down.

Then I installed the right side Trumpet assembly on the engine.

Then I added Fuel lines between the injectors and fuel rail.

One side done! Had to let the glue dry on some fixes to the other Trumpet assembly, so I called it a night.

[Ąɥrton]

very cool and interesting project. Will be following closely!