Zero-Paints Thinning?

[Harry7]

Hi, I do have a number of Zero Paint bottled in glass (the "new" bottles used) but I havent been using them frequently. I want to know if you thin them before airbrushing after a long non-use. What would be the thinning ratio?

Cheers, Harry7

[Didymus]

A 1:1 ratio is a good place to start.

I would not use ordinary lacquer thinner; it can cause urethanes to curdle. You'll need some medium-temp reducer. You may have some with your "kit," or you can get it at an automotive paint store. Plan "C" would be to cadge some from a local auto body repair shop.

[indy_231]

Consistency of milk

[stevenoble]

Ordinary base coat thinner is fine. They aren't urethane, they are auto acrylic base coat paints. The 2K clear that Hiroboy sells is urethane based, but not the paints.. If you go to any auto paint store you can buy a 1litre can of base coat thinner for about £5 and this will last a very long time. Use if purely for thinning your paints. Buy a cheap 5 litre can of gun wash/cleaner thinners. These are just cheap thinners solely for flushing the airbrush after use..

[Harry7]

Many thanks for your replies. What psi do you set the compressor?

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by Harry7

Many thanks for your replies. What psi do you set the compressor?

You can experiment a little and see what works best with your airbrush. For mine I usually spray the base coat paints at between 20-25 psi and thin them to milk consistency. For the 2K clear coat I also thin this more than recommended and pressure is usually between 30-35 psi. I always use a higher pressure for clear coating, because I want to apply much wetter coats than when spraying colours. By wet, I mean wet and not thick. There is a distinct difference between a good wet coat and a thick heavy coat...

[indy_231]

No one can tell you the exact pressure. You have to experiment as it depends on your preferred style, equipment and conditions.

Personally, I always spray base coats at a high PSI such as 30 because you need a large coverage area and an even coverage of the colour.

For wetcoats using 1k clear I lower the PSI to around 8 otherwise you will find wet coats very difficult to apply as the product likes to dry before it hits the model, but I am also going to try applying these at a higher PSI next time around and see what the results are.

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by indy_231

For wetcoats using 1k clear I lower the PSI to around 8

Maybe depends on your airbrush as well..?? I don't think 8 psi would work with mine. Although I agree with you experimentation is the key to success and when you find the correct method that works for you, stick with it.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

Ordinary base coat thinner is fine. They aren't urethane, they are auto acrylic base coat paints.

Steve, this is slightly off topic, but maybe you can help me clear this up once and for all.

I regularly buy 1K base paint from FinishMasters. They mix it on-site in 2 oz. bottles. The ones I have on hand are labeled "Spectramaster" and "Du Pont Nason 3.5 VOC GEN 2 Basecoat." It has to be thinned about 1:1 to be sprayable.

A couple of times I've asked, "Is this urethane?," and they've always said yes. In fact, when I first went in, they told me to use medium temp reducer to thin it. I did try ordinary lacquer thinner, but on one occasion a bowlful curdled. That convinced me, but maybe it was a fluke. And the reducer works great.

I have read about 1K urethanes that are used for small repairs, so I've just taken their word that they are really urethanes.

Likewise, from the descriptions I've seen, I've assumed that Zero was the same stuff. But maybe it's not.

And I wonder whether the guys at the shop are really that knowledgeable. Just generally, my confidence in them isn't the greatest. I don't want to press them about it - it would be rude to say, "Are you sure? Are you absolutely sure that this stuff is urethane?

Steve (or anyone else!), can you cast some light on this?

[Harry7]

Many thanks for all the replies, I shall try to find the time first to start practicing spraying my zero paints. I am also in need of a spray booth, as I spray on my garage under the house and, all fumes end up within the house (wife complaining etc).
In addition I have to comment that when I sprayed the zero's 1k straight from the bottle ( as indicated on the label), I had what we call the spider effect. Perhaps it was the wrong psi on my compressor or it needed thinning? Apologies guys for some amateur Q's but, as I have mentioned, your help and WIP's are valuable help to an old enthusiast. So I am trying! And surely I shall post some of my work!

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by Harry7

Many thanks for all the replies, I shall try to find the time first to start practicing spraying my zero paints. I am also in need of a spray booth, as I spray on my garage under the house and, all fumes end up within the house (wife complaining etc).
In addition I have to comment that when I sprayed the zero's 1k straight from the bottle ( as indicated on the label), I had what we call the spider effect. Perhaps it was the wrong psi on my compressor or it needed thinning? Apologies guys for some amateur Q's but, as I have mentioned, your help and WIP's are valuable help to an old enthusiast. So I am trying! And surely I shall post some of my work!

If you mean a sort of stringy white effect over the Zero 1K that looks like a cobweb, then you need to add more thinner. You can also experiment with the air pressure. I usually spray the clear at 25-30psi and this works well with my airbrush (Tamiya HG Wide 0.5mm tip)
As for a spray booth I always recommend this one from Graphic Air. Not the cheapest but the best I've used, comes with a lifetime warranty and really does make painting a pleasure. No nasty fumes at all..

A300S-D

This is mine in my model room, doesn't take much space..

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by Didymus

Steve, this is slightly off topic, but maybe you can help me clear this up once and for all.

I regularly buy 1K base paint from FinishMasters. They mix it on-site in 2 oz. bottles. The ones I have on hand are labeled "Spectramaster" and "Du Pont Nason 3.5 VOC GEN 2 Basecoat." It has to be thinned about 1:1 to be sprayable.

A couple of times I've asked, "Is this urethane?," and they've always said yes. In fact, when I first went in, they told me to use medium temp reducer to thin it. I did try ordinary lacquer thinner, but on one occasion a bowlful curdled. That convinced me, but maybe it was a fluke. And the reducer works great.

I have read about 1K urethanes that are used for small repairs, so I've just taken their word that they are really urethanes.

Likewise, from the descriptions I've seen, I've assumed that Zero was the same stuff. But maybe it's not.

And I wonder whether the guys at the shop are really that knowledgeable. Just generally, my confidence in them isn't the greatest. I don't want to press them about it - it would be rude to say, "Are you sure? Are you absolutely sure that this stuff is urethane?

Steve (or anyone else!), can you cast some light on this?

I've never used the paints you mention, only Zero paints. The Zero colours are auto acrylic basecoats, definitely not urethane. The Zero 2k clear is urethane though 100% sure about that. In my experience the urethane paints are normally 3 parts, paint, thinner and hardener/activator. Also the urethane will go off, whereas it has a definite pot life which after that period it is useless and can't be used. When you mix the Zero 2K and add the hardener it starts a chemical reaction that cannot be stopped (that is why you should always only mix the quantity you need) the pot life may be 2-4 hours for example. Once it hardens that's it, it's useless to spray. If you leave it in the airbrush and it hardens your airbrush will be ruined.
The Zero base coats have no hardener and are 2 parts, paint and a thinner. They dry by evaporation of the solvents (air dry if you like) although you can also bake them (dehydrator or Mr Dry Booth) If you have some paint left you can put it back to the bottle and re use it..
Do the paints you buy have a separate hardener..?? If they do chance is they really are urethane and the guys in the shop are telling you the truth...

[Didymus]

No, they don't require a hardener. So maybe it's the same stuff as Zero. Guess I'm going to give them the third degree next time I drop in. It's really nice paint - goes on like a dream, and the metallics are very fine. Needs to be clearcoated, of course.