2000 Lincoln LS rear noise

[wh_4741]

It has ~160k miles. V6. Noise sounds like knobby-mudder tires and starts at around 30mph. The noise gets louder and faster with speed. At highway speeds the sound morphs into a howl. I'm aware of the new larger-diameter rear axles, but am very skeptical of that being the problem. I replaced all 4 tires with new ones - no change in the noise. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this and could tell me if it's rear wheel bearings or ring/pinion gear - or something else. Thanks.

[pj96ss]

Can you determine if the noise is coming from the sides or the middle. That should help you determine if it's the bearings in the hubs or the diff.

P.J.

[wh_4741]

Finally got a chance to jack up the rear end while putting it in drive. Some noise from the differential, but most of it seems to be coming from around the wheels. I ordered new rear wheel bearings, hub retainers and axle circlips. I'll plan to post back after I replace them.

[wh_4741]

New wheel bearings fixed it.

Here is the cost breakdown (Shipping & tax included)
- and some shared learning’s below.

Nuts & Bearings
Axle nuts (Ford XW4Z-4B477-AA): $21.66 / pair
Bearings (Timken 511032) Purchased from eBay user ID "discountautoparts" ph. 888-311-5148: $63.72 / pair

Special tools:
35mm axle nut socket (AutoZone 25153): $18.05
12-ton Shop Press (Harbor freight 33497): $110.49
Bearing separator (Harbor freight 3979): $22.09

Total: $236.01 - I now have a shop press and bearing separator

While in there, I found a seized caliper slide, worn brakes and worn LH upper ball joint. I was able to free the caliper slide, but spent another $100 on new pads and rotors. I'm still trying to find an inexpensive rear upper control arm. Suggestions?

Shared learning’s: - in order of importance
1. I found the shop press, bearing separator and bearing installer tools absolutely necessary for this job.
2. Be sure to support the inner race of the new bearing when pressing the hub back in - otherwise the new bearing will be damaged.
3. Good luck using a puller to separate the axle from the hub - as shown in the shop manual. My suggestion is to protect the axle threads with something like a wooden block then use a mallet to hammer it through. I have also used a large lead hammer for things like this in the past.
4. I used AutoZone’s free tool loan program for a bearing and race installer set (27119)

[shorod]

Thanks for the information, good stuff!

As for a source for an inexpensive rear upper control arm, I'm not sure you'll find something that inexpensive and good. You might try Fast Parts Network. This will be an OEM part but not quite at dealer prices.

-Rod

[wh_4741]

Originally Posted by shorod

As for a source for an inexpensive rear upper control arm, I'm not sure you'll find something that inexpensive and good. You might try Fast Parts Network. This will be an OEM part but not quite at dealer prices.

-Rod

Nice resource Rod. Thanks for letting me know. It looks like it will save me around $30.