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  #1  
Old 11-10-2010, 11:55 AM
Tinkerin_wit_tools Tinkerin_wit_tools is offline
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I don't know JACK....

This coming weekend I will have to replace the water pump on my 1994 LeSabre and since I have to remove the motor mount, I have read somewhere in the past that I can place my hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x6 underneath the engine for support. I have tried to look it up again with no luck but I wanted to put forth the question again, which is where do I place it so as not to cause damage when putting it underneath the engine for support???
Another thing that I am kind of worried about, is that I have driven it the past two days with no incident and I will be needing it for the next few days. I am not absolutely sure that it is working, but I know it is leaking because of having to refill the resevoir with coolant and water at least once daily. I know it has a possibility of overheating but will it be ok for the next few days if I just keep feeding it with coolant??? It isn't a slow drip, or pouring out. But when the car comes to rest and cools down, so does the amount of coolant coming out. Thank you in advance for any input given to all.
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:45 PM
maxwedge maxwedge is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

You will be ok by keeping the coolant level up assuming it is just the w/p. A good how to can be found at autozone.com, repair guides, register and go to engine mechanical.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:18 PM
Tinkerin_wit_tools Tinkerin_wit_tools is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwedge View Post
You will be ok by keeping the coolant level up assuming it is just the w/p. A good how to can be found at autozone.com, repair guides, register and go to engine mechanical.
Well, I went to autozone before I posted and this is the only thing they say about supporting the block:

For 1992-95 vehicles, remove the torque axis mount, as follows:
  1. Use a suitable engine support fixture and lifting bracket to raise the engine slightly to take the weight off of the engine mounts.
It doesn't tell you where to put the supports and I don't want to damage anything. I have been told to keep it away from the oil pan and also two different storied on where I should put some 2x4 pieces of wood to brace. That is all I want to know so I don't cause any damage and to be able to replace the bolts into the mount and block flush as not to strip them, that's all. If anyone has any input on this, please write. Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:31 PM
maxwedge maxwedge is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

The wood under the oil pan is one way, you only have to jack it up slighly, make sure the other mounts are loose or you will strain other attaching points and not get the engine up enough.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:01 PM
auto trainy auto trainy is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

Just a thought, make sure the elbows are good and not leaking,good luck.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:23 PM
Tinkerin_wit_tools Tinkerin_wit_tools is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

Wanted to post my success story for this issue. It did take me most of a whole day, but since I am not ASE certified, well, that is the norm. I did put a small 2x6 chunk of wood underneath my oil pan for support and slowly raised the engine to remove the pressure on the motor mount bolts. Once that was removed, and let me tell you, it was NOT easy, I removed the alternator for some clearance enough to work, then was able to get to the water pump. Gasket sealant on, water pump on, everything back together and let it sit for approximately 24 hours for it to cure, and all I did was fill it back with antifreeze and water. Let it run up to operating temp and didn't see a single drop. Since test drive yesterday and running it for most of today, it's been great.
Here is what I have learned and can share with others that are attempting this: Motor Mounts aren't easy, if you have a pry bar, use it, if not, get one. Use 1/2" drive tools, such as ratchet, sockets, extentions, and breaker bar, the extra torque will help with removing those rusted on, never removed bolts and fasteners ( I snapped my 3/8 extention and adapter almost immediately on them). If you have impact sockets, they are more preferable. Allow for the curing time of 12-24 hours if you can and make sure mating surface is as clean as you can get it. You will get much better results on all the extra time and effort you put into this.
Good luck and don't hesitate to write for questions.
Starting to love working on the 'ole girl and every little bit gives me more and more confidence in attempting more complex jobs. At least I can rub it in the face of at least two people that didn't think I could do it!! Good luck all.........
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Old 11-16-2010, 07:52 AM
xs03mich xs03mich is offline
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Re: I don't know JACK....

Good job!
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