97 Riv, Service Engine Soon lamp

[edwinn]

The orange "Service Engine Soon" lamp came on this morning. What's the best way to diagnose? I can stop by a GM dealer on the way home this afternoon (for $$$) or buy a hand-held diagnostic device from Sears. Also have service manuals from user `sprucegoose´ which should have the codes and procedures. My 86 Riv would display all that info on the monochrome dash display!!


-edwinn

[edwinn]

The problem has been diagnosed and solved, at least for the past two engine/trip cycles. I bought a Craftsman CanOBD2 model #87702 Diagnostic Tool.. normally 124.99, on sale for 99.99 with an extra 20.00 off using a Gift Card in my wallet. It came with a USB cable and PC software.

The DTC or code was P1441, "EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge." I recorded the code and reset the warning light. It hasn't come back on thus far. For 80-bucks, the red and black Craftsman gadget is well worth it. The dealer would have charge min 50-bucks to diagnose.




Now for the solution. The GM shop manual says that the solenoid-operated Purge Valve could be leaking or contaminated with carbon particles.

-ed

[HotZ28]

More than likely, you have a vacuum elbow on the purge solenoid cracked & leaking vacuum. This can be hard to see, because they usually crack on the bottom. You will need to remove all the fittings for closer inspection.

[edwinn]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

More than likely, you have a vacuum elbow on the purge solenoid cracked & leaking vacuum. This can be hard to see, because they usually crack on the bottom. You will need to remove all the fittings for closer inspection.

Not long after your reply, the Service Engine lamp started to come on more often. It would turn off after a few days, maybe a week. I took it in to a Service Dept and they replaced the appropriate vacuum switch (or solenoid) and some tubing parts.

Was able to inspect the engine in much more detail this past week, and went to "juice up" some of the vacuum elbows and connectors and found they would basically dissolve into "black grime" in my hand and on the wash rag. They would NOT take any ArmorAll without disintegrating further.



Next.. will measure the tube diameters with calipers.


Must find new ones!! the dealer doesn't have many of them today, and most come as part of a tubing assy (or once did.)

Any source for these ELBOWS? How about the local NAPA store?


-Ed

[maxwedge]

Napa may be able to get some thru the Dorman " help parts" catalogue.

[edwinn]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Napa may be able to get some thru the Dorman " help parts" catalogue.

Thanks Man,

That's what the DelcoLine guys said later on as well. I spent all day dicking around with these plastic tubes and rubber things yesterday, and was able to measure (with calipers) each and every size. It was a good learning experience!!


The first ones to go are on the switch where are wire is chewed.

There are two devices in series that I can't quite figure out! Anyway these are the semi-rigid lines that connect it. The dealer says the boots come with the assy, but the lines are new and the boots are original.





The fittings have about had it!!





Got some nice heavy 1/4" heater hose from NAPA (a sample) and it fits really well. Just cut to length with a razor, take the tube and "hose piece" indoors and run under HOT water, then shove them together, twisting until it's seated against the stop. Then in she goes!! This is going to be GOOD!





Next to go is the INPUT side where the 1/4" tube transitions to a 1/2" port on the throttle body. That in-line adapter is pretty much SHOT.





Lastly, the fuel line switch has two ELBOWS that are in "ok" shape but are getting crisp and brittle. They took a lot of juice and have softened up some. Both of these are 0.25" to 0.31" elbows (the switch has two 0.31" ports) and the LOWER one over the manifold is slightly bigger and heavier.




So yeah... lots of hours scrounging for 50 cent parts.


-Ed