Varnish/clear coat in Spray to protect decals

[thunderfyg]

Hi guys,

I have finally decided to get into this world of modeling and start building 1:43 rally cars, I am likely to start with one racing43 or Arena kit.

I do not have an airbrush and I do not plan to buy one for the time being. My question is, once I have placed all the rally decals on their place, can anyone recommend me one varnish/clear coating product in Spray to apply over the decals that does not attack them and will prevent them from getting yellow?

I have been recommended laquer used for the real cars but my main worry is that the coat over the decals is likely to result too thick if apply in spray.

Thanks a lot for your help. I know that the key for a real nice finish is to use a good clear coating product so your answers will mean a lot to me and help me a lot.

I look forward to hearing from you soon,

Felix

[stevenoble]

You can use many clear coats to protect your decals, including the types used for full size cars. If you are just starting out and want a nice, easy to apply, quick drying clear with little risk of damaging your decals, I would recommend Gunze Top Coat in an aerosol. It's pretty cheap, easy to use and would be a great product for a beginner in my opinion.

[thunderfyg]

Hi Steve,

You don´t know how much I appreciate your answer.

One question, if I use this product, do you know if with passing of time the decals will get yellow? If not, I think I have got my product. (you read my mind about what I wanted)

I heard about mr Color products, but I think Gunze Top Coat is better right?

I do not mind paying for coat as the final result of the models depends a lot on getting the right product, so if you have another recommendation worth it even though if considerably more expensive than Gunze, please let me know.

About where to get it, do you know a website to place a order for it?

Finally, about the application, how many layers should I give 2 maybe? How long should I wait between the application of any layer? Once appplied, to polish the top coat a little just in case there are imperfections and want to get the model a little more shiny, how long should I wait for the top coat to cure, 2 weeks?

Thanks a lot for your help and sorry for the amount of questions, but you don´t have any idea how useful your replies will be for me.

Felix

[stevenoble]

I have quite a few models that I have used the Top Coat on, built maybe 3 years ago and they still haven't yellowed yet. I usually apply 2 light coats and two wet coats, with 5-10 mins between each coat. I then leave the parts to dry for between 24 and 48 hours before I polish. If you can leave it longer than this it will be better though. A week is good...
Most online hobby shops stock the Gunze Top Coat try Hobbylink Japan, Hiroboy etc. The best clear I have used is Zero 2K, available at Hiroboy.com, but it's airbrush only, so for now if you have no airbrush it's not much use to you, unfortunately... Because it is really good stuff....

[thunderfyg]

Thanks a lot for the reply. Just as confirmation this is the product right?

[thunderfyg]

Sorry the picture did not appear:

http://www.hobbykit-import.com/popup...afcacdb12c6ef0

[stevenoble]

The picture you posted is their lacquer based product. It's still very good, but you have to be careful with it over decals.

This is the water based version that I used. Ignore the fact it says 'matt' finish it also comes in gloss and semi gloss as well...

[thunderfyg]

Ok, I see.

One thing it worries me. Acrylic is supposed to be easier to use. However, is more tender than lacquer. Therefore, lacquer is suppossed to be more resistant and last more.

If I want to use the lacquer version, what considerations I should take into account to prevent the decals from getting damaged?

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by thunderfyg

Ok, I see.

One thing it worries me. Acrylic is supposed to be easier to use. However, is more tender than lacquer. Therefore, lacquer is suppossed to be more resistant and last more.

If I want to use the lacquer version, what considerations I should take into account to prevent the decals from getting damaged?

The acrylic is a little softer and does mark a little easier. It depends if you will handle the models a lot after they are built..?? Although that said the Top Coat is still pretty tough stuff...
If you go for the lacquer version I would test it first on some decals, just to be safe. The worst thing is if you do it for the first time on your model and it ruins the decals. But go easy with it, build it up in light coats, take your time with it and go slowly. This should yield the best results...

[thunderfyg]

Sorry for the delay and thanks a lot for the reply. Once the model is built, I plan to put it inside a display case and not take it out of there anymore.

The thing I am worried is that if I use acrylic after 5-10 years the top coat will start deteriorating and the decals getting yellowish, this is why I thought to go for lacquer as it much thinner and the result is likely to last for more time and keep the shine forever. I do not mind to have to wait between layers 1 day if at the end I am getting a good result.

However, I did not know that acrylic does mark easier and therefore, it is much easier to get good results. Additinally, if I understood well your replies, apart from the question of harness and maybe lasting if I am handling the model, and please correct me if I am wrong, the final result between the 2 products, acrylic and lacquer is likely to be very similar, right?

Finally, if I try to make a couple of testing with the lacquer (I have a Tamiya bodywork I can use), I should apply very thin layers. How long do you advise me to wait between layers so I prevent the decals from getting damage, maybe one day?

Anyway based on the replies from the questions above if it is easier and it is not going to make a huge difference I will go for acrylic. I have read about lacquers applied from aerosol resulting in most of the cases in damage to the decals.

Thanks a lot

[ZTony8]

If it's available over there,try some of the Testor's "One Coat" clear lacquer.It's very mild and doesn't seem to bother decals like Tamiya TS-13 is prone to do.

[thunderfyg]

Thanks for reply. One question, does not Testor get yellowish with the passsing of time? I am a little concerned about that.

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by thunderfyg

Thanks for reply. One question, does not Testor get yellowish with the passsing of time? I am a little concerned about that.

To be honest, the only clear I have used that has never yellowed one bit is 2k Urethane. I always use 2k over white paintwork or where there are white decals present, because obviously any yellowing is very noticeable on white.
If your model colour isn't white, then the yellowing will not be noticeable. As an example I built the Tamiya Benetton B192 which has yellow and green paintwork, so the was no need to worry about the clear yellowing.

[thunderfyg]

Thanks your reply Steve,

These are the models I plant to build to start:





Unfortunately, these models and others on my list are white.

Anyway, if the Gunze Top Coat has not yellowed yet in the models you applied it, it is likely not to do so. Therefore, it could be my best option.

Otherwise, if I want to go for Zero 2k Urethane and get and airbrush only for clear coat, do I have to spend a considerable amount of money on the airbrush to get a nice result? If not, do you recommend one model for only clear coat for 1:43 scale?

Finally, have you used or heard something about the Testor's "One Coat" recomended by Tony?

Thanks a lot for everything

Felix

[stevenoble]

Hi Felix,

I haven't seen or used the 'Testors One Coat' myself. There are no local shops that sell it near me in the UK, so I can't comment on it's use.
You certainly don't need an ultra expensive airbrush if it's just for applying clear. The scale you are building is not so important, as even a cheap airbrush is usually adjustable for flow, so you can spray heavier or lighter coats dependent on your choice. For many years I used the very simplest Badger syphon type airbrush for applying clear and it worked really well.

This is the kind I refer to, it cost less than £10



Tamiya Benetton B192, which I cleared with the Mr Top Coat



Tamiya Suzuki Hayabusa cleared with Zero 2K