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  #1  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:41 PM
Redline69 Redline69 is offline
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Rear AC line problem

Our 2000 SEL came with the rear heat/air option. At the time I thought it would be nice to have,but it's really been a pain. The problem is with the rear AC. There is a high pressure line that runs along the bottom drivers side of the van,and it goes up over the rear wheel into the side of the van,and into condensor.. I assume. The line always lets go at the same crimp. It's a manufacturing problem,as the same line crimp always lets go. We've had it fixed 4 times,and again,it's starting to fade this summer. I'm NOT happy having to take it back in,and have them AGAIN replace a faulty line. Ford will replace the line ONCE (cost of the part only)..then again you have to buy a new one,have it replaced, to start the process over.
Here's my question. IS there a way to by-pass that rear AC,and just leave the front AC intact?

Thanks.

Frank
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:03 AM
mark_gober mark_gober is offline
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Re: Rear AC line problem

Frank,

This is an extremely wierd problem. I have a 2000 SE and it has never done it. I'd argue the exact opposite problem. My rear A/C has been rock solid since I purchased it. The front gives me problems, but never the rear. Is it coming apart at one of the junctions that uses the special a/c spring type fittings that require a special tool to disassemble. I realize that you've had this problem several times, but you could just try replacing the spring that holds it all together. They can be purchased from Rock Auto.Com if you purchase the O-Ring kit.

Another option would be to use thin wire and simply wire the two sections together so that they don't separate again. (Similar to Aircraft safety wires, if you are familiar with that). I've NEVER heard of this problem before. Would it be possible to climb under there and supply us with a picture of the junction that keeps separating? It may help us troubleshoot it.

Mark



Frank[/quote]
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:18 PM
Redline69 Redline69 is offline
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Re: Rear AC line problem

Hi Mark,

It's a high pressure line that runs back andup into the rear drivers side of the van. It always fails at the factory crimp. The last time they fixed it,they wrapped it with some butyl (sp?),to try and help hold it together,and provide some protection against vibration.

I'm really just wondering if there is an easy way I can by-pass that rear AC part of the system,and let the front AC continue.

TIA.

Frank
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:41 PM
tomj76 tomj76 is offline
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Re: Rear AC line problem

To bypass the rear air, you'd either need to (1) plug the supply line where it splits the high pressure liquid between the front and rear systems [located just in front of the fire wall] AND plug the evaporator (evaporators are inside the passenger compartment) return line at the accumulator/dryer OR (2) replace the liquid line that runs from the condensor (condensor is in front of the engine) to the fire wall and the accumlator with the models that are for front air only.

A crimp issue sounds like a problem at the joint between hardline and flexible hose. Does the hose pull off the hardline, or does the hose crack/cut?
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:46 AM
Redline69 Redline69 is offline
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Re: Rear AC line problem

Hi,
The problem is with the crimp. It doesn't properly hold,and leaks coolant.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm assuming those lines would have to be cut and flared to get the best plug?
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:08 PM
tomj76 tomj76 is offline
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Re: Rear AC line problem

So, the refrigerant is leaking from inside the crimp jacket?

The A/C lines all have ends designed for "quick connect" fittings. Fittings is really a loose term here, because I don't think you can buy a separate fitting to put over the ends. Not only that, the lines are generally made from aluminium, which probits any chance of soldering a cap over the lines. Everything has to be vacuum tight, meaning leak rates the very low. Any pinholes would be a problem, so I'd expect problems crimping those things.

I think the cleanest, surest way to disable the rear unit is to replace the lines with front only components. It will cost you at least $100 for the parts, then another $100 to evacuate and recharge the system.

Have you tried contacting Ford directly, bypassing the dealership? There seems to be no reasonable explaination for this repeated failure.
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