1996 explorer trouble

[dude6]

Im showing 2 codes p1120 throtle possition sensor A out of range. and also p1121 throtle possition sensor A inconsistant with maf/map sensor. anybody know what this means and, where are these sensors located and is it a big job fixing? thanks dude

[shorod]

Pasted below are the possible causes for P1120 according to the 1997 Factory Service Manual (I don't have the 1996 manual):
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1120 indicates the TP signal is within the Self-Test range but below the closed throttle position range of 3.43% to 9.80% (0.17 to 0.49 volt).

NOTE:
Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.

Possible causes:

-- Frayed wires.
-- Corrosion on TP sensor, PCM or harness connectors.
-- VREF harness opens or shorts.
-- Damaged TP sensor.
-- Damaged PCM.

And for the P1121:
Continuous Memory DTC P1121 indicates the TP sensor is inconsistent with the MAF sensor.

NOTE:
Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.

Possible causes:

-- Damaged TP sensor.
-- TP sensor not seated properly (almost completely detached from throttle body).
-- Air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body.

Since the only cause common to both codes is a damaged throttle position sensor (TPS), you might start there. The TPS is generally very easy to get to and typically held in place with 2 screws. It will be mounted to the throttle body at one end of the throttle plate shaft. It will generally have 3 wires going to it.

If you want to test the TPS, you will need a multimeter. With the meter set to Vdc, and if it's not autoranging, use the 20 V scale, backprobe what's probably a Gray/Red wire with the black meter lead and the Gray/White wire with the red meter lead. Turn the key to the run position with the throttle closed. The voltage on the meter will either start at something close to what's listed above (0.17-0.49Vdc) and steadily increase to something close to 5Vdc or it will start at something close to 5Vdc and steadily decrease to something close to 0.1Vdc. If you notice the meter jumping momentarily in either direction, or not coming to rest near one of the limits, there's either something preventing the throttle plate from closing completely or there's a defect with the TPS.

If you are not able to backprobe the connector easily you can leave the key in the OFF position, unplug the TPS, and use the Ohms/Resistance scale of the meter and instead of monitoring for steady increase or decrease in voltage, watch for a steady change in resistance.

-Rod

[dude6]

Originally Posted by shorod

Pasted below are the possible causes for P1120 according to the 1997 Factory Service Manual (I don't have the 1996 manual):
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1120 indicates the TP signal is within the Self-Test range but below the closed throttle position range of 3.43% to 9.80% (0.17 to 0.49 volt).

NOTE:
Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.

Possible causes:

-- Frayed wires.
-- Corrosion on TP sensor, PCM or harness connectors.
-- VREF harness opens or shorts.
-- Damaged TP sensor.
-- Damaged PCM.

And for the P1121:
Continuous Memory DTC P1121 indicates the TP sensor is inconsistent with the MAF sensor.

NOTE:
Throttle Position Sensor A (TP-A) is the same as Throttle Position (TP) Sensor.

Possible causes:

-- Damaged TP sensor.
-- TP sensor not seated properly (almost completely detached from throttle body).
-- Air leak between MAF sensor and throttle body.

Since the only cause common to both codes is a damaged throttle position sensor (TPS), you might start there. The TPS is generally very easy to get to and typically held in place with 2 screws. It will be mounted to the throttle body at one end of the throttle plate shaft. It will generally have 3 wires going to it.

If you want to test the TPS, you will need a multimeter. With the meter set to Vdc, and if it's not autoranging, use the 20 V scale, backprobe what's probably a Gray/Red wire with the black meter lead and the Gray/White wire with the red meter lead. Turn the key to the run position with the throttle closed. The voltage on the meter will either start at something close to what's listed above (0.17-0.49Vdc) and steadily increase to something close to 5Vdc or it will start at something close to 5Vdc and steadily decrease to something close to 0.1Vdc. If you notice the meter jumping momentarily in either direction, or not coming to rest near one of the limits, there's either something preventing the throttle plate from closing completely or there's a defect with the TPS.

If you are not able to backprobe the connector easily you can leave the key in the OFF position, unplug the TPS, and use the Ohms/Resistance scale of the meter and instead of monitoring for steady increase or decrease in voltage, watch for a steady change in resistance.

-Rod

i forgot to say that the p1120 code said it was out of range, does this matter or would you still start with the tps thanks

[shorod]

As mentioned in post #2 above, pasted from the factory service manual P1120 indicates the TP signal is within the Self-Test range but below the closed throttle position range of 3.43% to 9.80% (0.17 to 0.49 volt). And the manual also lists a bad TPS as one of the possible causes (Damaged TP sensor). So, yes, I would still start by testing the TPS to confirm it is bad or not.

-Rod

[dude6]

Originally Posted by shorod

As mentioned in post #2 above, pasted from the factory service manual P1120 indicates the TP signal is within the Self-Test range but below the closed throttle position range of 3.43% to 9.80% (0.17 to 0.49 volt). And the manual also lists a bad TPS as one of the possible causes (Damaged TP sensor). So, yes, I would still start by testing the TPS to confirm it is bad or not.

-Rod

thanks for all your info, unfortunatly this peice has been replaced before and the 2 screws was replaced with phillups head screws and probably [locktighted] being they just striped, so my next step would be to grind the heads off the screws,pull the sensor off and then get vicegrips and take the screws out. does this sound as it would work, or my luck and the screws will have a shoulder on them

[shorod]

Have you confirmed that the TPS is bad, or are you just wanting to shotgun parts?

-Rod

[dude6]

Originally Posted by shorod

Have you confirmed that the TPS is bad, or are you just wanting to shotgun parts?

-Rod

No I havent , But I will get a multimeter , and check it like you said in the previous post before I remove anything, thanks for your info dude