2000 Sierra 5.3L Z71 Power steering stopped working.

[ThrottleAbuse]

When I got home tonight I backed the trailer up the drive and had it at full lock to get the trailer into the final position. When I went to turn the other way to park the truck no power steering. No power steering in either direction. Where should I start? I have no clue what to look for. No leak onto the ground or anything. Its dark so I just parked it for tonight. Thanks.

[markdpro]

1 Did you lose your serpentine belt?
2 Did the belt tensioner fail?
3 Could be the power steering pump.

[ThrottleAbuse]

I did end up replacing the power steering pump. I took it out and without completely taking it apart I noticed the pulley shaft could be pulled out an inch or so pretty easily. I figured it snapped inside the pump.

I also have noticed the serpentine belt slips a little on startup. I have been going through a bit of coolant and after being under the truck I noticed it is coming out of the water pump area. I can't see the weep hole on the pump. Maybe the skid plate is in the way of getting a clean view. I can see a wee bit of coolant on one of the pulleys and am thinking that causes the bit of slipping at startup. Tensioner seems good, but I thought there would be a indicator for when the serpentine belt starts to get to long and should be replaced. Truck has 125k on it so I am sure it wouldnt hurt. Wish I could tell if I need a new water pump or just the gaskets. Going to try and fix it next week on my day off.

Thanks for the help.

[ThrottleAbuse]

So I replaced the water pump gaskets and when I removed the lower bolts they had a fair amount of gunk on them and you could see that coolant was leaking onto them and the engine below the gaskets. I put it all back together and it seems ok. I ran the truck for awhile and took it for a 20 minute or so drive. When I got back I looked at the weep hole. Found an angle that I can see it with a flashlight under the truck. Low and behold I could see a drip come out every few seconds. So I guess next week I will tear into it and replace the entire pump and gaskets again. Belt was squeaking fairly good on startup again.

I am still having issues with the power steering. How can I tell if the belt is worn out? Or the tensioner needs replacing. Tensioner feels strong when I put a wrench on it to remove the belt. I would like to fix the leaky coolant issue before I replace the belt. Power steering works fine most of the time. When I pull into work I go up a short little hill then I have to turn to the left slightly to crank it hard right to go down the aisle in the parking lot. Everytime I turn it to the right when doing this it feels like the power steering is gone at the halfway mark. After a split second the power steering has power again and I can make it into the aisle. By the time I drive 50 ft and park it in a spot and turn the wheel both directions the steering is fine. Any ideas? Thanks.

[j cAT]

when replacing the power steering pump ,after it is installed raise both wheels off the ground. fill the pump with fluid then start engine and fill pump an turn wheels left right and contiune to fill.

with both wheels off ground no damge to new pump...wheels on ground pump can be damaged.


water pump leak at weep hole may be causing the belt slip/ or fluid on belt. remove belt and wash with dish soap and reinstall .


does this vehicle use dexcool ?

[j cAT]

use a mirror with a light when its dark out/low light you will be able to see these water pump areas /remove air intake hoses to throttlebody.

[ThrottleAbuse]

After I replaced the pump I did have the front wheels off the ground I did the bleed without the engine running by going lock to lock and adding fluid. I thought that was the best way to do it and not have the engine running.

The weep hole only appears to let out a drop or two on shutdown. It doesnt seem to be leaking very much at all. I think the bulk of it was coming out of the gaskets as the two lower bolts had quite a bit of gunk on them from coolant. I guess I will try and clean the belt. It does look pretty old with alot of small cracks starting to show on the sides. And yes this engine does use dexacool.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse

After I replaced the pump I did have the front wheels off the ground I did the bleed without the engine running by going lock to lock and adding fluid. I thought that was the best way to do it and not have the engine running.

The weep hole only appears to let out a drop or two on shutdown. It doesnt seem to be leaking very much at all. I think the bulk of it was coming out of the gaskets as the two lower bolts had quite a bit of gunk on them from coolant. I guess I will try and clean the belt. It does look pretty old with alot of small cracks starting to show on the sides. And yes this engine does use dexacool.

the water pump leaking at the gaskets is a common failure. usually the aluminun gets damaged from the use of non dexcool or using non distilled water/also low concentration of dexcool to control corrosion.

to determine the coolant concentration you need a special tester for dexcool.

when you remove the water pump use some metal repair material and sand smooth to restore the damaged metal surface of the gasket seating area if necessary.


cracks mean the belt is brittle and hard. the small cracks tell this story. be carefull and make sure the belt you buy is the correct width and length. advance auto insisted that they had the correct belt for my vehicle when it was too wide and long .

before removal of the old belt mark the tension idler , compare with the new belt installed should be very close.

[ThrottleAbuse]

Originally Posted by j cAT

the water pump leaking at the gaskets is a common failure. usually the aluminun gets damaged from the use of non dexcool or using non distilled water/also low concentration of dexcool to control corrosion.

to determine the coolant concentration you need a special tester for dexcool.

when you remove the water pump use some metal repair material and sand smooth to restore the damaged metal surface of the gasket seating area if necessary.


cracks mean the belt is brittle and hard. the small cracks tell this story. be carefull and make sure the belt you buy is the correct width and length. advance auto insisted that they had the correct belt for my vehicle when it was too wide and long .

before removal of the old belt mark the tension idler , compare with the new belt installed should be very close.

Thanks for all the help j cAT. I replaced the main belt and the AC belt and no more squeeking. I still however have the weird loss of power steering. I put the truck on jack stands and turned the wheel back and forth without the engine running and its smooth with no odd sounds or resistance. I then started the truck and did the same back and forth about two dozen times. Still having issues. Its hard to tell, but it may have helped a little. Is there another way to bleed the system or should I maybe just try doing it again?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse

Thanks for all the help j cAT. I replaced the main belt and the AC belt and no more squeeking. I still however have the weird loss of power steering. I put the truck on jack stands and turned the wheel back and forth without the engine running and its smooth with no odd sounds or resistance. I then started the truck and did the same back and forth about two dozen times. Still having issues. Its hard to tell, but it may have helped a little. Is there another way to bleed the system or should I maybe just try doing it again?

new does not mean its good. I would get another pump, with what you have done/checked so far.

if the steering was hard always this may mean the steering box is worn .

another possibility would be the EVO. electronic variable orifice.

this has a sensor at the base of the steering column, called the EVO sensor these can go bad .it may be intermittent in its working causing the steering effort to increase ........this is on vehicles/trucks with out ride control are BCM controlling all this by the pump solenoid orifice .

try replacing this evo sensor next.

[ThrottleAbuse]

Originally Posted by j cAT

new does not mean its good. I would get another pump, with what you have done/checked so far.

if the steering was hard always this may mean the steering box is worn .

another possibility would be the EVO. electronic variable orifice.

this has a sensor at the base of the steering column, called the EVO sensor these can go bad .it may be intermittent in its working causing the steering effort to increase ........this is on vehicles/trucks with out ride control are BCM controlling all this by the pump solenoid orifice .

try replacing this evo sensor next.

I don't know that I am following you here. Are you saying I should replace the pump again?

Not sure what you are saying about the EVO sensor either. My truck doesn't have ride control. Where can I buy the EVO sensor. I tried to look for it online with no luck. I am guessing the Parts counter at a dealer would have it. I need to go to one anyway because I think the sensor went out for my Daytime running lights. Headlights go on no matter what now. Tried to replace the relay with no luck.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse

I don't know that I am following you here. Are you saying I should replace the pump again?

Not sure what you are saying about the EVO sensor either. My truck doesn't have ride control. Where can I buy the EVO sensor. I tried to look for it online with no luck. I am guessing the Parts counter at a dealer would have it. I need to go to one anyway because I think the sensor went out for my Daytime running lights. Headlights go on no matter what now. Tried to replace the relay with no luck.

the EVO is controlled on vehicles with out ride control by BCM.
intermittent hard steering its posibble that it is the EVO sensor at the base of the steering column .

still could be the pump. when you replaced the pump did the steering effort issues change any ? if not go for the EVO sensor.

[ThrottleAbuse]

The old pump the output shafted was sheared off inside. I could move the output shaft in and out at least and inch. So I had zero power until the pump was replaced.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by ThrottleAbuse

The old pump the output shafted was sheared off inside. I could move the output shaft in and out at least and inch. So I had zero power until the pump was replaced.

so replace the "NEW" pump.
you now have the other info should you still find that the power steering intermittently drops out.


on the old body style this EVO was a BIG problem ..on our vehicles no.