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#1
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Oil and Filter
WHat kind of oil would you recommend for my car, a 1991 1.6 EX with nothing but a CAI and exhaust. Also, any filters work better than others. And this is also the first time I've done an oil change on the Civic (let alone any Honda) so any tips?
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The Civic is gone... The Camry never ran... The Chevy is here to stay... The Ultimate Honda Engine
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#2
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I'd read an owner's manual, but they usually recommend 10w30 or 10w40, depending on how cold and how hot it'll get where you live.
Tip number one: When you put the new filter on, get a little bit of fresh oil on your finger, and smear it around on the little rubber seal on the oil filter. Tip number two: Put your filter on hand tight. Get it on there as tight as you can with just your hand, and then back it off just a little, less than a quarter-turn. It doesn't need to be gut-busting tight. Tip number three: Clean up the oil pan plug bolt. Check it out-does it have any filings on it? Tip number four: Check your work. Oil pan plug bolt in and tight (but not gut-busting tight)? Correct amount of oil poured back in? (That's 3.7 quarts, for my D15) Is the oil filler cap back on? Really, is the oil filler cap back on? Flunky PS-Ok, once I was a dumbass, and started pouring the new oil in without putting the plug bolt back. Boy, did I feel stupid. At least there were no witnesses, or else I would have to move to a different town. |
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#3
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any particular brands that tend to work better?
__________________
The Civic is gone... The Camry never ran... The Chevy is here to stay... The Ultimate Honda Engine
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#4
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I always use genuine honda filter, and i use Mobil 1 oil too, but thats just my preference
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Jim - Your Resident EDM Biatch B16A1 I/H/E 4TH GEN UK SITE Honda Civic EE9 1.6-i VT |
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#5
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Fram and quakerstate for me also the subie filter for the 2.5 NA motor fits my dad got a box free and the are the same part # from fram and they fit up hes got on his rex right now works fine
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#6
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Mobile 1 is supposed to be the best Non-OEM made filter. I used OEM Honda ones, they come with a new drain plug washer unlike the aftermarket ones.
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http://www.fourthgenhatch.com FOR SALE: Get this stuff out of my house! -Stock hood (red) $30 -Stock Rear Spoiler (red) $30 -Stock mirrors $30/both -Stock side front and rear side glass $30/piece |
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#7
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well i have an STP filter (S2808) that my bro told me he got some tiem ago, tis just been sittin in the garage, will that be ok to use or should i just get another? And should i get regular, synthetic, or the mixed one? and anyone know which is for hot climates, 10w30 or 40?
__________________
The Civic is gone... The Camry never ran... The Chevy is here to stay... The Ultimate Honda Engine
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#8
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The higher the number is, the thicker the oil. The oil used in most other standard transmissions and rear axles is 90 weight.
If you're in high temperatures, you want the thick stuff. Using that as my measuring stick, I'd say 10w40. That's what I use, and it gets hot here in New Mexico. I see you live in College Station. I haven't been in the jungle, but apart from that, College Station has got to be the number one hottest, muggiest, stickiest, most miserable place I can think of. I had the job of dismantling the warehouses at the old cotton gin in Bryan, so I know! Flunky PS-At least it's green... |
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#9
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Always replace the drain plug washer with every oil change Honda & Acura
I use 0w-30 Mobil 1 for winter & 5w-50 Penzoil for summer both synthetic. Also using a honda filter each time. They are stronger than most on the market & come with a washer. Becareful not to damage the oil pressure sensor located near the oil filter Make sure the old filter gasket is removed before installing the new filter. Lube the new filter gasket for ease of removal next time For turbo engines you want to pre-fill the filter before installing. I do this no matter what type of engine. After adding oil & changing the filter run the engine for a minute, make sure you have oil pressure & look underneath for any leaks. Then check the filter, make sure its tight & warm:licker: & also check the plug to make sure its tight. no need to over-tighten the plug |
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#10
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u should fill the filter anyways, doesnt matter if its a turbo engine or not. u dont want a dry start up
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#11
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I would never use anything other than a genuine honda filter - ever. Cut the sucker open and compare it to a non-genuine one and most times you will see a better quality filter. Besides, it's designed to the cars specs.
Mobil one synthetic is the go - but there can be hassles if your car has used mineral oil all its life previously. |
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#12
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Quote:
Synthetic is the only way to go if your seals are ok. Temps where I live vary from -2 to 45 degrees Celsius (bloody hot). Mobil 1 is the best mix for our extremes. |
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#13
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just a question, my car has been run on Mobil 1 all its lifei think, wellfor the last 13 years at least that i know of, and the engine ticks loudly, would that be due to the oil , its done 79,000 miles????
__________________
Jim - Your Resident EDM Biatch B16A1 I/H/E 4TH GEN UK SITE Honda Civic EE9 1.6-i VT |
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#14
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Not to do with the oil I dont think, all Hondas seem to have noisy valve train, even when the valves are tensioned properly. I have had the same issue with all of mine (about 12 or so all up I think).
My 4G GL with twin-carb 1500 in it was the same and then I used BP Corse in it which was a different weighting |
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#15
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how can i shut it up then or at least make it quieter ?
new valve tappets will cost the earth i think, do u get 1.3's over there?
__________________
Jim - Your Resident EDM Biatch B16A1 I/H/E 4TH GEN UK SITE Honda Civic EE9 1.6-i VT |
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