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Old 08-01-2010, 06:18 PM
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Front Sway Bar Help Needed

I got new Moog front sway bar bushings today for my stock 27mm sway bar. I sprayed down the bushing clamp nuts (4) with PB Blaster a few hours before trying to remove them.

I began removing the two on the passenger side and they became very hard to turn and inevitably they bolts broke free and began to turn freely with the nuts.

The passenger side clamp has two bolts that are 3/4 of the way off. They can neither be loosened or tightened any further. I tried pushing pressure on the bolt head with a crow bar between the clamp and the frame but had no luck. I also tried vice grips, but only got about an extra turn out of one of the bolts.

I have a Sawz All but want to get new nuts and bolts before I cut them. I also have to be back to campus tomorrow so this needs to be done ASAP.

Do I need special bolts and nuts for this or can I just use a similar size? What do I need to keep them from spinning in the frame?

What are the part numbers for the nuts, bolts, and whatever else I need to keep them from spinning?

If the dealer doesn't have what I need in stock (and they rarely do), can I drive the car with the sway bar bracket the way it is without things stressing and breaking? I know it will sway bad in turns, but it shouldn't be too bad on the highway, right?
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2000 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
- 119k / 14.89s @ 92.11MPH [ pictures | videos ]
> Dual Flowmaster Delta 40s / J-Mod / PI Intake Manifold & Cams / Marauder Air Box & 80mm MAF / 3.55 Trac-Lok
> Bumper Tuck / Steeda UD Pulleys / CVPI Zip Tube / Ported & Polished Plenum / BBK 70mm TB
> BOC 93 Octane Tune / Headlight Relay Upgrade / 17mm rear stabilizer bar / Heinous Aluminum Billet Rear Control Arms
> CVPI aluminum driveshaft

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Old 08-02-2010, 01:30 PM
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Re: Front Sway Bar Help Needed

To let anyone else in this predicament know...

I was able to get the studs and retainers from one of the local dealers. I took their last 4 for around $18 so not bad. They didn't have the nuts and even the parts guy laughed when he saw they're $6.50/pc. I picked up some M10 x 1.5 nylon locking nuts at Lowes and they worked like a charm.

Ford part numbers:
N806729-S436 - Stud & Retain - M10 x 1.5 x 39 Wafer SQ
N805474-S60 - Nut - M10 x 1.5 Hex Lock P/T Nylon

I was able to loosen all 4 nuts enough to fit a Sawz All blade between the frame and the bracket so I just cut all 4 studs off. After that is was smooth sailing.

FWIW, the old bushings were 10 years old and did not look too bad with them still in place. The sway bar was able to move side-to-size quite easily before I Started this project. Now with the new Moog bushings in place, it doesn't budge. I used some ENS bushing grease for the hell of it, since I had some laying around. These should not squeak if you don't grease them anyway, since they are thermoplastic and not polyurethane.

Took it around a few corners at speed and there's no question it made a difference. Not as much of a difference as a bigger sway bar would, but this was still cheaper and less time consuming than having to cut out the end links and get new ones.

Click here for some pictures that might help someone else.
__________________

2000 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
- 119k / 14.89s @ 92.11MPH [ pictures | videos ]
> Dual Flowmaster Delta 40s / J-Mod / PI Intake Manifold & Cams / Marauder Air Box & 80mm MAF / 3.55 Trac-Lok
> Bumper Tuck / Steeda UD Pulleys / CVPI Zip Tube / Ported & Polished Plenum / BBK 70mm TB
> BOC 93 Octane Tune / Headlight Relay Upgrade / 17mm rear stabilizer bar / Heinous Aluminum Billet Rear Control Arms
> CVPI aluminum driveshaft


Last edited by Blue)(Fusion; 08-02-2010 at 02:19 PM.
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