cruise control assistance needed

[killermrob83]

1999 CV S model, 201K miles. The 'set/accel' function no longer works. It is still possible to set the cruise by turning the system on with the 'on/off' switch and then hitting the 'coast' button. While the system is then functioning in the cruise mode, the accelerate function of the 'set/accel'
switch does not work. If you hit the brake while in cruise mode, the 'resume' button functions normally and takes you back to the previously set speed. If you want to set a new speed, you have to turn the system off, then back on again, and once again set the speed with the 'coast' button. How do I go about troubleshooting this system? My first guess would be that the 'set/accel' switch is bad, but I wasn't sure how to get it out of the steering wheel to check it with a meter, and then replace it if it was bad. My dad uses the cruise control every time he drives, so I wouldn't be surprised if the switch were worn out with as many miles as are on the vehicle.

[killermrob83]

Any ideas on how to get the switches out of the steering wheel would definitely be helpful as at least that way I could test their operation (or lack of) with a meter.

[Blue)(Fusion]

I don't know of a way to get the switches out, but why not get another steering wheel from the junkyard to replace/test with?

[way2old]

You have to disable the airbag before removing it. After removal of the airbag, I think you can unbolt the switches then. If I remember correctly, they are just held in by little screws.

[killermrob83]

What is entailed in disabling and re-enabling the air bag? I'm thinking that maybe I should just leave it alone until it stops working altogether. Will I need any kind of special tools for the job?

[Blue)(Fusion]

As far as I have read, you just have to pull the negative cable off of the battery and wait 10-15 minutes, kind of like resetting the ECU.

You will need to rent a steering wheel puller from AutoZone, I believe.

[way2old]

You will not have to remove the steering wheel. Once the airbag is removed, you will have access to the screws holding the switch in.

[h3wk]

to Remove the cruise control switches Right Behind the Steering wheel you'll see two tabs or just bolts by the turn signal Switch and shifter arm unscrew those 2 bolts then pull out the airbag gently then you'll need a hex head to unscrew the switches unplug them and put it back together and Pray lmao cuz if your Lucky it's only the Switch don't forget to undo one battery cable and wait 15 mins for a Reset iv,e pulled mine apart many times it's very easy Bro!

i,m having problems with mine on my 97 which i need to fix to sell it just bought an 04 p71 with only 55,800 miles Looks Like a new car all over

but I Got a bunch of switches and Relays i,m Gonna try and fix it if I can't I guess i'll have to pay a shop to diagnose where it's dead at

[killermrob83]

Finally broke down (got my dad off of his wallet!) and purchased a fsm. The procedure is just as easy as you have all described. Will let you know what I find. I'm betting that it isn't as simple as the switch but it's worth the effort. Thanks again.

[Stale Trooper]

Originally Posted by killermrob83

Finally broke down (got my dad off of his wallet!) and purchased a fsm. The procedure is just as easy as you have all described. Will let you know what I find. I'm betting that it isn't as simple as the switch but it's worth the effort. Thanks again.

My '99 CVPI is having the exact same issue as you have described. In your last post (quoted above), you said you would post the results. What have you found out in the past 7 months?

[killermrob83]

As of today, I still have not addressed the issue, so subsequently no results to post. I do believe, in this case, that the problem is in the switches, although I now believe that the on/off switch is also becoming a problem. And why not, with 219K miles and the fact that my dad has used those switches every time he's driven the thing since '99. As for me, I do not care for cc as I want to be driving the car and not the car driving me around. Depending on how hard the switches are depressed seems to be the difference in whether or not the cc with take over. Times are tight financially, so I doubt that this issue will be getting resolved anytime in the near future. Can still get the cc to work, so won't be messing with it right away. I hardly have enough time to sleep so won't be burning the candle at both ends for something so minor. Sorry to disappoint.

[Stale Trooper]

Not a problem, I understand fully. Thanks for the quick response.

It just appeared you had 'forgotten' to update the repair due to being so happy you had gotten it fixed.

[killermrob83]

Thanks for your understanding, and I fully understand your concern over results not being posted. Afterall, the forum cannot and will not work without individuals following up with results. The idea behind the forum is not only to benefit the individual with the original post/problem, but is for the benefit of all of the members. It does bother me that I have been delinquent in getting to the root of the problem and not posting results. I will be placing a note on the countertop ASAP to at least remove the switches and test with a meter, and hope to accomplish that this weekend, and post my findings. As far as getting new switches installed to make sure that they are the only issue at hand, well, that's another story. To all you AFers that are viewing this post, I hope that you enjoy a wonderful weekend! Rob

[Stale Trooper]

killermrob83 & H3wk: An idea just occured to me. On my '99 CVPI, I had a dash lightbulb that wasn't working. I pulled it out, and before replacing it, I noticed the the filament in the bulb was intact, but the contacts on the bulbholder were not very bright. I polished up the bulb holder contacts, and it's working great now!
Perhaps we all are suffering the same issue with the switch contacts in the steering wheel! If you think about it, those switches are up front and available to everything from cigarette smoke to spilled coffe or sodas, not to mention skin oils and the accompanying dirt. I'll check mine next week (don't have time today, getting ready to go out of town tomorrow A.M.) I will try to advise what happens when I get time to work on it.

[killermrob83]

Found a few extra minutes this afternoon and went out to tackle the issue. Removed the airbag no problem. Cannot see the backside of the switches. Even tried looking through the access holes to the airbag mounting bolts on the back side of the steering wheel. I can bend a finger around from the airbag opening and feel the back side of the switches, but there is no room/clearance to remove the switch mounting screws. Am I correct in thinking that the steering wheel has to be removed to go any further? There is a plastic shroud (for lack of a better term) that encloses the back side of the steering wheel. It is a one piece deal that can only be removed after the wheel has been removed, at least that's how it appears to me. I unplugged the connectors and started chasing out the wiring, as I do not have a wiring diagram readily available. What I was able to determine was that the on/off switch works (continuity) quite easily when switching to the off position, but must be mashed down quite hard to get continuity when switching to the on position. One must keep in mind at this point that this is not your ordinary on/off switch, where there would only be continuity in the on position. This switch also supplies the power to the resume/set-accel/coast switch. Cannot see the back side of either switch, so wasn't able to figure out what is going on with the right side set of switches. It would be my guess that the same problem is occurring with those switches as well. I fully agree with Stale Trooper regarding crud getting into the switch because of its location. In fact, just repaired a set of power window switches which sit in a horizontal position of the driver's door arm rest in a '94 Grand Prix. Pulled the switches out of the armrest, disassembled them (yes, they can be taken apart if you're careful about it and the housings are not molded), hit the contact areas (full of dog hair, food, dirt, etc.) with contact cleaner, gently blew them out with compressed air, reassembled everything (after testing with a meter!), and they work like new. Not sure if the CV cruise control switches can be disassembled (snap fit housings or molded housings), but will address that issue once I can remove them. Does anyone agree that the steering wheel has to be removed for this particular year of CV? I thought about bending the plastic shroud, on the back side of the wheel, back far enough to gain the required access, but am afraid that I will wind up breaking that nearly 13 year old plastic that has spent its share of days in the sunshine. Thanks again for all of your input. Rob