HELP!! car starting to OVERHEAT...

[Firstymer]

On Thursday's morning heading to work after 3 miles driven I notice the temp. indicated light came on, strange, because the engine temp. gauge never work so for the temp light to come on grab my attention. As I continue to drive it went away then came back on then disappear. On my way home I notice it came on again then I saw white smoke coming from the engine. I pull over and inspect the engine and notice white smoke (look like steams) coming from driver-side of the radiator near air-box. I believe I see a crack by the upper radiator hose on the radiator housing. I assumed the coolant is leaking from that crack or in that area. I see a lot of moisture, look like coolant, in that same area. I examine the coolant bottle and the liquid amount was in the HOT line. Water pump show no leakage. Also, I believe when the engine overheat it starts to be slugglish when driving and rough idling when at stop. Could that be the engine rough idling is cause by engine overheating? since I change the fuel filter recently and cleaned the throttle body and IAC sensor cap. Should I replace the radiator or try sealing it first? I also thinking about replacing fans since my electric fan is believe only one working because I see it turn on when AC is on which I did to drive the rest of the way home; but the other one near radiator cap is not turning on when car heat up I assumed. Likewise, is the procedure tideous for removing and installing a new radiator? Please help. I will try to upload photo of crack soon! ---00' GP se v6 3.1L 128,500+ KM

[richtazz]

Regretfully, since you continued to drive it while overheating until it started to run rough, you most likely damaged the engine. You're most likely going to need to replace the head gaskets and intake gaskets. If somehow you got lucky and didn't hurt the engine, I would strongly suggest replacing the radiator, as sealants don't work on tank seam leaks.

[Firstymer]

How can I determine if head or intake gasket is damaged? What is the estimate to fix such repair?

[Firstymer]

Originally Posted by richtazz

Regretfully, since you continued to drive it while overheating until it started to run rough, you most likely damaged the engine. You're most likely going to need to replace the head gaskets and intake gaskets. If somehow you got lucky and didn't hurt the engine, I would strongly suggest replacing the radiator, as sealants don't work on tank seam leaks.

So yesturday I took the car to the auto repair shop on my way home from work and they conduct a leak pressure test. I was correct, the radiator has a crack or cracks near the upper radiator hose which causes coolant to leak out dramatically in turn causing engine to overheat. They claimed my heads are still good but they starting to knock. Total estimate for replacing radiator, radiator cap, and upper/lower hose =$604.00 WOW!!! is it possible for a DIY task? I upload a pic of the radiator crack.

[Firstymer]

Originally Posted by richtazz

Regretfully, since you continued to drive it while overheating until it started to run rough, you most likely damaged the engine. You're most likely going to need to replace the head gaskets and intake gaskets. If somehow you got lucky and didn't hurt the engine, I would strongly suggest replacing the radiator, as sealants don't work on tank seam leaks.

So yesterday I took the car to the auto repair shop on my way home from work and they conduct a leak pressure test. I was correct, the radiator has a crack or cracks near the upper radiator hose which causes coolant to leak out dramatically in turn causing engine to overheat. They claimed my heads are still good but they starting to knock. Total estimate for replacing radiator, radiator cap, and upper/lower hose =$604.00 WOW!!! is it possible for a DIY task? I upload a pic of the radiator crack.

[gonesouth]

Originally Posted by Firstymer

So yesterday I took the car to the auto repair shop on my way home from work and they conduct a leak pressure test. I was correct, the radiator has a crack or cracks near the upper radiator hose which causes coolant to leak out dramatically in turn causing engine to overheat. They claimed my heads are still good but they starting to knock. Total estimate for replacing radiator, radiator cap, and upper/lower hose =$604.00 WOW!!! is it possible for a DIY task? I upload a pic of the radiator crack.

Save your $604, you're going to need it.

Depending on your tools, mechanical abilities and confidence, radiator replacement can be a DIY job. I wouldn't worry about replacing the hoses until you know if the engine is ruined.

Here's the problem. The decision to drive the car to work again wasn't a good one. You have critically overheated this engine twice. If it's starting to knock, it's beyond intake and head gaskets now. You may have come close to seizing a bearing. In other words, the engine may likely need to be replaced.

Stop driving this car immediately.

From this point forward, I suggest trying to replace the radiator yourself. It's not a bad job. While you're at the auto parts store, get an oil filter and the recommended amount of oil. Probably 4-5 quarts. Overheating it twice, the oil has probably broken down and has got to come out. Also, look at the drained oil for traces of coolant.

If, by some lucky chance the engine is not damaged beyond repair, you're going to need that new radiator unless you decide to sell the car as is.

If the engine is gone, you're looking at the $1200-1500 replacement cost.

I wish you good luck.

[Firstymer]

Thanks for the tip! To my understanding the expert at the repair shop indicated I still have oil inside the engine at full level. I want to know if its feasible to replace the radiator without worry about the engine dropping because of the front brackets that's holding it into place. What is the procedure to replace the radiator and brand or part number I need? because a lot of nowadays radiator is built with plastic and core material of aluminum.

[tblake]

The dogbones can be removed without the engine falling. Just don't start the motor without them in there.

On the radiator, you may be able to fit one from a 2000 GTP which to my knowledge has a higher capacity, thus better cooling.

[gonesouth]

Originally Posted by Firstymer

Thanks for the tip! To my understanding the expert at the repair shop indicated I still have oil inside the engine at full level. I want to know if its feasible to replace the radiator without worry about the engine dropping because of the front brackets that's holding it into place. What is the procedure to replace the radiator and brand or part number I need? because a lot of nowadays radiator is built with plastic and core material of aluminum.

It's good that the oil is full. My concern is that the oil has been overheated twice. Personally, I'd get it out of there before attempting to start the car again. I'm looking at the situation if it were my car.

I have seen overheated engines that have cooled and were OK. That's the exception, not the rule. You may be OK. Let's hope so.

I agree with tblake. The top mounts knicknamed 'dog bones' will move out of the way easily.

If you need removal and install instructions, maybe someone that has the repair manual will chime in here. If not, maybe you can check your local auto parts store (Auto Zone, Advance, O'Reilly's, etc) for a repair manual. About $20-25. This way you can read and see things involved. If you don't feel comfortable, you can decide not to do it before you start.

It will involve draining the radiator, taking off the panel that holds the top of the radiator in place, loosening the upper and lower hose clamps and disconnecting the transmission cooling lines. You will have to disconnect the fan assembly. It bolts directly to the radiator. After that, the radiator basically lifts out. Assemble in reverse order.

The radiator can be bought at auto parts stores like the ones mentioned above. You're looking at about $230-250 for just the radiator.

Good luck.

[Firstymer]

I spoke to a sales associate at Advance Auto and explaining to him that the engine I have inside my car is actual say 3400 SFI on top mount; clearly GP does not come with 3400 engines so the prior owner before me had replace the original engine with this one currently. Now, I am unsure what engine it is which leaves me unclear what radiator to purchase. I do know the 3400 engine is 3.4L, V6 but I'm GUESSING its a Pontiac Grand AM GT engine or Monte Carlo, I do not know? I uploaded a photo of engine so I get some kind of direction....please help!!

[Firstymer]

Likewise, I am positive the vin reads 2000 GP v6 se 3.1L and that the gas tank is original because like I mention in previous thread its all dented up but not that bad. The battery is position next to the coolant bottle i.e. passenger side and airbox is on right-side (driver-side) of engine next to upper radiator hose. Hope the added info help!

[tblake]

It could be a 3100sft motor with a 3400 upper intake manifold. Either way, you could just get parts for a 3100. They should mostly interchange.

[Firstymer]

Originally Posted by tblake

It could be a 3100sft motor with a 3400 upper intake manifold. Either way, you could just get parts for a 3100. They should mostly interchange.

Thanks a lot tblake!!! I will purchase a radiator for a 2000 GP se 3.1 since the current one looks like the original. I just need additional info on how to remove and install a radiator. I know I must first disconnect neg. battery cable, then drain the coolant from plug screw at bottom, disconnect upper & lower radiator hoses, and then what? What is that line connected to the radiator under the radiator cap on the side of the battery? What other cables or lines I need to disconnect and where are they?

[tblake]

I've never had to replace one.

You will have tranny cooler lines, and the overflow tube. Other than that, I don't know for sure.

[richtazz]

There is also the wiring harness for the low-coolant sensor that will have to be unplugged. Other than that, Gonesouth's brief summary of what's involved is correct. A detailed rundown is way too lengthy to post here, so a repair manual is almost a requirement if you're going to try to do this and are a novice at car repair.